Jump to content

SS316L Again


aabbas
 Share

Recommended Posts

Gents,

I know that this is not the first post on the forum discussing SS316L temperature control. I have been searching the web for a month now including this forum for answers.

I switched from Yihi to DNA200 a month ago and I had no problem what so ever with the Yihi chip and temperature control with SS316L wire. I can easily adjust the TCR range from 0.00089 to 0.00105 and works fine.

I have downloaded my first csv file from steam engine and the vape is not as expected. My setup is SS316L 26AWG 6wraps spaced 0.41ohm, 390 to 410 F @ 30w. With this setup on the Yihi I get good cloud and taste. On the DNA not much cloud, vape is cold and almost no taste. I have taken the temp up to 500F and it wasn’t that pleasant.

I have downloaded other csv that I found on this forum but with no luck.

Any suggestions?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

kidrock247 said:

https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/65874-topic/?do=findComment&comment=891734

Try the profiles listed in the above post. v3.25 works best for me(using a ss 316l 0.4 phm clapton coil head for the asipre cleito on a vt133)

3.25 still doesn't have the smoothness that even my Coolfire IV TC100 has using the same coils you are. I switched to 3.5, dropped the preheat to 1W, soft punch, 1s, 55W power and I run it at 550F and it's somewhat comparable to the TC100 at 530F but it still feels off. I also don't get how the Coolfire handles TC so well with Crown SS coils even though they are meant for TC and the DNA can't handle them at all. At least it doesn't kick me out to power mode like I've heard of in the past but it's definitely irritating.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

VapingBad said:

Do you have the latest firmware (V1.2SP3), you can see the version in the bottom right had side of device monitor.

My Triade came with SP3, it didn't work and it doesn't work on SP4 either unless I totally messed something up (which is possible, it's my first DNA after all).
Link to comment
Share on other sites

VapingBad said:

It should work with both versions of EScribe (SP3 is an EScribe and DNA 60, 200 & 250 FW update, but SP3 is ESCribe and DNA 250 fw update).

Well I only modified one of the profiles (the nickel hot) to make a custom SS profile. I just tried the stock one and even at 555F, there's practically no vapor.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Personally I find the built on 316 profile great, according to http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp?r=0.41&hfnw=30&awg=26&id=1.12&ll=0 your coil would need to be 1 mm inner diameter for that res with 6 wraps and only good up to about 12 W so I doubt it is SS316L wire.  You can make a custom material in EScribe and put in the TCR that works on the YiHi for that wire.

You will find a difference between the DNA and the YiHi, the Evolv will be smoother it regulated by varying the voltage and the YiHi regulate by varying the length and gaps of higher voltage pulses.  I found I had to set the power and temp lower with the YiHi boards.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ethrem ive just google searched the coils your on about, sorry to say they look like a pile of junk compared to what you should be making by hand, what vg ratio are you trying to pull through thoes ear plugs ?? i would recomend dripping some juice down the spout to verify you have a wet wick, your mod or board also needs to be room stable to the temp of the atty or your readings will be out from the very onset.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

black lace said:

Ethrem ive just google searched the coils your on about, sorry to say they look like a pile of junk compared to what you should be making by hand, i would recomend dripping some juice down the spout to verify you have a wet wick, your mod or board also needs to be room stable to the temp of the atty or your readings will be out from the very onset.

If I put the same coil on my TC100 and choose the SS option, it works beautifully with a 55W ramp and 480F. Crown coils work perfectly with TC with it too. I guess I dont understand why the DNA can't do what the Aethon chip Innokin made handles with finesse. Innokin was so confident about the TC100s abilities that it's starter kit comes with SS coils it tells you to use in TC mode for the best experience. It's alright though, even in power mode this thing is a beast. There is definitely a big difference between my TC100s and my DNA in power mode. When I get some money again I'm going to be picking up an Aromamizer Supreme and I'll start building my own coils.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like the aromatizer and also use a dripper, i cant get to gripps with the stainless, to low an ohms and hot battery for me, i use the Nife30, the mind boggles how they can get a claptoned coil into a metal screw in and machine pack it with cotton and expect it to preform. Might be ok with 50/50 vg/pg, but not much higher on the vg, try soaking one for an hour or so beffor you fire it or take any mod measurments or settings. The dna is very acurate, and screw in coils are poor, so perhaps issues happen..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

black lace said:

I like the aromatizer and also use a dripper, i cant get to gripps with the stainless, to low an ohms and hot battery for me, i use the Nife30, the mind boggles how they can get a claptoned coil into a metal screw in and machine pack it with cotton and expect it to preform. Might be ok with 50/50 vg/pg, but not much higher on the vg, try soaking one for an hour or so beffor you fire it or take any mod measurments or settings.

Actually the Cleito handles my 95VG juice with ease. It doesn't gunk up at all. My Crown coils, on the other hand, die within a week if I'm using high VG juice. The Cleito 0.2 kanthal and 0.4 SS last about a month of using various juices (I switch daily or I get vaper's tongue). I have two of them and I like them a lot. I don't even have to prime them whereas with the Crown coils, I have to spend a good 10 minutes soaking the cotton and slowly ramping the wattage or the coil toasts in a week. The Cleito I just pop a new coil in, fill it up, wait a minute, set my wattage, and fire. The lowest VG I have is 76, most of them are 80/20. The Cleito works okay with the custom profile I made which is a modification of the v3.5 Jaquith profile but the power drop is still noticeable.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

black lace said:

No build your own coils and use a dripper or an aromatizer.

I plan to but I've spent all the money I can spend right now. Before the flash sale that got me this sweet mod went up, like 8 hours prior I bought an RX200S, 6 Samsung 25Rs, and a Luc V6 charger. Then I turned around and bought the DNA 250. I'm tapped out until I sell this RX200S. Lol.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you all for your info.

I have noticed that on the DNA200 using steam engine SS316l wire profile vaping on high temp up does the trick for me, ranging from 450F to 500F. While on the Yihi chip my range is 400F to 420F.

I have read that cotton burns at 400 to 420 F?

What temp range are you vaping on?


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah depending on the brand etc cotton starts to scorch in the low 400 F range,  I vape around 400 F with 100% PG that has a lower boiling point than VG, actually I have a cold ATM and one build I have turned down to 333 F.  I find sometimes adding a wrap or two to the coil rather than turning the temp up, this spreads the heat more and can give you more vapour if you are vaping at the temp limit.  Twisted coils also give more vapour for their size because they have more surface area, just like Claptons etc, but much simpler to make.  We are all different and what suites me may not suit you, but IMO sufficient coil surface area is often overlooked YMMV.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I built some dual 10 wrap contact 24 gauge 316L which cold reads at .2117 and when locked at that value it really sucks but if I force it to lock at .23 or .24 I get way more vape and it doesn't hit temp cut off quickly. Is this safe to do? I can't find a successful vape and I've tried the UD 3.25 and 3.5 values posted here in this thread without locking it at a higher ohm. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

monitor.png dual 10 wrap contact 24 gauge 316L which cold reads at .2117 but I locked at .235; power 30W, temp 415F, preheat 1W @ 1 PHpunch and time of 1s. Works great in my Griffin 25. Flavor is nice, it's warm, and I'm using DJaquith V7 for SS 316L. First puff takes a second to warm up but it holds a nice steady stream of vapor even up to the temp cut off and it starts to get weakened a bit but not as bad as it did before I tweaked it. If I set the temp to 420 or even 425 it gets warmer but I feel like the cotton gets kinda dry at those temps. Might be my wicking and could use less cotton bacon but for now it's great.

Thanks DJ for all the CVS files!

Running on a Vaporflask 133 by Vapor Shark. 



EDIT: After rewicking it with less cotton I think the better juice flow keeps my temps from climbing even more and it doesn't even hit 400 now. This is AWESOME!

monitor.png 
Link to comment
Share on other sites

aabbas said:

Finally got what was wrong, it seems that locking the ohm is essential for TC. Thanks to Joel Al last enjoying my DNA200



Locking the ohm's isn't essential for TC but is used for some to achieve what they desire. Refinement give the most accurate results when used properly with a solid coil/atty build. 

But if locking the ohm's works for you then that's all that matters... :)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...