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arby

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    mass
  • What DNA product do you own or plan to buy?
    I already own a Vaporshark 133 Flask

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  1. After my reformat cause of 1903 the only drivers I've manually installed so far are my chipset, raid controller, and video drivers.
  2. Actually it does, my motherboard only has 3.0 USB on the rear I/O. I've already tried the IV versions as well with no luck.
  3. My motherboard is only 3.0 and it did work on this build when I put it together in 2016 on my older DNA mod.
  4. Sorry for the late reply but none of these things worked. I even had to reformat earlier today cause the newest cumulative update corrupted my Windows. Devices are clearly charging from the lighting bolt on their respected screens. I grabbed an older DNA167 mod I had and it won't work on that either so it isn't just the 75C that is the issue.
  5. I've tried the ones suggested here and several other ones all the way up to the newest version. No hub and different cables. Like I said I tried everything this thread suggested. My VM is almost done installing Win7, gonna try this next. My VM of Win7 didn't work, the mods know they are charging and when a cable has been plugged into them, and I have been able to go into Escribe with them before on W10 so I don't know what is going on.
  6. I'm necroing this thread, I know its old but I am having issues with my 75C connecting. I've tried everything in this thread. Using the OG escribe software for when the 75C or 250C chip came out all the way to the newest SP. No luck, I am about to make a W7 virtual drive and try it in there if I have to. But I wanted to know if there has been any development that hasn't been posted or discovered that has solved this before I go digging for my Tiny7 install.
  7. I just plugged in my VF133 and downloaded an update to it. What were the notes for the most recent update I can't find any.
  8. I vape using LightningVapes 24ga 316L wire and with all my builds I have to lock a higher ohm to get a good vape than the default cold ohm reading on my builds. Same goes for SweetSpot wire.
  9. This^ I can only get a good vape when I lock the ohms a tad higher than they are unlocked or locking the cold ohms.
  10. Glad to see another vapor enjoying their temp control. I know that feeling of success, it's great.
  11. dual 10 wrap contact 24 gauge 316L which cold reads at .2117 but I locked at .235; power 30W, temp 415F, preheat 1W @ 1 PHpunch and time of 1s. Works great in my Griffin 25. Flavor is nice, it's warm, and I'm using DJaquith V7 for SS 316L. First puff takes a second to warm up but it holds a nice steady stream of vapor even up to the temp cut off and it starts to get weakened a bit but not as bad as it did before I tweaked it. If I set the temp to 420 or even 425 it gets warmer but I feel like the cotton gets kinda dry at those temps. Might be my wicking and could use less cotton bacon but for now it's great. Thanks DJ for all the CVS files! Running on a Vaporflask 133 by Vapor Shark. EDIT: After rewicking it with less cotton I think the better juice flow keeps my temps from climbing even more and it doesn't even hit 400 now. This is AWESOME!
  12. I built some dual 10 wrap contact 24 gauge 316L which cold reads at .2117 and when locked at that value it really sucks but if I force it to lock at .23 or .24 I get way more vape and it doesn't hit temp cut off quickly. Is this safe to do? I can't find a successful vape and I've tried the UD 3.25 and 3.5 values posted here in this thread without locking it at a higher ohm.
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