Wayneo

I agree with @giz_60. I set mine at 75 watts & let the board do its job... After you see what's actually required, you can, if you wish, go back and lower the watts down to steady state TC vaping. Using my pic, it's just under 30 watts, so I'd put that somewhere around 40 for my pic. You should not lock ohms for your coil either, so the 'refinement' magic can work.

Forever burned into my memory. And it was due to Karloz that I 'sainted' VB for his calmness throughout the entire ordeal.

Hot damn @giz_60, you da man. I'm gonna do this myself on my new 250. So, just to be clear .... we have 3 values to work with .... Raw Ohms, Nominal ohms (kanthal and Temp). And you're way was to set mod resistance to zero, then subtract 'raw ohms' from 'nominal ohms (kanthal).' So we really only have the atty resistance not accounted for. I wonder ... how does Evolv expect anyone to do this accurately now?

Just did this to match the text above. That red line is power, notice the ramp, then the blip as I described. See how the green (temp) line matches with the blue straight resistance line. Bottom shows in seconds.

With my old tired eyes, I just can't look at skewed crappy cell phone shots. Windows Print ScreenSome use this process: Stolen from 2 of the finest on here: With Device Monitor showing you just hit the "prt sc" button on your computer.Open a Paint software program and click on "Paste".You can change size, orientation, and etc. in the Paint software.Save this to your computer.Attach the saved file to a post here. OR (if you press [ALT]+[PRT SCN], open MSPaint and paste [CTRL]+[V] you have a screen shot from any program, that you can save and upload)

@UKDTweak ....... Now that's gotta be the ultimate matchy matchy!

Yes, there has to be some resistance, and what you've decribed is perfectly normal. As dwcraig mentioned, AA has beeen busted for quite some time. A lower value, or zero, is better than a higher value for TC. Can you describe in more detail your TC issues, either in a new thread or an already existing thread so we can look at that independantly. For quickest easiest troubleshooting, a screen capture of the profile, a description of the coil, and a screen capture of device monitor with Temperature settings at a minimum. Proper Print screen, not a skewed moire filled fuzzy picture appreciated.

@inteks "...10F and 10C are not the same" gotcha. Actually there's no temp monitor at all, and it doesn't matter F or C. What we're really talking is coil resistance change (to prove TC, and not drop out), then resistance value based on the wire profile/curve/TCR value (that matches what we would call a set temperature). The mod is trying to get to your 'set' temp, without going over. As it's ramping up (on it's way to 75) and watching that coil resistance value change, the mod knows what power it needs to hit and maintain the desired/required coil resistance (basically your temp), so it'll drop power to try not go over, then blip that power back up to hit super close temp, then another drop .... down the power required to maintain the set temp. Some will notice the 'Karloz spike' usually on the first vape of a cold coil somewhere in the area of 2 to 5C. Can you do us 2 more screen shots, of the profile settings like you did before, along with a device monitor shot. (I personally would use 2 different profiles setup, independantly to make testing quicker, then an easier change between the two) Take a preliminary vape to warm the coil. screen shot 1. Preheat set 75, Punch 0 or 1. Take a preliminary vape to warm the coil. screen shot 2. Preheat set 75, Punch at 11. PS. IIRC you mentioned the coil was somewhere around ~.2 ohms. Can you describe it for us. Is it 1 or 2 coils? Is it a thin wire, or claptionized coil etc.? Spaced?

I don't think it's battery sag in this case. Your mod is working as designed. When you have your punch set at 11, the preheat works until you're within 10F of your set temperature and then stops. Yours is set at 5. So the 'preheat' cuts out way before that. Increase your punch to 11 and you'll see. Then, watch what is actually required to fire that coil and adjust lower if you wish, or let the board do it for ya.

Welcome aboard, and enjoy meng. @dwcraig1 - totally off topic, but is that your 'peanut brittle' I've been vaping?

TC is 'material' specific. Not coil, diameter, wire gauge, or anything else. If it's 316L and that's one of your materials ...... you're fine. You might need to change your profile settings due to the larger surface mass (more power needed) to heat those puppies up.

This is what I've found to be the numero uno, bueno (damn I miss Karloz) tip for Titanium. I use it on devices with easily exposed screws.

Can't you just go check what type of wire? Either way, both are safe to use in plain ole wattage/power mode. You should be more concerned about that sticking fire button, while still under LostVape's warranty. Good luck.

Excellent decision considering it's brand new.

No LED. No light. No worries.

What does this mean? YOU need to set the mod to the material type you have installed. Sure hope it was a quality supplier. Lotsa shady sellers. With SS being an alloy, the actual composition can change from order to order to supplier. <- That contributes to SS TC issues.

Welcome @flo_46 Why don't you return it to your place of purchase for a replacement? BTW, if the 'down' button makes the wattage go 'up', what does pressing the 'up' button do?

I got mine from unkamen. 28g. I find it very springy, so I always straighten it with a drill, then make a 3 simple twisted spaced coil. I believe I just used the djlsbvapes TCR (SS430: 0.00138) for the 'material'.

Hah, my SMY SDNA75 also lived a severe service life in the hands of my wife. I've rescued it and it's still in surprisingly good condition. I'm very surprised the rubberized finish still looks mint. My VT133 has the cheapest paint quality on the battery door and looks like a beater, but the body is fine. Luckily I have a spare door. They're all setup with the same materials and profile settings. I don't notice any difference at all between any of them. Mainly a SS430 or Ti vaper, lowest build around .1 usually. With the same coil build specs I'm finding 430 heats up twice as quick as 316 and Ti about 50% quicker than 430.

A 2 week old device, contact your place of purchase for repair first. They're probably more local than Evolv. Good luck.

By updating firmware/software do you raise the watt cap of the Dna 200? NO. Evolv doesn't play those Chinese games. Or is that a hardware upgrade? Yes. Eg. DNA250 shares many of the same but beefier components. 200=9v output voltage. 250=9.3v output voltage I have a DNA Duo (in the mail) and I'm wondering what the best 18650's are? Refer to Mooch's recommendations based on your vaping style. 28650's technically. Does anyone know if the Turnigy LiPo battery, it's the only one i could find, will fit inside of that device? Probably not. Many are similarly sized for the same mAh For the most part on reviews i have read i think it will but i don't know for sure. We don't know at all, never mentioned mod, or battery dimensions Thanks Yeah

This guy has posted his mods on here and 3D prints his stuff. https://goo.gl/i8MRyy All free .stl files on Thingverse. I'd just be careful with the material you use due to heat issues. I can only print in PLA which is not ideal. I'm in Ontario, Canada and many local libraries have 3D printers with PLA filament. Cost is 50 cents for each 15 minute print segment, and a 3 hour time limit. They only allow their filament. Good luck, and even if you don't like his stuff, a searc there brings up many more.

@Rain I guess when you checked right here, the shipping was also high? https://goo.gl/zlqXe1

@wiss2017 "lg he2 3000 mah" Maybe HG2? "my Therion came out as 22.2 watt hours and Triade at 33.3 watt hours." Where did you come up with these numbers? Are they from you running 'battery analyzer'. "Right now the Therion is 18.5 watt hours and the triade to 26.5 watt hours, know where near the calculated hours." These values look alot more realistic. I think your batteries and mod are fine.

Sure, take a 30c as long as it will fit within the enclosure