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Azzitude

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Everything posted by Azzitude

  1. The 75c themes require some rework for use with the 250c, when 250c's start getting out there you will start seeing themes show up
  2. The Cubis coils BF 316SS coils won't work in SS316 or SS316L modes for crap, But they DO work albeit @580F in SS304 Very Well on the DNA200 40W 580F 200 Ramp @ 2 sec Hits Temp very fast and holds steady using about 31w in the end
  3. I just got 23g NiFe48 (using steam engine Custom CSV @.60Dia file attached) 6 wraps spaced dual coming in @.06 and 90W @ 410F and the flavor is awesome, great cloud also on my V2 Mutation full Air. please note that this is Zivipf NiFe48 available @ Zivipf.com DNA200-Nifethal_52_(Alloy52)-SteamEngine.zip
  4. 1500mah Lipo 3 cell ..... 1500x3=4500mah
  5. open device monitor and hit record -save filename- hit the mod a few times with the boxes checked in the picture And see if the Temp (red) is moving to the set temp or not .... screen shot it and post it here, attach the saved file which should be a .csv file
  6. you say 100W but in TC it's only for a second and then the mod reduces power to maintain your temp setting. Mine is set at 100 but drops to 45-50 to maintain temp, so I ran the BA@50W
  7. VT200's (not the hiCigar) have issues ... they look pretty but you need to rewire them with better wire and solder joints
  8. so all MS keyboards? are you running the MS Software for those also? .... if so, try killing it and see what happens
  9. I spoke to Ari, the author of the file about sharing it, and he felt it was better you get it directly from the source so he can provide support and updates for future escribe versions. I will respect his wishes and not share it here. You are welcome to join the Facebook group "Dna200 modders", there you will easily find the posts from Ari containing the settings file and support for it.[/QUOTE] Why not contact Hcigar and get their file after all they made the device. Ari's file was modified by Ari thus different than Hcigar's file. Go to the source, or at least that is my take on it. Good luck.[/QUOTE] That would of course be the ideal solution, if HCigar had bothered with calibrating the device from the start, which they have not. They ship it with evolv defaults.[/QUOTE] that is all well and good except not all vt200's are the same, each battery for instance is not identical and the import you get may not be ideal for your battery .....using evolv defaults you get the experience tuning your own device using the analyzer's in escribe and building your own profile ..... a lot quicker than waiting on someone else to do it
  10. The dna 200 is more accurate than the dna 40 is .... what you are seeing is normal
  11. I haven't TESTED the fuse as such, but visually inspected it and it looks fine. Plus I have never reversed polarity or caused reason for the fuse to go-but I agree, seeing as my soldering skills are not what they used to be, I will just have to wait out for the battery. I have run tests in Escribe, and it DOES fire, albeit at 4.5 watts max-any higher I get a battery or ohm error. I believe this is due to my soldering-as the battery completely failed when I removed it to test another battery, and re attached it, so I am sure that it was my soldering that is causing not enough power to be able to be drawn. It shows up in escribe as charged and such-like there is a connection, but I believe it to be a very weak connection. I hope its not the fuse anyway-I used (I forget due to my memory) part of escribe, where you install firmware, name the device, and it test fires to make sure everything is OK. That passed as normal-which I why I believe the fuse to be OK-surely it would not fire if there was a fuse problem? Anyway, 2-3 1/2 weeks and I will know for sure if it will work, or is garbage. If it is the fuse-what can I do? If it is that I will probably just get another DNA200 from the UK, but I will ensure I test the hotcig with the correct battery, as I believe it MAY work, as its odd it stopped the exact moment I took the battery out, and soldered it back in. Surely that has to be the answer?[/QUOTE] Less is good .....adding alot of solder will not make it better.... I would desolder it and tin the wire and just melt it to the pad .... too much heat on the pad will cause it to detach from the board
  12. back in the day we would use " Fusible Link Wire" inline ..... just a thought as i have no idea what the amp limits were on them .....they were used in 12v something like this maybe? http://www.awcwire.com/part.aspx?partname=j156-awg14
  13. here is the problem I think, UNDER MOD - reduce that 25% to say 2% and see if that does the trick
  14. send me a few and i will test them out for ya
  15. I have never had the TSA ask me to turn something off .... they have asked me to turn things on to verify that they work as intended tho
  16. you cannot compare apples to oranges ..... the dna 200 does not use PWM and the others do so it's not a good comparison ... the other mod if you could monitor it would be reading temp fluctuations that are higher and spike above your set temp very often which is why you get the warmer vape, you will also start to taste cotton burning ( above 420?) if you run it dry unlike the dna 200 that stays at or below your set temp. Using EScribe you can monitor and fine tune all the settings and see the curve and ramp up and get it exactly how you like to vape and then save that profile so you never have to do it again.
  17. I have been experimenting with alot of different brands and gauges of Nickel. Tempered or Hardened nickel wire with cause some issues with fluctuation. I am currently using 24G Crazy Wire (soft standard) Nickel on my drippers with FiberFreaks N2 wicking. 12 wraps around 3.5-4mm (depends on rba) dual comes out to 0.05 and it holds A LOT of juice and vapes wonderfully @ 460F / 85W in my Twisted Messes RBA @ 4mm on my DNA 200, some others wont take more than 3.5mm so check your clearances so you don't short it out. This is not a battery conservative build but the clouds be a chuckin and the flavor is damn good. You could probably Single coil it and cut power in half .... should come out around .08 -.09 and maybe 45-50 Watts, gonna have to see what i can get it at in a derringer single build.
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