Vape_Like_A_Boss

If it's doing what is discussed in the first post and this other post that was a quote from around the forum, then it's working pretty much the way that Android kernels control charging in an android powered smartphone, at least in HTC models that I'm most familiar with. They charge to 100% and then bring the power back down to 97 to 98% and rotate a trickle charge from that point. It's allows for better longterm conditioning of the battery than charging to 100 and holding the power there, because that would zap the lithium batteries much faster.

Did you disable the MTL by unchecking the checkbox for "enable" in escribe to force the MTL profile with the .25 coil? I'm wondering if that's what's throwing off the resistance due to a bug or it just happens to be that coil or the way it's making contact at the pin. I'm curious as I've been wondering about disabling the MTL setting so there's only one profile, although I don't really have any need for it, just trying to figure out how the system works. And I figured I throw it out there to help define the exact settings for where the issue is. But that's only the case if the post about not trying MTL above was still the case when you made this later post.

In case other people see this about the mod not coming with pods, make sure you shop around. I almost bought a device with the mod only, was in the checkout process when I decided to check for other retailers. Sure enough, Vape Royalty sells the starter kit with 2 pods, so I ended up buying it from them for the same price I was paying the other place for the mod with no pods. I'm sure there will be a lot of retailers selling the mod only because that increases their margin, but there will also be many selling a kit with pods, so shop around.

The Evolv DNA boards and their chargers are usually alright to charge internally. While you see advice against internal charging a lot online and in the community, most of that is because unfortunately not everyone has an Evolv DNA chip in their mod. Evolv put a lot into developing the internal balance charging for multiple batteries, and I believe they were the first to do it. Unless something's recently changed that I missed, it's the board you want to have if you're going to be charging internally. So the DNA board you have is one of the only boards (or "chips") that I'd feel comfortable saying charge them internally and you'll be fine. It's been tested to be truly successful balance charging via USB. As long as lost vape hasn't modified something (and I don't think they have, I'm using a paranormal now, looks like Evolv USB port location.) you'll be fine charging internally via USB, although I'd use the same safety precautions as charging batteries in anything else.

If you've got some room in the box and can make it work, I really suggest using micro-deans or something like the XT60 or XT90 connectors for the battery. If you use connectors, you can open your mod, grab the battery and plug it into a LiPo charger. Or if you're ever in a situation where you need more power, you can keep on the lookout for a good deal on a spare battery, and just swap it when it gets low. With a battery the size of yours, I'd definitely think a LiPo charger would be handy, with my older charger at a fairly low "C" rating for the battery can handle, I think I charge my 2000 mah LiPo in about 40 minutes. With a battery with lots of mah like you're looking at, that 1 amp charge time from USB, and a LiPo at 4 to 8 amps or so, there will be a big difference in charging, plus the ability to swap batteries when you get more than one, or replace your daily driver and keep the mediocre one as a spare.

On a 2000 mah maxamps lipo, 22.2 watt/hours I'm getting nearly two days normal vape time while I'm piddling with work on the side (I vape for my career, I only work to pay the bills ) on 80 watts kanthal, a day and a half vaping a good bit. And I'm an insomniac who doesn't sleep much. I have a LiPo charger so sometimes I'll cut it closer than I normally would and not charge it at 45- 50% the first night and go on through the second day.

Is that a VT200 box? I think I'm starting to see a pattern maybe.

These mods were notorious for blowing boards. Seeing "good solder" doesn't mean that there is not a short somewhere. It could be cold solder joints that appear ok on the exterior preventing a proper connection, or problems the board experienced prior to you receiving it, or a number of other factors. If you will send your mod to Evolv they can diagnose it and give you a good answer. But those of who have been keeping an eye on these chips from very early on can tell you that while a bad board is possible, you need more than a mod known for poor construction, materials, and build quality to make such a determination. With the 510 connection issues seen in the mod you have, it wouldn't surprise me if the short occurred inside the 510 or due to grounding.

I show 1.0.33 after installing that escribe only update, so I'm thinking you're probably good to go.

Just to add on this thought, maybe to get some more data TomDunahoo could temporarily set the screen fields to show board temperature and room temperature, both when it's working normal from room temp and also in the conditions it's getting whacky, when the mods been run really hard and temps are higher. I was thinking if you could check those temps during both conditions, it might show a correlation with temperature, and maybe be a touch helpful in determining if case analyzer makes any difference if it happens often enough to note the before/after results and see a pattern.

I'd love to see something DNA 200 focused like varitube did with the beginners kit, even if it uses a 3D printed faceplate, it would help a lot of "not quite modders" get their feet wet so to speak. You could use your box plus the faceplate and mounts but include instructions, wire, and connectors, and they could just order the battery and get to assembling. Basically all they'd need is the lipo, if you want to avoid shipping and supporting lipo batteries.

[QUOTE=laadam][QUOTE=Nach][QUOTE=James]*** 2015-09-03 EScribe *** This is a minor bug fix release for EScribe. It features: (1) a fix for Device Monitor flashing on some computers with Windows XP, (2) longer timeouts, for fewer error messages when using VirtualBox/Parallels on a Mac, and (3) ECigStats 1.1, which adds support for localization (Chinese and Norwegian, initially) [/QUOTE] Guys, just read the notes as you click the download links! [/QUOTE] What are referring to?[/QUOTE] Just to clarify, it was only the EScribe PC Software (PC Interface) that was updated, the firmware on the mod didn't change at all. Just the windows software version changed and was updated.

These mods have some serious problems. I actually was watching a review when I ran across this thread. The 510 connectors on some of these mods are glued in.It seems from the model in the review from what I can tell, that it was designed with no way to mount a 510 other than glue. It wouldn't surprise me if there's shorting issues with some of these mods. There's also a 510 sitting right over the board that's loose and glued in, and juice leaking around the 510 if the glue isn't a complete seal could be a problem. This isn't due to Evolv's board, these problems I mentioned are all on the manufacturer. Although they have "Powered By Evolv" in huge letters on the box, so Evolv may want to make sure that glud 510 is a unique problem to one mod and not designed and produced that way. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vUqeBqyvQ2w

I have shaky hands, while I'm fairly good at soldering other than that, its a pretty good handicap to bring my level of "can do" right back down. The Xacto third hand type clamp is a life saver for me with the exact situation you described, because I can keep constant pressure against the tinned wire and tab while i solder it, without worrying about a shake causing a cold solder bubble or something.

I think making it full scale would allow for a huge lipo in the handle. I say make it full size, and use a gun rack to mount it across the back windshield of your truck, or behind the front seat of a car, police style. If you have a family they might not appreciate sitting in a police cage when they have to ride in the back seat, but it would totally be worth it.

I had to deal with Vapor Shark support on an rDNA 40, and it was the daughter board. They did a good job, I dealt with "Victor" who answered my support ticket. If it's the daughter board, I'm thinking maybe a connection on one of the two charging circuits got warm the first time and lost solid connection, and the other circuit is working. I didn't know that if one failed the other would charge, so this is strictly speculation, or it could be it goes over to the factory charge circuit as a failsafe. The only thing I can think of besides that is if you updated the firmware or something, or reset the settings, and it reset the charging rate in escribe, if that's possible with the shark. I don't have a shark 200 and don't know if it's the same charge rate settings. You can go to device monitor in escribe and click "Diagnostic" to get a menu that says set charge current, and choose 2 amps or 2.1 amps and see what you get.

Is this with the Atlantis? I'm assuming so, but I know sometimes people use the coils in other tanks. This isn't DNA200 specific, but I was talking with someone who's done a lot more temperature control testing than me, and learned that pressure fit 510 pins like on the Atlantis, can cause slight resistance fluctuations while vaping. I later saw it mentioned on a live vape show, in a similar discussion. There seems to be a problem with sub ohm tanks with RBA coil head decks, and I assume could also be with the prebuilt coils. The more accurate the device is, I'm guessing the more susceptible it is. On the Vape Team (I seem to recall episode 24) the guy (Jaquith or something like that) mentioned a trick to get sub tanks with pressure fit 510 pins to be much more stable, I believe it was a bit of sanding. If you like vaping the Atlantis, it might be worth trying the temp control trick to get the pin to be more continuous and stable, if it's something easy that works well. I haven't done it and can't attest to what methods improve it or what tricks aren't worth the trouble, but I figured I would share in case it helps you with a topic to research into a bit.

That firmware was I believe right before the change to allow users to customize battery capacity. It was first set up in the firmware for the beta units which all had the same size battery, and when chips started being sold in the early adopters program they updated the firmware to be compatible with whatever battery was used. I bet updating your firmware will resolve a lot of the issues you've mentioned.

I would still give Opus a heads up that this happened with a new mod he purchased, and also attach that screenshot to the email so it will be dated. That way if problems with the battery show up in a few weeks, it's documented with a date stamp that it happened when he got it, and isn't a case of arriving perfect and user damaging it later. Letting them know about it is the only way they can know to start watching for problems like that, or have leverage with the battery distributor if they need it.

If it's a desktop, sometimes they will have some USB charge ports at higher current on certain USB ports but not all of them, so try both the front and back of the computer, if that's possible. If it's a laptop with ports in 2 places, try them. My laptop was "high end" a couple years ago, still specs awesome, but only charges at .5 amps on all the USB built in boards. You can get a USB hub, like a 4 port or 7 port USB hub, with external power. It will connect to USB and also have a power adapter that plugs into a regular 110 outlet (If you're in the USA, wall outlet otherwise lol) in the wall or surge protector. If your computer has a custom motherboard like an Asus or Gigabyte, the motherboard software may have something like "EZ Charge" or "Rapid Charge" and you can enable it there, for most computers though it's just try another port or get a powered USB hub, or USB PCI add on cards may provide the current needed. Here's an example of the powered hub, I haven't used this brand, but have used Belkin and another one I can't remember the brand http://www.amazon.com/Protronix-Port-USB-Power-Adapter/dp/B00REX6DRK/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1441308084&sr=1-3&keywords=powered+USB+hub I think your estimation of around 8 to 9 hours is pretty spot on, and a spare battery and LiPo charger is definitely my preferred method. But I've been using LiPo's a long time and understand people fearing them who haven't used them.

In device monitor, I believe is where it is. Make sure the charge current is set to 1 amp. If it's set to 1 amp already, you may need to get a different charging device, lot of chargers and a lot of computers output .5 amps, so it could just be that you need to find another plug. Once it's charging correctly, it will work incredibly well, like set at 1 amp it will show it's charging at .98 .99 something like that. If you haven't upgraded the firmware yet, it's possible that's where your battery life is going, but it should be much better, at least in Kanthal mode. I haven't run temp control all the way down and paid attention, because I usually charge my battery way before that, but I have with Kanthal at 80 watts. I have a 2000 mah LiPo which is 22.2 watt/hrs and it's giving me nearly two days at 80 watts and .16 dual claptons. And if I'm chain vaping a lot and dry burning or building coils and firing high, it's still well into my second day. In device monitor you can change the setting from maximize battery life to maximize puffs, which allows you to charge the LiPo pack all the way, the maximize battery life option means lifespan of the battery over time, and it charges the pack to a lower voltage as "full" in order to reduce stress on the battery. Also make sure your watt/hours next to that same option is also put into the box. There's a calculator for you to input a few fields and it will give you the watt/hours, or you can do a battery analyzer test to truly get exactly your battery's watt/hours. I don't know that Hana's mods have an easily accessible, pluggable LiPo battery, but if they do, you could run a LiPo charger, and charge your battery from empty to full in like ~ 15 or 20 minutes in a pinch. I know that's not something you're looking for now, but in the future it might be something to consider or an option to check for when you get another mod down the road. For what it's worth, I've never had to run in stealth mode or anything to get a day and a half or 2 days off of my battery in Kanthal mode. I know that's not specific to temp control and you're a temp control user, but I can only share my personal experience. Let me know if I missed any questions or you need more help with the stuff I told you to check.

I'm sure the battery matters, and a cheaper battery may have a little more swelling problems, but I have a MaxAmps 2000 mah 3S LiPo, and I usually charge my battery with my Hyperion EOS 0606i at the higher rates the charger will do. So even charging my battery regularly in 15 to 30 minutes, it doesn't get very warm and in 2 months I haven't had any swelling that's measurable. I also have some of the same packs from 2008 that I haven't disposed of yet. It's very minor swelling, the dimension change is that the sides, which would be the edges of the cells not the two flat sides, are slightly reounded where before they were nearly "right angle" square and straight. I know it's not the same exact battery, but since I haven't seen inside the case and what clearance is allowed, I wanted to note where i've seen swelling. It's been about the same in just about every lipo pack I've owned (15 packs or so, most were larger MaH and very high discharge for racing or crawling RC's). I'd want to make sure there's some room for the pack to expand, but in my experience with pulling 30 amps as my all day vape and then charging the battery almost exclusively on a LiPo balance charger in 30 minutes, the swelling has been less than expected. I do believe manufacturers should ALWAYS err on the safe side, and a big part of my support of LiPo's is recommending that people buy mods that may not be the cheapest but are safe and dependable.

I used this post, and I'm so thankful for it. I'm not even close to a photoshop "average user" skill level, and even for a noob, this zip made it easy. I googled a couple of things I wondered about while editing, and it was easy as pie to do my custom screens. Had dwaindablane not made this post, I probably wouldn't have gotten to see how easy it is to make these screens, so I really appreciate taking the time to set up that second post for us.

I'm using a Hyperion balance charger I already had for my RC LiPo's, once you get a LiPo charger and replacement batteries, you should be really happy with it. I don't swap batteries, although I have a spare. It usually takes 15 - 25 minutes to charge my 2000 mah battery, depending on how much charge it has when I plug it up. For me, being able to charge a huge battery in 20 minutes made me not want to bother with spending a few hours to charge 18650s, or swapping batteries, etc. I can't recommend my battery charger model because it's overkill for vaping, but I already had it. But LiPo chargers are so inexpensive these days compared to when I started using LiPos back in 2008. I would advise being more careful when charging these batteries, for example don't charge them under your pillow while you sleep, on your nightstand, in a hay barn, etc.

I'm working on a design for a motorcycle battery in a backpack. I've been considering it since way before the DNA 200 but I love the chip so much, I decided it would be perfect for the BaxMod or whatever I call it lol.