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A semi-bad ground on your 510 will reek havoc on your temp control. I've seen this with others. My Opus normally works perfectly but I've had a few instances where it was just like "ha-ha I'm not working..." Thought it was device or something. I've read alot of temp control issues because of 510ground/case ground. If this continues for me I will investigate even further. I hope this possibly helps

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It doesn't fluctuate when in use but sometimes if i leave it for a while then fire it again, it might jump to a higher ohm then if i leave it again and fire another time it will be the first ohm reading.

Edit: like right now im using the same coil as last night reading at .36, right now its reading .39.

Edit 2: well then lol, took a hit and the coil snapped (from a short maybe), it was working fine for the pass two days though -.-

Edit 3: I put in a pre-built coil at 1.8ohm, but the device reads 2.02ish but its jumping up and down from there so i guess it is a bad connection. Mod surgery time :)

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YiHi does temperature control a little differently than we do, so for an identical setting, even running well they will be somewhat warmer. What they do is put in some power, then stop and wait until the wire has cooled back to the setting, then put in some more power. So whereas we're always dancing around the setpoint when running correctly and limiting (a few degrees above, a few degrees below, back and forth) they're more of a shot up above the setpoint and a slide back down to touching it, then shoot up again. 

But it shouldn't be staggeringly different. If you're having to run at 580 degrees to get good vapor I'd be very suspicious that there's something going awry in the 200 build somewhere. 

If you calculate what the coil should be (steam engine, perhaps) or measure it independently (milliohm meters are expensive but great for this) and then compare the results to atomizer analyzer that would go a long way towards telling you where the setup is being questionable. 

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You may need to experiment with wattage and temps to get the vape you're looking for. What I've sort of ad hoc observed is that attys with an intermediate connection (like with a separate replaceable coil assembly or loose adjustable pin) have a higher static resistance which, at least for me, has always resulted in a hotter vape. The mod expects that static part of the resistance to increase with power input and when it doesn't, the dynamic resistance of the coil has to increase by getting that much hotter before the mod "thinks" the coil is at the set point temp. But at a point, enough extra static resistance will also start to affect the mod's wattage calculations so I could also see a cooler vape as a result. In both cases, the mod is doing what it's supposed to, but less than perfect internal connections within the atty affect the mod's ability to accurately calculate temp and wattage at the coil. I'd suggest increasing the max wattage to at least around 35 or 40 and then adjusting the temp to suit. This should eliminate or at least reduce the static resistance issue from the wattage calculations. Adjust the temp to suit and then see where you're at. You can set a profile for each atty to deal with these types of differences.

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blueridgedog said:

My bad then.  I thought you were dealing with a Hana that omitted it, using the case as a ground.  



Can you tell me more about the problem on a Hana ? I find that i often need to lock the resistance at 0.010 - 0.015 higher than cold reading..  What mod resistance is used on Hana in general? I suppose it would lower the reading even more..


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I have been experimenting with alot of different brands and gauges of Nickel.

Tempered or Hardened nickel wire with cause some issues with fluctuation.

I am currently using 24G Crazy Wire (soft standard) Nickel on my drippers with FiberFreaks N2 wicking.

12 wraps around 3.5-4mm (depends on rba) dual comes out to 0.05 and it holds A LOT of juice and vapes wonderfully @ 460F / 85W in my Twisted Messes RBA @ 4mm on my DNA 200, some others wont take more than 3.5mm so check your clearances so you don't short it out.

This is not a battery conservative build but the clouds be a chuckin and the flavor is damn good.

You could probably Single coil it and cut power in half .... should come out around .08 -.09 and maybe 45-50 Watts, gonna have to see what i can get it at in a derringer single build.


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pdizzle said:

Im having the same issue with .15 Nickel Vapor Shark Atlantis coils...Have it set at 530f @29.3w. Just doesn't produce the same satisfying vape as on the rDNA 40



Is this with the Atlantis? I'm assuming so, but I know sometimes people use the coils in other tanks.

This isn't DNA200 specific, but I was talking with someone who's done a lot more temperature control testing than me, and learned that pressure fit 510 pins like on the Atlantis, can cause slight resistance fluctuations while vaping.

I later saw it mentioned on a live vape show, in a similar discussion. There seems to be a problem with sub ohm tanks with RBA coil head decks, and I assume could also be with the prebuilt coils. The more accurate the device is, I'm guessing the more susceptible it is.

On the Vape Team (I seem to recall episode 24) the guy (Jaquith or something like that) mentioned a trick to get sub tanks with pressure fit 510 pins to be much more stable, I believe it was a bit of sanding.

If you like vaping the Atlantis, it might be worth trying the temp control trick to get the pin to be more continuous and stable, if it's something easy that works well. I haven't done it and can't attest to what methods improve it or what tricks aren't worth the trouble, but I figured I would share in case it helps you with a topic to research into a bit.
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inspector said:

I have been wondering if the temp my DNA 200 is reading, is correct. It seems that 450F is a lot warmer on another mod(IPV3) then mine, both using the same tank and coil. How do i test to see if the temp is correct?



you cannot compare apples to oranges ..... the dna 200 does not use PWM and the others do so it's not a good comparison ... the other mod if you could monitor it would be reading temp fluctuations that are higher and spike above your set temp very often which is why you get the warmer vape, you will also start to taste cotton burning ( above 420?) if you run it dry unlike the dna 200 that stays at or below your set temp.

Using EScribe you can monitor and fine tune all the settings and see the curve and ramp up and get it exactly how you like to vape and then save that profile so you never have to do it again.
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Vape_Like_A_Boss said:

[QUOTE=pdizzle]Im having the same issue with .15 Nickel Vapor Shark Atlantis coils...Have it set at 530f @29.3w. Just doesn't produce the same satisfying vape as on the rDNA 40



Is this with the Atlantis? I'm assuming so, but I know sometimes people use the coils in other tanks.

This isn't DNA200 specific, but I was talking with someone who's done a lot more temperature control testing than me, and learned that pressure fit 510 pins like on the Atlantis, can cause slight resistance fluctuations while vaping.

I later saw it mentioned on a live vape show, in a similar discussion. There seems to be a problem with sub ohm tanks with RBA coil head decks, and I assume could also be with the prebuilt coils. The more accurate the device is, I'm guessing the more susceptible it is.

On the Vape Team (I seem to recall episode 24) the guy (Jaquith or something like that) mentioned a trick to get sub tanks with pressure fit 510 pins to be much more stable, I believe it was a bit of sanding.

If you like vaping the Atlantis, it might be worth trying the temp control trick to get the pin to be more continuous and stable, if it's something easy that works well. I haven't done it and can't attest to what methods improve it or what tricks aren't worth the trouble, but I figured I would share in case it helps you with a topic to research into a bit.[/QUOTE] I'm actually using them in a ehpro Morph. It's working a bit better now. Lots of vapor just not very warm at 530f lol
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