Azzitude

The 75c themes require some rework for use with the 250c, when 250c's start getting out there you will start seeing themes show up

Reference mods are not for sale

The Cubis coils BF 316SS coils won't work in SS316 or SS316L modes for crap, But they DO work albeit @580F in SS304 Very Well on the DNA200 40W 580F 200 Ramp @ 2 sec Hits Temp very fast and holds steady using about 31w in the end

LG HE2's no problems at all

I just got 23g NiFe48 (using steam engine Custom CSV @.60Dia file attached) 6 wraps spaced dual coming in @.06 and 90W @ 410F and the flavor is awesome, great cloud also on my V2 Mutation full Air. please note that this is Zivipf NiFe48 available @ Zivipf.com DNA200-Nifethal_52_(Alloy52)-SteamEngine.zip

1500mah Lipo 3 cell ..... 1500x3=4500mah

dual 24g Ni200 8 wrap spaced coils .04 works well

open device monitor and hit record -save filename- hit the mod a few times with the boxes checked in the picture And see if the Temp (red) is moving to the set temp or not .... screen shot it and post it here, attach the saved file which should be a .csv file

Never dry fire Nickel

you say 100W but in TC it's only for a second and then the mod reduces power to maintain your temp setting. Mine is set at 100 but drops to 45-50 to maintain temp, so I ran the BA@50W

VT200's (not the hiCigar) have issues ... they look pretty but you need to rewire them with better wire and solder joints

so all MS keyboards? are you running the MS Software for those also? .... if so, try killing it and see what happens

I spoke to Ari, the author of the file about sharing it, and he felt it was better you get it directly from the source so he can provide support and updates for future escribe versions. I will respect his wishes and not share it here. You are welcome to join the Facebook group "Dna200 modders", there you will easily find the posts from Ari containing the settings file and support for it.[/QUOTE] Why not contact Hcigar and get their file after all they made the device. Ari's file was modified by Ari thus different than Hcigar's file. Go to the source, or at least that is my take on it. Good luck.[/QUOTE] That would of course be the ideal solution, if HCigar had bothered with calibrating the device from the start, which they have not. They ship it with evolv defaults.[/QUOTE] that is all well and good except not all vt200's are the same, each battery for instance is not identical and the import you get may not be ideal for your battery .....using evolv defaults you get the experience tuning your own device using the analyzer's in escribe and building your own profile ..... a lot quicker than waiting on someone else to do it

The dna 200 is more accurate than the dna 40 is .... what you are seeing is normal

I haven't TESTED the fuse as such, but visually inspected it and it looks fine. Plus I have never reversed polarity or caused reason for the fuse to go-but I agree, seeing as my soldering skills are not what they used to be, I will just have to wait out for the battery. I have run tests in Escribe, and it DOES fire, albeit at 4.5 watts max-any higher I get a battery or ohm error. I believe this is due to my soldering-as the battery completely failed when I removed it to test another battery, and re attached it, so I am sure that it was my soldering that is causing not enough power to be able to be drawn. It shows up in escribe as charged and such-like there is a connection, but I believe it to be a very weak connection. I hope its not the fuse anyway-I used (I forget due to my memory) part of escribe, where you install firmware, name the device, and it test fires to make sure everything is OK. That passed as normal-which I why I believe the fuse to be OK-surely it would not fire if there was a fuse problem? Anyway, 2-3 1/2 weeks and I will know for sure if it will work, or is garbage. If it is the fuse-what can I do? If it is that I will probably just get another DNA200 from the UK, but I will ensure I test the hotcig with the correct battery, as I believe it MAY work, as its odd it stopped the exact moment I took the battery out, and soldered it back in. Surely that has to be the answer?[/QUOTE] Less is good .....adding alot of solder will not make it better.... I would desolder it and tin the wire and just melt it to the pad .... too much heat on the pad will cause it to detach from the board