JaySoCal

stay away from fat daddy vapes v5 510

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Stay away from fat daddy vapes 510. I know very bold and forward but let me explain. Been through 3 dna boards. The first one never came on so doubt it is related to this issue. The next 2 maybe. The ceramic insulator has no retention groove and will eventually move in the 510. The 2nd board worked great for a few weeks then restiance would fluctuate. Thought it was the clone rda so bought a authentic twisted mess rda. It was better but still some. Then it fried sent it in for warranty. 3rd board same thing but this time I got warranty service. Now on the 4th board was vaping on it a few weeks ago started do the same thing but was taking a vape and the check atomizer was displayed. So grabbed the atty and it was loose huh? Vaped it a little while longer was acting weird then check atomizer agian. But this time it is tight. Huh? Tale the back off the + wire is unsoldered form the 510. Huh?. I re-solder it to the 510 but still getting check atomizer weird right. So decide to push on the 510 with a screw driver it moved. Un soldered it and took the 510 out of the mod and the ceramic was cracked and allowed the positive pin to be close to the outside. Not a full short but close to it may of been intermittently allowing a short. Put a varitube v2 510 mod runs totally diffrent ohms don't jump feels way smoother.

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Yeah the V5's are not very good I bought 3 of them and the ceramic would get pushed out. The glueing job wasn't very good

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I use the version 4 fat daddy Vapes 510 connector and drill out the post just a little bit at the opening where you insert your wire to allow for the 14 gage wire to fit . As long as you're very very careful this works fantastic! I have had no issues whatsoever.

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Ive had a few issues with them, not sure wich version 3 or 4 the brass end caps fall appart when you assemble them, screw them up all the way and then screw your atty on, it forces the bottom off, very frustrsting as its the final part of a build, i just use a generic one, very similar to varitube but a beefier spring.. beefier spring than the ftv as well actually, and cheaper..

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I have a wismec rx200 & wismec dna200. Which the 510 is junk on these. Replaced both with the short v4 like a lot of people have. I haven't had any issues with either of them. Way better then the original junk wismec puts on there.

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Bill never seen those before. I was using some Teflon washers I bought from the hardware store. But they where a little thicker & the hole was a little big. Got tired of messing with them every time I changed tanks. I wish I would have seen those. They would work good. It's kinda bs though for them 2 put a shorter 510 on there mod & tanks. If they had a better 510 we wouldn't need 2 shim are tanks or replace it. A lot of people that buy these don't know about it being short. Screw in there tanks and end up with a mod that won't read there tanks.

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BillW50 said:

I have two RX200 (since January) and two Reuleaux DNA200 (since February) and I have used mod guards with them and have been very careful. And so far the 510s are holding up just fine.

http://www.kidneypuncher.com/kp-mod-guard-5-pack/

I've made my own in the past out of 1mm firestone roofing rubber, but for the screw type 510 centerpin as spacers, (screw up and downy) i aint seen a lot of em about for mod building, would be happy to use some.. like ciggreen and sigelei used back in the day, in the olden days, about 18 months ago..

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Hi, If you look on their website, the V5's are designed for use in unregulated mods. I recently bought a 22mm V4 to build a DNA 60 mod. I have hear evolv designed one with 4 screws mounted into the mod body. But, I haven't had any luck finding them online.

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txmonkey214 said:

Hi, If you look on their website, the V5's are designed for use in unregulated mods. I recently bought a 22mm V4 to build a DNA 60 mod. I have hear evolv designed one with 4 screws mounted into the mod body. But, I haven't had any luck finding them online.

This one?
http://www.protovapor.com/product/evolv-510-connector/
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I'm not a big fan of the Fat Daddy 510s either - I had the low profile wide version on a diy mod and the center pin slipped in the white plastic shroud causing atomiser check issues. Also the adjustable pin often ended up being screwed in along with the atty, also causing resistance fluctuations/shorts.

I recently modded a RX200 with a DNA200 board and a Varitube 510 - haven't had any resistance/atomiser check issues with this 510.

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I'm glad I read this because I had a Fat Daddy 510 v4 on my parts list. I don't really feel like drilling the centre post or any other niggles mentioned.

What is a good quality, pain free and reliable 510 to use, which suits the DNA200 board? Spring loaded,

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billy_idle said:

I'm glad I read this because I had a Fat Daddy 510 v4 on my parts list. I don't really feel like drilling the centre post or any other niggles mentioned.

What is a good quality, pain free and reliable 510 to use, which suits the DNA200 board? Spring loaded,


We were just discussing that a few days ago here https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/66679-topic/

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JaySoCal said:

Stay away from fat daddy vapes 510. I know very bold and forward but let me explain. Been through 3 dna boards. The first one never came on so doubt it is related to this issue. The next 2 maybe. The ceramic insulator has no retention groove and will eventually move in the 510. The 2nd board worked great for a few weeks then restiance would fluctuate. Thought it was the clone rda so bought a authentic twisted mess rda. It was better but still some. Then it fried sent it in for warranty. 3rd board same thing but this time I got warranty service. Now on the 4th board was vaping on it a few weeks ago started do the same thing but was taking a vape and the check atomizer was displayed. So grabbed the atty and it was loose huh? Vaped it a little while longer was acting weird then check atomizer agian. But this time it is tight. Huh? Tale the back off the + wire is unsoldered form the 510. Huh?. I re-solder it to the 510 but still getting check atomizer weird right. So decide to push on the 510 with a screw driver it moved. Un soldered it and took the 510 out of the mod and the ceramic was cracked and allowed the positive pin to be close to the outside. Not a full short but close to it may of been intermittently allowing a short. Put a varitube v2 510 mod runs totally diffrent ohms don't jump feels way smoother.

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Like i said three months ago, i had problems with the, i think the v3's, not enough pin travel and would push the brass cap end off, not brazed on just push fit, absolute f**ing rubbish, his drip tipps look cool but are rubbish on the inners if your using a dripper.. i also use vatitube and a generic 510, wich is a coppie of the veritube and they knock the fdv products into a cocked hat, if your going to pay for a name stick with evolv,

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I appreciate the mention of the potential issues with some 510 connectors! :thumb:

I purchased one recently and was very hesitant so I stretched my google legs and found this thread. The press fit/swedge cut brass used to solder to was just spinning and would have really played havoc in consideration of ohms resistance, besides for atomizers 24mm and larger the o-ring seated in the deck wouldn't have sealed.

It was about .015" or .020" I removed from the outer lip so larger atomizers would contact the seated o-ring in the deck.
[IMG_20170101_105554_zps5yagxapz] 
To stabilize any resistance fluctuations I press fit a piece of copper tightly onto the center pin. We'll see how this all works out eventually.
Edit: Oh, I barbed and tappered the end of the center pin too. 
[2017-1-1%2015-9-0_zpsdyaxuuun] 
[QUOTE]
[/QUOTE]

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