Lanzarotechris

I checked the article and it indeed says "Check that the resistance is reading accurately and lock the resistance (typically by pressing the +/- buttons)." Which is stupid I think. Well, we can now discuss the quality of this reference, or we can agree that for example there is no reference to that action in any DNA manual, or any vodeo/article I read about TC in the last 1,5 years. The only firmware I know of that locks ohms "by default" is ArcticFox, but only when you set the ohms manually. Maybe some devices will work better with it, I don't know, but as we talk here about DNA devices let me ashure you that there is no need to "lock" the ohms (except when they are not stable). Reason is that when you use TC mode, the mod knows that the material will change the resistance (and can calculate the temperature correctly when you have choosen the correct material). And because when you are asked "new atomizer yes/no" the mod will use this value as a reference point for all calculations. Can we agree on that ? PS: It's nice if you like to help people here, but when you say your english is not good, then you know that can be difficult, right ? BTW: What is you native language ?

@zark: Please do not confuse the people you try to help by using words that have a different meaning. When you say "lock" then Adam_Aves thinks you refer to the "lock ohm" function. When the atomizer asks "new atomizer yes/no" and you say "yes", then the atomizer sets the new ohm value as the reference/base line for the calculation (when you set it at room temperature without heating it up before). But this is not "locking" the ohms. Its more like a reset of the baseline so the curve the DNA chip works with (material csv) has a reference point, from which the atomizer can calculate the temperature (as certain materials have a specific curve when heating up). @Adam_Aves: Please do NOT lock your ohms by default when using TC mode. ONLY when the display/escribe shows that your ohm value is not stable. Stable in this regard means it does not change the value. Of course it will change slightly when the room temperature changes (for example when you go out in winter, because then the "room temperature" is not 20°C but 5°C. Not stable/fluctuating means when it is changing constantly without reason (for example when you screw it onto the mod and it reads 0.5 ohms, 10 minutes later it shows 0.55 ohms and another 10 minutes later it shows 4.5 ohms (without vaping between of course). The time is just an exanple, it could also be in shorter intervals of course. THEN you can lock the ohm setting so the mod has again a fixed reference point to work with. Is this answering all open questions ?

@zark I asked you about a source. And I do no stupid forum-fights, I am too old for that kind of wasting my time, so if you like my signature or not, I really don't care.

@zark So you say all TC materials (SS, TI and NI) should be locked by default because they change resistance when heated ? Thats new to me... never heared that anywhere. Do you have a source for that ?

The temp seems ok, cotton should not get burned below 250°C. Just to be clear... the device will not stop to heat up the coil, it just will lower the power/wattage so you should not expect it to "switch off" or something, but the power should drop to a point where no vape will be produced when the liquid is fully gone. So in your case from 15 W to maybe 2 or 3 W. You should be able too see the drop on your device monitor (depending on your theme of course) or in the escribe device monitor. Did you set the device to the correct material ? If you choose the wrong material then the device will use the wrong curve to calculate the temperature. And of course this will only work with TC compatible materials (SS (all), NI (200), TI). Not with Kanthal or low Ni alloys.

If it works for you, fine. Doesn't mean it works for everybody. You can check the forum to see what I mean... there are quite some people having problems to find the right settings. Even some who vape for a long time.

Whats your settings ? (Temp, Watts, TC, ...) And the infos about your coil would be nice ;-) So we can get a picture to find out whats wrong.

How do you consider that answer a confirmation of some rumours ??? That is absolutely BS... The guy is talking about restocking... no word about terminating a new product line in anyway. And all I find when I google the Q is that it is the "cheaper" version of the GO... so they made a version with replay and sophisticated settings, and now with the Q a cheaper version which is stripped of some posibilities in regards to settings. Why should they terminate a new product anyway ? Even the pods are somewhat interchangeble... People should not believe all the BS they read online... especially when there is no logic involved 😉 And you should not add more BS to it like "Its confirmed by V-DNA..." when there is no word about it in that posting.

Making a noise is not the proper way to check if the device is recognized or not. Open Escribe and see if the device is recognized/connected or not ! If not, then check: a) the USB cable (try another one) b) the USB Port (try another one) c) if you use WIN OS, try to reboot and then try a) and b) again ! Tho help you further if all fails, it would be nice to know your OS (WIN, MAC, Linux,...) and if you get any kind of message/error...

Yes, that would be nice. Mesh data is so difficult to find on the web. I have an Iris Mesh RDA and I really like it. Uses lots of cotton but the vape is great. I searched a lot but never found any useful info. Not even what will be the difference in vaping when using 150, 300 or 400 mesh, or how to get a certain resistance. Its still some kind of surprise what you'll get when you make the coil. If someone knows a dedicated webpage about mesh I would be thankful.

@BillW50 Actually SS316 is quite an industry standard, so the differences in the alloy mixture are / (should be) minor. Of course there are more or less "questionable" manufacturers... not only in china. Thats a problem with capitalism... if you can make an extra cent by choosing cheaper material some will do it for the profit. But you can say that about every material we use in vaping I guess. How will you proof that your kanthal or your titanium is pure/within the standard ? So just don't buy the cheapest stuff there is, and maybe choose some well known manufacturer. The other thing is: when your (DNA) mod shows your the ohms, then you can expect it to be accurate. And if some SS316 changes the resistance within 100 °C temp difference at some 4th or 5th digit after the commata isn't really changing anything. So the standard CSVs from Steam Engine for example should still create the proper results. If the differences are really that big, then you should probably change your dealer for the wire. As we are vaping within a small window of about 150-250 °C the result should not be that different, except you have a really bad or fautly wire or a really messed-up CSV. At least I have never experienced any big differences with my wires/CSVs. There is a difference when switching to another mod, but thats related to the chipset I assume. Like the big difference between my old Therion 75 and the new Triade 250C.

@Quipu No problems so far with my dual coilers. Throttling only appears when using single coil ss316l as far as I can tell... Especially on my GT3 and GT4 attys. Didn't watched it that closely as I just switch to another mod when it doesn't work on the Triade. But its definately disturbing when using a "high end premium" mod like a Triade 250 C and a high end atty. Just shouldn't happen... Well,... every new technique has its flaws in the beginning I guess... As long as they can fix it via the software I'm fine with it so far. But its anoying as you would expect a manufacturer like evolv/DNA that they would fix it before they sell it... Especially when the selling tune is that it would be so easy, just find your perfect puff and replay it. From my POV its the mod I have the most trouble with so far... and the most difficult to find the right settings as there are much more options to consider than with my old Therion 75 for example. Thats what brought me here into the forum in the first place. And when you see how many people have problems with the new C devices then you see the difference between sales pitch and reality.

@Quipu I'm pretty shure I don't need 70 Watts to warm up a 0.5 Ohms coil. Your 0.16 Ohm coil is playing in another league. Steam Engine is recommending 22 Watts with my settings, so I think I am fine with 25 Watts. Working fine on other mods too.

To me its still happening with the SP38. Using SS316L single coil with 0.53 ohms, set to 25 watts, max. temp setting (TC) to 240°C. I recognized that it gets worse when I activate preheat. Without preheat it happens only sometimes, but with preheat activated its quite unusuable. Definately a software problem in correlation with the temp settings. Hope its getting fixed soon.

I pefer it this way: KEEP IT SIMPLE ! If you are experienced, and want to try things out, or want to experiment with different builds etc. then you may profit from such a device. If you just want to quit smoking with no hussle and no fiddeling around with dozens of different settings, then use the simple (and cheaper) device. Also a good choice to step up is to get an older model like a Therion 75 (without C). The advantage of DNA devices is that they are very stable, reliable and measure your resistence quite accurate. If you vape for months or years you may step up and try new things like different wires, setups or atomizers. My first entry model was a 75 watts evic AIO, then I got the Therion 75, a squonker, a Reuleaux RX300 and finally a Triade 250C. Vaping now for 1 and a half years. But still figuring out the Triade after over 3 monts of use. Its not easy to set it up the way you want. Definately not anything I would reccomend for a beginner.

Ohm, Watts and Ampere are the basics for vaping, and are all parts of "Ohms Law". The needed Amps (as indicated on your batteries) are depending on your total power (1,2,3,4 Batteries), your build (Ohm Resistance of your wire(s)) and your wanted Wattage use. You can find lots of information about it online with the searchengine of your choice 😉 There are also calculators for it on the web. A simple example: You have a 0.5 Ohm build and want to run it with 80 Watts. That calculates to a needed 6.3 Volts (more than one 18650 cell, as they are limited to 4.2 Volts when fully charged. The Amps you will run with these settings will be 12.6 Amps. When you change your build to 0.2 Ohms (and still want to run it with 80 Watts) you will need 4 Volts and produce a current of 20 Amps ! Be aware that battery manufacturer will often overrate the Amps,... thats why you often will find a Amps and a max. Amps information, as the max. Amps is for short bursts not for continously use ! So in short, if you build very low, you produce a higher current (Amps) which should be in the tolerance of your batteries. If you use a low Amp battery and run it on high current, the chances are good that it will blow up as the battery is not made for that high current. At least it will kill your batteries over time... so stay within the given limits to be safe ! Last but not least there is also another difference in the calculations if you run the batteries in parallel or series configuration. You can search for that too. Most regulated devices are in series configuration. That means if yiu have 2x 18650 you have double the Voltage of one batterie (e.g. 4.2 x 2 = 8.4 Volts) but the current is the same on all batteries. If you use a unregulated mech mod you often have parallel configuration that mens you have only 4.2 Volts with 2 battieries but the current will be shared so it will be half when using 2 batteries (in the 2nd example I gave it will be 10 Amps per battery in parallel mode and 20 Amps in series configuration. So choose your "weapon of choice" depending what build you want to fire up 😉 A friend of mine is doing unregulated mods with builds around 0.09 (NO Typo!) Ohms. Use the calc to see what forces will hit the battieries ! Link to a simple Ohms Law Calculator: https://www.myvaporstore.com/ohms-calculator-for-vape-safety-a/292.htm Have a nice day, and vape safe !

Mach doch am besten n Ticket beim offiziellen Support auf. https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add&category=1

Sounds broken. Maybe the cables. Time for a new device I would say 😉 Got myself a new Triade since my Therion only uses 1 battery now. But I got some info here how to fix it. Just need some tools and some time to do it... Sorry that I can't help you further.

First thing that hits my eye is your temp setting. 312°C is way too high. As you see with the "normal puff" that temp is around 170°C in the peak, so you can set the temp to 200°. I prefer 235°, and you should not go higher than 250° as that is the temp when the cotton will start burning. Second thig is the resistance. In the normal puff it rises only a little (from 0,125 to 0,144) and then stays at that level. It looks to me like a kanthal coil, not SS. That could answer the question why TC is not working properly. Kanthal can not do TC as there is (more or less) no resistance change. That is why you need to use SS for TC because the resistance will change and the computer can calculate the temp from that change in resistance. So check your coils and make shure you use the right material for the right setting. If you need info which wattage to use with which resistance I would forward you to steam engine. You put in your details about the coil and you get a recomended Wattage. Of course you have to know your details like material, thickness, diameter and so on. From that recomendation you can start and go up or down with your wattage setting if you want it warmer or cooler.

@greg q Well, your first statement is quite strange, because when I search for "temperature control" or "TC" or "temp control" on the internet I get millions of hits, and lots of them include "Guide to TC", "Explanation of TC" "How TC works", and so on. And no, you don't have to read all of them as they mostly explain the same ;-) Its also not advisable to look on FB for photos of other peoples coil measurements... except when they have used YOUR coil. When you have poor vapor and the temp protection jumps in at 200°C, then I would guess your wick is dry. The resistance will not change when you switch from wattage to TC, as it has nothing to do with these settings. Its the resistance of your coil, so the reading should be identical as long as you use that coil. The last question I do not really understand... the 250C does wattage and TC mode... what else do you expect ?

Hast du ne aktuelle Version ? https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP17_INT.exe Hast du unter OPTIONS->USER INTERFACE auf "Manufacturer" umgestellt ? Der Trick mit auf das Atom-Symbol mehrfach klicken geht bei mir ohne Probleme. Sowohl unter Windows als auch unter Linux.

hi piotom70 The Basic ground rule is: There is no "right" or "wrong" ... if YOU like the vape and you are enjoying your vaping experience, then it is OK. You can "finetune" it to whatever you prefer... cool vape, warm vape,... Don't make the mistake and adapt to other peoples preferences because they tell you ! Good choice to use the steam engine BTW ;-) On the coil page you also see a recomended Wattage. For MY taste looking at your coil I would like it a little bit warmer... round about 30 Watts instead of 20, and the Temp would be in my case about 235°C. But as I said that would be my personal preference... The is also the Q of what kind of liquid do you use... different flavours have different temperatures where they taste better or worse. So for example you may vape fruits at a different temp than bakery liquids. There is some good information about the temp ranges of different flavours on the web. So, just go with it, tweak a little bit here and there, and if its worse then go back, if its better then go on ;-) Hope I could help answering your Q ! chris

Hi aatoo, according to my factsheet of the Sony VTC5A it has a sustained output current of 28 A and a max peak of 35 A. If you use different batteries always check the datasheets for this values ! There are some useful websites where you can find detailed information and tests for the batteries. I use this website( http://www.dampfakkus.de/ ) but unfortunately it is in german. But maybe you can use a translation tool to find what you're looking for if needed.

@asmcriminal Actually I can't even remember what I've tried and what not... But I am running at some decent temperature around 220-240°C. Shouldn't interfere with Replay, because Replay and TC are 2 seperate things... And I like TC because no dry-hits and the material (coils, cotton) works longer. That's why I also switched to use mostly SS coils. But I am getting to the point where I get used to the Triade and get a feeling about the settings... and the advice here from the forum helped a lot too. Definately not a device I would recommend for starters, thats for shure now. I want to write some kind of summary here in this post, but at the moment there are too much other things I have to take care of in real life, and also I still have to figure out some more of my 13 Atomizers on the Triade 😉 In the moment I just have 2 or 3 that work as expected. So not the end of the road yet, but I can see it in the distance 😉