Dampmaskin

Sorry for the late answer, but I recently wrote a blog post where I try to explain the meaning and the reasoning behind the TC precision number in the Wire Wizard. http://blog.steam-engine.org/2017/04/qa-tc-precision/

Was the 0.6 Ohm figure for a single coil? If so, it makes sense that a dual coil will read close to 0.3 Ohm. In any case, the TCR will be unaffected.

Remember the first version of the Aerotank, the one that looked like this? If you screwed it too tightly on a 510, the center pin would short out inside the base of the tank. I learned that using a mech mod. Fun times.

The DNA 200 draws max 23A from the battery, IIRC.

Shared and bumped.

Tiger wire, is that round wire and ribbon twisted together? Looking at some pictures, I'm just thinking that the ribbon deforms too much and too unpredictably, and I probably can't model it with any accuracy to speak of. There is no TCR value per se in the CSV file. There is a "TCR in vaping range" value in the left hand box in the Wire Wizard, though. If you want to input a single TCR value in EScribe instead of uploading the CSV, you can use that one.

Thanks for the update. I'm eager to try it out. FYI, ATM there are six open pull requests for translations at https://github.com/Evolvapor/EScribeTranslations/pulls I hope you can find the time to have a look at them before the next version comes out.

Are you using US English language and localization settings in Windows, or a different language or country setting? Maybe you could post the settings file here, for others to test?

As far as I know, the 0.4 mm NiFe30 from StealthVape really is NiFe30. Rob got a huge batch of 0.4 mm NiFe30 custom manufactured. I am using it myself, and it works great for me. [quote]so the resistance has nothing to do with the TFR? so i dont even have to input a build? just pick the wire and download the tfr and it should be good?[/quote] As long as you use one single coil material, then yes, the build is irrelevant to the TCR. The build only affects the TCR if you mix two or more different materials in the same coil/build.

I am vaping on the 0.40 mm NiFe30 wire from StealthVape as we speak. In my DNA 200 mod, I use the CSV from the Wire Wizard for this wire. It works for me. The resistance in the calculator was tested by StealthVape and fine tuned accordingly. I do get slightly higher resistance when I build with the wire, but that could be my atomizer. In any case, the resistance does not affect the TFR curve or vice versa.

I am using this wire myself, with the Steam Engine TFR curve of course. It works for me. What kind of problems are you having?

Have you checked out EEVblog's soldering tutorials? They are great, and have lots of tips and tricks for soldering everything from heatsinks to battery cables to surface mounted components.

I can't answer your question, but personally I doubt it will happen. What you could do is to adjust the watts, fire the mod, and read the volts off of the screen. Then you adjust up or down depending on what voltage you want. Repeat until you're where you want to be. Or fire the mod, read the resistance, plug it into some ohm's law calculator together with your prefered voltage, to figure out what the power setting needs to be. What I'll recommend is to simply get used to adjusting the power. You'll become comfortable with it in no time, and I promise you, you won't regret it.

Here.

I fully agree. Also, because I adjust the temperature more often than I adjust the power, +1 to the option of switching them around in the interface.

Try using any other browser than Internet Explorer. For example Google Chrome.

There are a few pending pull requests at GitHub at the moment.

I tried twisting 28ga Kanthal with 28ga Ni200. It tasted terrible. I don't know why, but I'm guessing it was because I twisted it too tightly so the Ni200 stretched and developed hotspots. Also, the Kanthal didn't have any heat flux to speak of; the Ni200 did all the work. Then I tried claptoning 30ga Ni200 around some 26-ish gauge Kanhtal. Again, the current mostly flowed through the Ni200, leading to poor performance. I've since learnt that you should make sure most of the heat is produced in the core of the clapton. I did this before I made the Wire Wizard, so I had no idea what I was doing at the time. I haven't gotten around to experimenting much with hybrid coils since. Yes, I'm aware that's kind of ironic considering how much time I've spent making a tool for calculating them...

Yeah I know, it's my page. If you find the TCR For R41, I can add it to the list.

Looks like Rene 41 has 9+% Molybdenum and 10+% Cobalt in it. I'm no expert, but from what I've heard, I'm not sure if it's safe to have any of those in contact with your vapor. But in any case it seems to have some popularity. I'll see what I can find out about it. Update: I can't seem to find a TCR for it anywhere.

On a screen with just one bitplane and such a low resolution, it is not feasible to do this sort of adjustment in software, because of aliasing. You will have to physically straighten the screen, live with it as it is, or return the mod to Wismec.

I wonder if it measures the capacitance of the coil with e-liquid as a dielectric, and detects that the liquid is gone by the capacitance suddenly dropping. If that is the case, maybe it's just a firmware upgrade away for us DNA 200 users?

The Asolo you mean? Yes, I remember they claimed all sorts of stuff. Making claims is the easy part. I have yet to see a good explanation of what this mod actually does. Maybe I haven't been looking hard enough.

There's no option for that in the WW yet. Model a single coil, and halve the resulting resistance in your head. The temperature factors will be unaffected.

Could be. It's probably a good insulator. Try to run case analyzer without the skin, and then again with the skin. Compare the numbers.