Wayneo

The specs on the board is 97% efficiency. Longevity is up to your vaping characteristics, batteries you choose, etc.

The DNA 250 cannot do it because it's buck only no boost.

@FnZ According to Evolv, their chips need a material with minimum coefficient of 0.0008 in order to control it in TC. See that second value in the blue box (TC Precision) with a value of 5 .......... that means it's almost impossible (higher values are better). If your question is more related to steam-engine wording you might pose that question to them

Somehow the 0.006 doesn't make sense, however, did you remember to 'upload to device' after this or any escribe change?

So you're running a 0.07 coil? Huh Glad to hear it's working for you? but what you've typed doesn't make sense. Vape on!

Here's an escribe tutorial video https://goo.gl/EWoUxj This IS the right place for questions, and the search also works. One of the features of these devices is that you do NOT need to lock the ohm's for temp control, except for a few minor cases.

I don't think settings themselves, but more likely the batteries, or a high soft cell cutoff value

Every mod starts at zero. Display is live If you wanna use temp control with your SS, sure you can use a 120 watt preheat, but it's still gonna start at zero.

With all that info, I'd start by using steam-engine, ohms law, and see if you're banging off the 6V output voltage limit,

Original wire profiles from steam-engine .......... none officially, but you can set and see that 'word' as one of your small display options.

Unlike when you floor the gas pedal, and immediately breaking the speed limit, or turning on your electric stove on high and it immediately glows bright red Display is 'live'. It's all good

Up to 600F or 300C. Try 'em out yourself for any juice. Different temps can mute, accentuate, or even burn certain flavors.

Lock mod (5 quick fire button clicks OR whatever number if you changed that. THEN hold 'fire' and 'up' button. That's a toggle for lock/unlock.

@MacVap Finally an official answer from @John The question musta gotten lost in all the excitement.

The displayed value is the 'cold ohms' value at 70F and will NOT change on your mod display like you imagine. Device Monitor will show you it's changing, or vaping in regular wattage mode will show it. Perfectly normal.

@EDMKEV Looks great. I think your Stabwood is from BDC like mine. What size battery is in it?

@Fabian9988 Yes, that liitle jump is Evolv's doing. Glad you got it sorted. @Lowbytes Other than the odd spelling error in your last post, I would never have guessed that you weren't fluid in English

Please let us know the results.

@Fabian9988 I applaud all your efforts, and if you will validate your VS is actually .007, then your Rebel value would also be correct. @Lowbytes No offense my good man, I was merely saying you could run with this ......... you know the old "Too many cooks can spoil the broth" saying, or something like that. We're all here to learn and assist each other. Here's the post I promised, and notice he used a straight 75.

Seems very high compared to the mods I own. Your VS was probably just populated from the values obtained from a batch, but you can test it using this method to validate, after setting it to 0 and then uploading. AA has not worked for me with the copper shorting tool since Feb 2016 on any 2xx series board, first going down to .006 followed by a ?. Now with the latest escribe v1.2 sp5.2, it goes down to .005 IIRC, without ever a ? Wondering what you'll look at here? Aren't your thoughts backwards here? You can bottom out the VS, but you cannot on the Rebel, meaning you're guaranteed a stronger connection on the Rebel. I'll defer to @Lowbytes who has the entire German community behind him, and even @LeeWB3 here, the creator of those 4 fine calibration videos. My last comment .......... a lower than actual value, or 0, is better than an incorrect high value

If your bedroom wall is still intact ......... I'm voting safe

So your Rebel has not been setup. Search the forum for giz_method mod resistance and hopefully you'll find it. Otherwise I'll find it and send you a link tomorrow. It'll take about 15 minutes tops to find and set (10 of 'em to make sure your coil is back at ambient temperature. Your still perfectly fine to use your mod. Mod resistance calibration (giz method) without pictures A coil will work, but the Test is best run with about a 4in. - 6in. piece of TC wire across an RDA build decks posts. (like a baseball shape, not a coil) In Escribe (mod tab), set Mod Resistance to 0. In wire profile, Power = 1 Temp = 0 / Preheat temp = 1 preheat Punch = 1 Preheat Time Limit = 0. Upload To Device ... attach deck with coil or wire to mod ...pulse (quick) fire to get mod to check cold ohms (if new coil question asked, answer yes) Run Atomizer Analyzer ... allow wire to cool back to room temperature (extremely important) & subtract the Cold Ohms from the Raw Ohms The difference will be the Mod Resistance..

Fire up escribe. For the MOD tab to appear - Options (menu bar) -> User Interface -> Manufacture Go to 'Mod' tab. What is the 'Mod Resistance' value for each mod?

Are you sure, or perhaps missing an extra '0' in there for mod resistance. On ALL my mods in use (7), I think my highest for mod resistance is .007 checked 2 different ways.

I also use Ti01, but only when I can get at the screws easily as mine tend to loosen quickly. Although I prefer SS430 for quicker ramp up, I'm thinking of sticking to 316 only because of availability in different gauges, and not having to remember what material type is in each atty. I find SS a cleaner taste or should I say tasteless. Well, that magic number, according to evolv IIRC is 470F, before 'bad' starts occurring.