scoopy

What does IIRC mean... I keep seeing this and still can't figure it out lol....I know it's an abbreviation like lol omw brb etc.....

I have the bigger size 3d print box like that and had to adjust the board screws a little to keep the buttons from firing......try loosening up the top 2 board screws a little......also the battery fits very tight in there sometimes pushing down on the board to much.....like the others above have said check to make sure your buttons move freely in and out there respective holes and sand them if need be

This has something to do with the factory that makes Evolvs and Yihis screens. ....It burnt or something and now there is probably gonna be a shortage of screens......Damn I didn't know that Modcrate quit selling them.....I knew I should of grabbed some quick before this happened

THE EVOLV 510 IS fantastic! ! It solves most connection issues with bad connections in attys by using the wave spring they used.....its also a lot beefier and basically 1 part .....The 510 an insulator and a c clip holds it all together. ..I want to strongly suggest MOD - CRATE to PLEASE start manufacturing and carrying them! !!! I knows us Modders want them so bad and I know they will sell like crack on your end lol!! Also I'd like to see a B box with the recessed 510 and the buttons and window all cut out instead of a faceplate ...Also I want to see the reference square buttons in that same B box just like u guys show in your pic's that u r making the buttons now....Please Consider and I'm totally fine with a higher cost....maybe anodised them different colors to or I'd really love a rubbery flat black finish just like a Vapor Shark.....I painted my beta reference box I got from EVOLV this way and love it!!!

Yes the MFR is manufacturer which is of course Evolv And the PRODUCT is the device and/or board being the DNA 200 As to the meaning it's just a way to find out who made it and what it is and if it's an actual authentic chip As to uploading themes or modifying the values of profiles via serial interface. ....I really don't know....that would have to be a question for James or John if he isn't still working on his new project Hope that helps explain some things

Is there any way to make or modify the mamu faceplate to fit the reference buttons......I absolutely hate them round buttons on that faceplate especially matching color....It looks cheap imho......I would love a B or G box with the cutouts already milled for the square reference buttons or a faceplate with them in it......Of course I would want the recessed 510 as well.....I like where u guys are going though and will have my business once a bigger box is offered

I to agree about not using SSV wire......They wouldn't release what's really in there wire and I simply don't trust that......There curves have seemed to be real inconsistent and inaccurate on this forum.....Also they like to argue with John on his own site and in his sandbox.....That alone is enough for me to boycott them

I to fold mine the way turbocad does and mine works fine after 2 minths.....I think the board going in to stealth mode was implemented by James for the screen pinching issues.....I know they did something for when the screen would briefly lose connection due to pinching or whatever but I may be wrong about the stealth part

Try loosening the bottom screw a little

Sounds like maybe the zip charging daughter board might have went bad.....that's hard to say because that shark is the only 200 that has this and I haven't messed with any yet

I don't know why u would have the cap and spring anywhere near the heat....I just took the cup/pin and put it in my helping hands alligator clip hit it with a torch and stuck the wire in.....then I just put all the pieces onto the wire in the right order that was already soldered to my out wire on the board....Put It In The Case And Connect It All To The 510 housing.....I Did Bore The Brass Cap Out On My Varitube to fit my 14 gauge insulation through it

All u have to do is take the 510 apart and put the pin that holds the wire in vice grips or alligator clips and then put a couple pieces of solder in the pin cup and hit it with a torch....The heat never even contacts the spring because it's all apart

That should definitely be "Wall Street" Approved. That's a very good setup..... even us "unworthy common folk" can change that battery so a "CEO" should have no problem

Nope just with temp control

Oh ya that's what I was gonna build it in was the Velocity. .....I love that damp dripper lol......I got 6 of them between me now the wife.....que each have an authentic and then 2 clones each.......We both have the Twisted Messes one and when I ordered the Velocities I couldn't get her to try one but when she finally did u can't get her to use anything else.....It's perfect for a quad.....The direct airflow will hit the bottom coils and the indirect air hits the top basically making it direct air flow on them to........I still haven't tried a quad yet but I think I'm gonna throw one together in the next few days

Are they wrapped with ti to or nickel......I wanted to try 2 TI cores and fuse them with 34 gauge nickel

I still haven't tried TI yet but have been wanting to pretty bad...I just ordered some spider silk tonight....I wanna try some Ti/NI200 claptons......hopefully I can make some fused claptons and still keep the resistance above a dead short lol

Thank you Brandon....Thanks for the other matter to. Much appreciated your help and certain other things!

Probably your ground wire....If you read all the posts about the Hanas on here you'll see that there plagued with this problem........I would try to RMA it with Hana or wherever u got it first.....If you have no luck there open up the case.........you will need to solder a wire from the ground tab on the top of the board to the outside of the 510 inside the case....or in between the threads of the 510 and case.... .u may have to take the 510 out and clean off the anodising on the threads of the case where the 510 goes.....that's why the Hanas aren't getting a good ground usually is from the anodising

I wrap 34 gauge around 26 or 28

Ya I run Clapton nickels on mine.....I'll try to get some pics up later......I love them....It is close to a kanthal/clapton vape but with all the benefits of TC

Bazhanov236. ...yep I'm all over the place lol

Iandvaypes. ...try the 8-21 firmware and see if it still does it.....not sayin it will fix it but it's worth a shot

Well u can get it exchanged or fixed by Hana or u can open the case and solder a ground wire from the ground tab on the board to the outer edge of the 510.....If you read around these forums you will see that the Hanas are plagued with this problem....They have Terrible grounding issues.....It seems they are not cleaning up the anodized portion of the case where the 510 and the screws attach to the board and case......u can usually fix it by doing what I said above......check the OUT wire from the board to the positive connection of the 510 as well because these are also known to be soldered poorly

I always wished they would make a flask with a 200 in it......no room at all to work with and still keep the same form factor though....keep us posted. ...anxious to see how ur setup turns out