Dna 250c

[gizman]

On 2/9/2018 at 5:08 PM, Frogmod said:

It’s up on SW’s :-) I added some text to it, it’s only raised up .25mm

I don't see any of your full mods up on shapeways anymore Frogmod, what's going on?  I'm ready to ORDER!!!!

[DNA Papst]

My Paranormal 250C

 

Great Mod and replay is so genius!

[Juvenile43]

Where did u buy this? 

[sheerluckholmes]

I just order mine from steam island in the UK...  and I am in the US

 

[DNA Papst]

vor 3 Stunden schrieb Juvenile43:

Where did u buy this? 

its a pre sample

[Frogmod]

22 hours ago, gizman said:

Frogmod, what happened to your reference mods on Shapeways, the DNA 250C is finally out, so I go to order a print, and they are gone!

 

Was hoping you would post one to shapeways as a 30MM reference mod, but not as tall as the one for the MaxAmps 1850MaH, one normal height but able to accept 30MM and hold the MaxAmps 1300MaH 4S, let me know, was ready to order and now they are all gone =(

I’ll have it ready Monday had to do a few design changes.

[Frogmod]

22 hours ago, gizman said:

I don't see any of your full mods up on shapeways anymore Frogmod, what's going on?  I'm ready to ORDER!!!!

Monday it will be ready 

[Frogmod]

This one is ready https://www.shapeways.com/product/VLFHHEXJP/30mm-250c-referencecase

this mod was design for the battery in the discription, more mod cases coming soon

[retird]

DNA250 Color Data Sheet.....

https://downloads.evolvapor.com/dna250color.pdf

[gizman]

On 3/22/2018 at 2:56 PM, Frogmod said:

This one is ready https://www.shapeways.com/product/VLFHHEXJP/30mm-250c-referencecase

this mod was design for the battery in the discription, more mod cases coming soon

I'll post more later, battery on back order but grabbed a 1000MaH Turnigy 4S to tide me over until the maxamps gets here, replay is amazing! 

Edited April 9, 2018 by gizman
Auto correct misspelling corrections

[gizman]

On 3/22/2018 at 2:56 PM, Frogmod said:

This one is ready https://www.shapeways.com/product/VLFHHEXJP/30mm-250c-referencecase

this mod was design for the battery in the discription, more mod cases coming soon

Everything went together pretty good, some slight issues with the buttons, finding proper screws, etc, used a Cisco V2 510, it has a 2mm deep deck, so I had to shim it 1mm, all in all I am loving it so far. 

[Frogmod]

20 hours ago, gizman said:

Everything went together pretty good, some slight issues with the buttons, finding proper screws, etc, used a Cisco V2 510, it has a 2mm deep deck, so I had to shim it 1mm, all in all I am loving it so far. 

I’m glade you like it. What kind of issues did you have with the buttons, so That way I can change it in the model, when you said “finding proper screws” are you talking about the board screws?

[gizman]

1 hour ago, Frogmod said:

I’m glade you like it. What kind of issues did you have with the buttons, so That way I can change it in the model, when you said “finding proper screws” are you talking about the board screws?

Basically I need to trim down some of the bottom 3 buttons, when I tighten the board all the way down one or more of the bottom buttons are constantly pressed, pretty sure I can just sand/trim them down just a bit.  Right now I just loosened the bottom screw on the board and if when I pull the USB it pulls the board too tight I just hit one of the 3 buttons and it pushes the board back a bit and it's all good. Like I say, some minor adjustments and they should be fine. 

The Fire button, however (see picture), the top of it is in the mod further than the bottom, so it sits at kind of an angle.  Whey I push the top for the back it sits out perfectly, just after the first press there is no pressure at the top of the button and it just sits a little cocked. I may be able to fix that with some double-sided spongy tape between the top of the button and the board, it's a pretty minor thing and is more aesthetics and feel than functionality.

I had some self taping screws meant for plastic that I got with the last shapeways DNS 250 I made, they worked fine for the screwing the board down... the two pieces of the case, however, I didn't have as much luck with. 

The link provided was for Machine screws, and didn't have a thread count or length, so I wasn't sure what to get, and with Machine Screws you have to thread them, and I don't have a tap and die set for plastic or in the thread counts that were listed on the machine screws.

It would have been nice if the link took me to a screw I could order that I knew would work, but the link takes you to a page where you have to decide thread counts, lengths, etc before you could order anything and I just felt more comfortable going to a hardware store and finding something I knew was long enough and would hopefully work.   

I decided to go with some 1 1/4" #4-40 wood screws, I knew the head would be a little big on them, but they should work (and I could grind the heads to a slightly smaller shape and everything would fit).  In my anxiousness to get it together I tried one of the screws in one of the bottom holes and it went in fine, so I put on in the top and due to the extra material and me not taking the time to pre-drill all holes to appropriate diameters, I broke a screw in one of the top holes.  Tried drilling it out and broke the drill bit in it.  So yeah, some issues with screws, and now I need to at least reprint the back at some point.  Maybe we could collaborate on a modified design that will still work with the 1300 MaH MaxAmps whenever it gets here =)

All in all though, very, very happy.  Everything I've mentioned I can either fix or I caused myself (there may be something you could do with the fire button). 

I may have the first DNA 250C in Kansas City and that is priceless.

I can't thank you enough for how quickly you got it up, modified to my requests, with only minor modifications needed - Frogmod you rule!

Casey

[steamer861]

54 minutes ago, gizman said:

Basically I need to trim down some of the bottom 3 buttons, when I tighten the board all the way down one or more of the bottom buttons are constantly pressed, pretty sure I can just sand/trim them down just a bit.  Right now I just loosened the bottom screw on the board and if when I pull the USB it pulls the board too tight I just hit one of the 3 buttons and it pushes the board back a bit and it's all good. Like I say, some minor adjustments and they should be fine. 

The Fire button, however (see picture), the top of it is in the mod further than the bottom, so it sits at kind of an angle.  Whey I push the top for the back it sits out perfectly, just after the first press there is no pressure at the top of the button and it just sits a little cocked. I may be able to fix that with some double-sided spongy tape between the top of the button and the board, it's a pretty minor thing and is more aesthetics and feel than functionality.

I had some self taping screws meant for plastic that I got with the last shapeways DNS 250 I made, they worked fine for the screwing the board down... the two pieces of the case, however, I didn't have as much luck with. 

The link provided was for Machine screws, and didn't have a thread count or length, so I wasn't sure what to get, and with Machine Screws you have to thread them, and I don't have a tap and die set for plastic or in the thread counts that were listed on the machine screws.

It would have been nice if the link took me to a screw I could order that I knew would work, but the link takes you to a page where you have to decide thread counts, lengths, etc before you could order anything and I just felt more comfortable going to a hardware store and finding something I knew was long enough and would hopefully work.   

I decided to go with some 1 1/4" #4-40 wood screws, I knew the head would be a little big on them, but they should work (and I could grind the heads to a slightly smaller shape and everything would fit).  In my anxiousness to get it together I tried one of the screws in one of the bottom holes and it went in fine, so I put on in the top and due to the extra material and me not taking the time to pre-drill all holes to appropriate diameters, I broke a screw in one of the top holes.  Tried drilling it out and broke the drill bit in it.  So yeah, some issues with screws, and now I need to at least reprint the back at some point.  Maybe we could collaborate on a modified design that will still work with the 1300 MaH MaxAmps whenever it gets here =)

All in all though, very, very happy.  Everything I've mentioned I can either fix or I caused myself (there may be something you could do with the fire button). 

I may have the first DNA 250C in Kansas City and that is priceless.

I can't thank you enough for how quickly you got it up, modified to my requests, with only minor modifications needed - Frogmod you rule!

Casey

 

I had similar fitment issues with my buttons, Instead of sanding down the 3 bottom buttons I simply put a tiny spacer between the board & the case.

The fire button was much harder to fix   I left one alone & it works, could look better but, Hey.

I did fix one fire button, I sanded down the whole back side to get it sit flush but I ended up removing so much material, it was able to slide right thru the case

I fixed it with a tooth pick & some epoxy. It does sit nice now but it was a hassle

 

I used these case screws I got from Amazon   There a bit long but can be cut easy https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B1OD4ZQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I had some tiny self tapping screws for plastic to secure the board

BTW here's a pic of mine

Oh Ya Thanks Frogmod for uploading these

[gizman]

6 minutes ago, steamer861 said:

 

I had similar fitment issues with my buttons, Instead of sanding down the 3 bottom buttons I simply put a tiny spacer between the board & the case.

The fire button was much harder to fix   I left one alone & it works, could look better but, Hey.

I did fix one fire button, I sanded down the whole back side to get it sit flush but I ended up removing so much material, it was able to slide right thru the case

I fixed it with a tooth pick & some epoxy. It does sit nice now but it was a hassle

 

I used these case screws I got from Amazon   There a bit long but can be cut easy https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B1OD4ZQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I had some tiny self tapping screws for plastic to secure the board

BTW here's a pic of mine

Oh Ya Thanks Frogmod for uploading these

Beautiful! I am a Royals fan and seriously considered the blue, looks awesome!

Agreed, can't thank Frogmod enough, he was super easy to work with and made all the modifications I asked for, his cases are only going to get better, and mine works fine as is, keep up the good work Frogmod! 

[gizman]

1 hour ago, steamer861 said:

 

I had similar fitment issues with my buttons, Instead of sanding down the 3 bottom buttons I simply put a tiny spacer between the board & the case.

The fire button was much harder to fix   I left one alone & it works, could look better but, Hey.

I did fix one fire button, I sanded down the whole back side to get it sit flush but I ended up removing so much material, it was able to slide right thru the case

I fixed it with a tooth pick & some epoxy. It does sit nice now but it was a hassle

 

I used these case screws I got from Amazon   There a bit long but can be cut easy https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B1OD4ZQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I had some tiny self tapping screws for plastic to secure the board

BTW here's a pic of mine

Oh Ya Thanks Frogmod for uploading these

oh yeah, thank you steamer861 for the link to the screws, I'll pick up some of those when I reprint.  Did you pre drill prior, if so what size?  Did you tap it or just have the screw create it's own threads?

I like your idea of the toothpick, if the double sided tape doesn't resolve it I'll try that before I shave anything off the fire button, thank you so much for the reply and the help =)

Edited April 10, 2018 by gizman
Typo, have=shave

[steamer861]

49 minutes ago, gizman said:

oh yeah, thank you steamer861 for the link to the screws, I'll pick up some of those when I reprint.  Did you pre drill prior, if so what size?  Did you tap it or just have the screw create it's own threads?

I like your idea of the toothpick, if the double sided tape doesn't resolve it I'll try that before I shave anything off the fire button, thank you so much for the reply and the help =)

I didn't have to drill, the holes are all ready there. Mine were just full of plastic dust. I cleaned them out with a 1/16" drill bit

I just screwed them in, they form there own threads. I wouldn't go torquing them to hard, but mine worked nice with out stripping or any thing