Reuleaux by Wismec

[Jaquith]

VapingBad said:

[QUOTE=ChunkyButt200][QUOTE=VapingBad]It only needs 2 balance wires, 4 is better but if they take 0 & 3 from the battery pads, need better photos, but you would expect to see a thin wire from each battery pad to the nearest balance pad and the 2 centre balance pads connected to the battery cradle.  I suspect that is what they have done plus taking the negative from the cradle to one of the screw points and common grounding to the chassis, but it is all conjecture from the photos.

draw me up a diagram kid. im pickin up what yer layin down, but  a diagram would make my night. thanks.[/QUOTE]

Not very good, just lashed up in M$paint


This is not a recommendation, but it could be how the Reueaux is wired, just saying don't shot the messenger.[/QUOTE]
In your 'drawing' for a properly wired balancer you'd take the 3rd negative off your 'ground.' Look at my LiPo wiring schematic I posted, it's correct.

My Reuleaux reads ALL three batteries correctly and separately. I mean wow run the Device Monitor and select cells 1,2 & 3; example:
  
raw test file http://www.filedropper.com/volt

[VapingBad]

Jaquith said:

[QUOTE=VapingBad][QUOTE=ChunkyButt200][QUOTE=VapingBad]It only needs 2 balance wires, 4 is better but if they take 0 & 3 from the battery pads, need better photos, but you would expect to see a thin wire from each battery pad to the nearest balance pad and the 2 centre balance pads connected to the battery cradle.  I suspect that is what they have done plus taking the negative from the cradle to one of the screw points and common grounding to the chassis, but it is all conjecture from the photos.

draw me up a diagram kid. im pickin up what yer layin down, but  a diagram would make my night. thanks.[/QUOTE]

Not very good, just lashed up in M$paint


This is not a recommendation, but it could be how the Reueaux is wired, just saying don't shot the messenger.[/QUOTE]
In your 'drawing' you'd take the 3rd negative off your 'ground.'
[/QUOTE]
I don't follow there are only 2 negatives the negative pad which is shown grounded and the negative balance connection shown connected to the negative pad.  No extra wiring needed to complete the circuits all 4 balance connections are connected.

[Jaquith]

VapingBad said:

[QUOTE=Jaquith][QUOTE=VapingBad][QUOTE=ChunkyButt200][QUOTE=VapingBad]It only needs 2 balance wires, 4 is better but if they take 0 & 3 from the battery pads, need better photos, but you would expect to see a thin wire from each battery pad to the nearest balance pad and the 2 centre balance pads connected to the battery cradle.  I suspect that is what they have done plus taking the negative from the cradle to one of the screw points and common grounding to the chassis, but it is all conjecture from the photos.

draw me up a diagram kid. im pickin up what yer layin down, but  a diagram would make my night. thanks.[/QUOTE]

Not very good, just lashed up in M$paint
 

This is not a recommendation, but it could be how the Reueaux is wired, just saying don't shot the messenger.[/QUOTE]
In your 'drawing' you'd take the 3rd negative off your 'ground.'
[/QUOTE]
I don't follow there are only 2 negatives the negative pad which is shown grounded and the negative balance connection shown connected to the negative pad.  No extra wiring needed to complete the circuits all 4 balance connections are connected.[/QUOTE]

I don't mean to be rude, but there's (1) positive AND (3) negatives! On the guy's drawing he shows a ground; he's missing aka FORGOT a wire. 

Look at this properly configured 3S:
   

[VapingBad]

They are not "negative" Jaquith, well the lowest one is, but the other taps are at the voltages between the cells so the outside 2 are the same voltage as the main battery leads.  So for a balanced 3S @ 12 V they would be: 0 V, 4 V, 8 V & 12 V and each adjacent pair would be 4 V the cell voltage.

Edit
I just noticed the numbers you added, but they are still not negative except the lowest one, or maybe you mean the negative terminal on the cell again these points also contact the positive of the lower cell in the series.

[Jaquith]

This is my last post here in this thread .. unless anyone can find a concrete fault of the Reuleaux, and who clearly understands 3S wiring, wiring specs and has performed tests...

My sincerest suggestion is for people to build a DNA 200 Mod, in doing so as I have you're forced to understand simple wiring, soldering, wire types and specs. 

There is nothing that I have seen, read here or know about so far that makes the Reuleaux substandard. 

[dwcraig1]

OK here's the other two wires for balance:

I didn't get the sled out, probably related to the spring loaded contacts. I didn't want to be searching for little pieces. I did see what I was after and that being the B+ wire. Not silicone and I'd guess it to be 20 gauge. Sorry about the crap picture, I didn't realize it was that bad till I re-assembled the mod.

Edited: B+, it's 20 gauge

[VapingBad]

So it is just using the center 2 taps, thanks dwcraig I had just ladled the picture to try and help jaquith, did you measure the thicker wire conductor diameter?

[lewisss]

lewisss said:

[QUOTE=XenonRam]Hey guys;
I just got a Reuleaux! I noticed, when changing batteries, that it turns on with just the back 2 batteries installed. (I accidentally hit the fire button when changing the batteries.) If I changed the eScribe settings to 2s rather than 3s, would I be able to use it with just two? I would make some sort of place holder where the third battery goes. I realize that there would be no real reason to want to do this, other than pure curiosity, and maybe to lighten it up a bit... since it IS HEAVY as hell. Anyone know about this?

Thanks,
XenonRam

I would be very wary of doing this. the batteries are wired in series now normally if you took any one of the batteries out of the chain there would not be a circuit made.

So why is yours working like that?



with 3 18650 in the dna 200 the first battery +ve goes to the B+ on the chip with 16 gauge wire
the third battery -ve goes to the B- on the chip with 16 gauge wire.

the only way yours is working is that by taking out one battery either the B+ or B- 16gauge wire is effectively not connected. so the current is finding another way through. 

where? through the balance wires which are a damn sight smaller than 16 gauge.

It will work, for a while, but it wont be long before that wire overheats and could possibly cause a fire.

Put up with the weight!


[/QUOTE]
 think this has got out of hand and been misinterpreted from what i posted here!!!

I did not mean that the wires in the releaux were sub standard!
I meant that if Xenonram found it was working with only two batteries it means that the circuit is being made via the balance wire rather than the correctly sized Battery wire which could cause an overload if it also fired.

Also I got it wrong as well as Jaquith pointed out if they are using silicon insulated wires the minimum recommended are 20 gauge

apologies if this has caused any concerns

[Spector NS5 RD]

look what u done started @dwcraig1!    @jquaith is up in arms over duh ignant mo-fos up in he-uh. lol thanks for the pics showing where it's soldered on the balance taps. i get it now. i hate to be the one to break it to a certain person that the battery wiring IS SUBSTANDARD. otherwise a great mod and i will get one with or without crappy wiring. i'll rewire it myself need be. good stuff

[VapingBad]

Using only 2 balance wires is not that bad, IIRC Evolv recommend keeping them the same length, but they form the same circuit and provide the same inputs to the board so it is no biggie.  I only posted to give a possible explanation of how it could be wired with 2 thin and one thick wire.  The pics are all consistent with my picture and the board does have a ground screw.

[dwcraig1]

I'd do a live view of voltage sag comparing my Wismec and Vapecige box @ 200 watts but I'm afraid to run the Wismec much harder. Actually other than maybe temp being off a bit at higher wattage the end result would probably be premature weak battery display. I doubt that the wires would fry.

[VapingBad]

I just noticed you edit at the bottom of the post with pics dwcraig1 that the battery positive is 20 AWG (I assume silicon) so it is up to min spec if using common ground as I conjected (new word copyright VB 2015).

[dwcraig1]

VapingBad said:

I just noticed you edit at the bottom of the post with pics dwcraig1 that the battery positive is 20 AWG (I assume silicon) so it is up to min spec if using common ground as I conjected (new word copyright VB 2015).

I don't believe it's silicone, what I did was probe at it with a very small (sharp) precision screw driver and decided it was pretty hard insulation. Also it seemed quite stiff. To determine the gauge, well that was done visually comparing it to a wire in hand which I then measured (real accurate I know). I was more interested in satisfying myself as to what was used. 
BTW if chassis ground was used, I didn't see it, that would make the wire gauge on the B+ less critical as only half the length of wire is used.

[VapingBad]

dwcraig1 said:

[QUOTE=VapingBad]I just noticed you edit at the bottom of the post with pics dwcraig1 that the battery positive is 20 AWG (I assume silicon) so it is up to min spec if using common ground as I conjected (new word copyright VB 2015).

I don't believe it's silicone, what I did was probe at it with a very small (sharp) precision screw driver and decided it was pretty hard insulation. Also it seemed quite stiff. To determine the gauge, well that was done visually comparing it to a wire in hand which I then measured (real accurate I know). I was more interested in satisfying myself as to what was used. 
BTW if chassis ground was used, I didn't see it, that would make the wire gauge on the B+ less critical as only half the length of wire is used.[/QUOTE]
I hope there is a common ground as the thin black wire is not cutting it.  Can you confirm there are only 3 wires from the battery cradle to the board, as my theory/conjecture is from that presumption.  It makes sense with a common ground because the thin black wire goes to b1, the thin red to b2 & the 20 AWG red to bat +ve so the negative must come from the chassis.  I would have expected that lowest battery negative terminal extends to one of the screw mounts for the battery cradle.

[dwcraig1]

Here is live view of Wismec at 180 watts:
 
And Vapecige firing at 180 watts:
 
Maybe just a difference in the batteries, maybe the wire gauge, maybe both. But if I were a power user I'd stick with the lipo.
I really like the Wismec regardless.

[Jaquith]

dwcraig1 said:

Here is live view of Wismec at 180 watts:
  
And Vapecige firing at 180 watts:
  
Maybe just a difference in the batteries, maybe the wire gauge, maybe both. But if I were a power user I'd stick with the lipo.
I really like the Wismec regardless.

As I said It's 18650's vs LiPo's; copy/paste using IDENTICAL Atty and settings.

[Identical ecig file and identical dual Ti/Kanthal Atty] Next 18650's sag (voltage drop) more than LiPo's. Here's a 18650's: Reuleaux with 3S and nearly depleted (~10%) vs 2S DNA 200 (133W) with fully charged batteries (2); vs LiPo's: a 2000 mAh LiPo 60% vs 900 mAh LiPo fully charged:



Perhaps now folks will understand why I'd like to see for 18650's the Cell Soft Cutoff go down to 2.5V. LiPo's are essentially 'dead' at ~3.0V (load) and they drop-off a cliff whereas an 18650 is still pumping out power at 2.6V (load). 


18650 on the Right .. LiPo on the Left:
 

[Majnu]

It looks like they knew about the wire issue when reviewers received samples yet didn't make any changes for the production runs.

[XenonRam]

dwcraig1 said:

[QUOTE=VapingBad]I just noticed you edit at the bottom of the post with pics dwcraig1 that the battery positive is 20 AWG (I assume silicon) so it is up to min spec if using common ground as I conjected (new word copyright VB 2015).

I don't believe it's silicone, what I did was probe at it with a very small (sharp) precision screw driver and decided it was pretty hard insulation. Also it seemed quite stiff. To determine the gauge, well that was done visually comparing it to a wire in hand which I then measured (real accurate I know). I was more interested in satisfying myself as to what was used. 
BTW if chassis ground was used, I didn't see it, that would make the wire gauge on the B+ less critical as only half the length of wire is used.[/QUOTE]

dwcraig1;
In that pic you posted on page 4, you can see the chassis ground. It is the screw going through the board into the chassis directly under the UP button.



I believe there is a 9th screw holding the blue sled in place. (There are the two T6 Torx screws, one on the top and one on the bottom, the 6 visible Phillips screws behind the batteries.)



I believe that there is a 9th screw that is covered with a white foam plug. It is about 3/16" down to the 4 o'clock position of the upper right Phillips screw behind the battery. I think that this is a "tamper proof" screw, but I'm not sure I haven't attempted to take it apart because I have no interest in doing so, because Evolv certified it to be within spec.

XenonRam

[XenonRam]

VapingBad said:

I hope there is a common ground as the thin black wire is not cutting it.

Vaping Bad;
There is a ground between the board and chassis. A pic of it is shown in my last post. All of the current carrying wires are within spec. The balancing wires are only carrying ~25 mA, so they don't need to be thick at all. Email Evolv, and ask them about the wires, and whatever questions you have about it. I think that would be better than getting someone's "expert opinion." Some people think that if they read a few Wiki articles and do some research they're experts in the subject. Get the confirmation straight from the actual experts.

XenonRam

[dwcraig1]

I was looking for where the battery sled grounded, not the board.
The screw under the foam plug isn't tamper proof, the foam may be a means of determining if it was tampered with though. I think it may be where the sled grounds. It screws into the hole next to negative output pad
 

[VapingBad]

XenonRam said:

[QUOTE=VapingBad]
I hope there is a common ground as the thin black wire is not cutting it.

Vaping Bad;
There is a ground between the board and chassis. A pic of it is shown in my last post. All of the current carrying wires are within spec. The balancing wires are only carrying ~25 mA, so they don't need to be thick at all. Email Evolv, and ask them about the wires, and whatever questions you have about it. I think that would be better than getting someone's "expert opinion." Some people think that if they read a few Wiki articles and do some research they're experts in the subject. Get the confirmation straight from the actual experts.

XenonRam[/QUOTE]
I know, I had already posted (#60) about that, I was meaning completing the circuit by grounding 0 V from the battery pack that we had not seen any pictures of.

[anaschillin]

I just updated my firmware to latest from Wismec and using settings from them too. 

I have a issue at the moment. I am using Uwell Crown Tank with Ni 0.15 coils it doesn't seem to vape properly even when I crank it up to about 100 w @ 510 f. Theres minimal smoke and no nicotine hit. If I unlock the coil reading it reads the coil at 0.22 is that a problem or how do I fix it? 

If I reset back to original settings then it seems to vape fine but still reads the coil wrong at 0.15 

Can anyone help me fix it? 

Has anyone got a decent profile I use for Uwell Crown with 0.15 coils?


Reagrds

[Spector NS5 RD]

hey @dwcraig1 does it look like theres enough room to just piggy back wires onto the existing ones to beef up the connection? and still be able to be put back together?

[dwcraig1]

ChunkyButt200 said:

hey @dwcraig1 does it look like theres enough room to just piggy back wires onto the existing ones to beef up the connection? and still be able to be put back together?

I suppose but it would be just as easy or easier to replace them.
I think there's little to be gained by changing them though, seems the 18650's might be more of where the voltage drop comes from.

[Margucci]

ok i just noticed this. http://www.gearbest.com/temperature-control-mods/pp_268745.html

gearbest doing preorders for this mod for under $50 US. at first i thought it was a DNA200 but after some more reading it doesnt use the DNA chip at all. it just physically looks exactly like the DNA200 version. i can only imagine how many people will purchase this mod thinking that it is the DNA200 version which has been universally praised across the vaping community and end up with something completely different. i have lost so much respect for wismec with this move.