scoopy

Ah....was thinking it was maybe an earlier revision. ....Bap did u paint them yourself.....would u be interested in doing mine for me or possibly know anywhere that would do it at a reasonable price

How much would it cost me to have something like that done.....I love the look of Bapgoods!

The difference looks like they forgot to countersink the holes around the 510 maybe I don't know lol

Ya I knew they weren't lol that's why I asked about the paint job.... I to have the same evolv made mod.....did u do the paint jobs yourself

Would u be interested in doing my evolv case for me lol

Them don't look 3d printed though I guess they could be... I have a 3d printed reference mod though it's the bigger one and I have an actual aluminium evolv made one ......I'm asking advice on how to get a good paint job to look like his......because I'm not thinking they are printed

I have the evolv one.....read my above post please

Bapgood. .....I was thinking of having my reference mod painted somehow. .....what do you recommend. ....any certain process or way to have a finish just like yours get done to mine

Uh can set I think to not display it at all....that's what I did

With the right wire it's works spot on......They never never said use SS......actually.said to stay away from it......that post nos on her e to

K I said I agreed with that part of it......but I promise u it's thenl wire/curve.......I've read a ton about this and how to fix it......steam engine has some curves mixed up for certain grade ss..........I've tried explaining this the best I know how......ure answers are on these forums.....I understand u r hostility but it can be fine I'll even do the work for u and post the threads and how to fix this without a work around and how ss is very very hard to get to work right........I'm sorry it mad and I'll take care of ths for u... ..search button is on top right.of page ya know. But don't worry I'll do it for u

This guy here.......3 people have told u what to do and u just instantly demand were wrong (me more than the others cuz I had enuff of getting called a dumb ass and spoke up.....I give up..... we told u what to do and u said I was a dumbass that knew nothing and am just a fanboy (although everyone else says most the same things I've said).....btw did u add your nichrome 80 to the tcr u made......was the tcr u picked for the exact right ss wire.....like we said if it don't have enough of a resistance rise it won't stay in tc.....I do agree with you on one point though..A warning message about before jumping out would be nice or a manual way to switch in between.....see I'm not unreasonable just trying to state the facts and help u out.....no need for us to bicker like bitches.........search on SS and TCR of it and u will see I'm not a dumbass fanboy without a clue And just a note if u want to use temp control and not have it pop out then use a wire with a halfway decent TCR curve and that isn't flat and u may see u like what your vaping.....Also if u want to use temp control then u r gonna have to use a wire that is designed and tested to work WELL tc......ur using the the hardest wire to get to work on tc besides kanthal and probably a sub par tcr...... just read around and you'll be able to get it to work without a "workaround"......... Once again I am totally on your side about the chip needing a warning message before it switches or a full manual operation of it

OK, let's solve the problem step by step. Keep in mind that the board wants to see a minimum level of temp increase as it applies power and the only way it has to detect a temp increase is to calculate it based on resistance increase of the wire applied to the TCR curve so . . . if the TCR doesn't match the wire configuration you're actually using, it won't and can't work properly. It is definitely not the same as prior more primitive TC mod technology that just calculated a target resistance from the TCR and temp setting and didn't care what that is. So exactly what wire are you using in what build configuration? What TCR curve are you using? I'm sure someone here can figure out a workable solution. There are guys here using SS coils successfully and I myself go with Ti / Kanthal claptons without issue, so as long as the build has at least some reasonable resistance sensitivity to temp and is stable, there is a TCR curve that will make it work well.[/QUOTE] Exactly Mad Scientist and Vaping Bad...First off like Vaping Bad said SS has its known issues.....not much of a curve at all, to many different kinds and grades of SS........Lack of a decent Repeatable TCR to download. ...I'm almost positive that the wire/TCR has at least something to do with it....I to tried telling him that there are people using the same type of wire with no problem but I'm sure there using a different type of stainless or better TCR curve. .There are all kinds of posts of people having this problem and getting it lined out but he refuses to search and do what we told him and instead keeps on insisting that it's the "junk chips" fault and wants to talk smack to people just trying to help him. . I had a feeling he would come back with an attitude with me because it wasn't WHAT HE WANTED TO HEAR and hes already attacked basically every single person that tried to help him! We both offered proven tips and instructions on what to do but he JUST KNOWS FOR SURE IT'S THE ChIP....He also said a wrong TCR don't matter and basically anything even with a flat curve should run in temp mode BECAUSE HE WANTS IT TO AND THINKS IT SHOULD....You can't help someone like this and frankly shouldn't even bother......Sorry for the rant but it just really gets under my skin that I tried to help like everyone else on here with KNOWN FACTUAL ways to get him fixed up and he talks to us all like dogs.F***k that!!!! Maybe he will design us a "Correct working Chip"

Yea I'm sure u could find one from them that would fit.....don't know what size for sure but they usually have big power in smaller than usual sizes.....I have a maxamps 2250 in my 3d printed mod......find your batteries exact dimensions from the site u got it or measure it......go to www.maxamps.com and look at there 11.1 3s lipos until u find one that is NO bigger in dimensions than the one that came in it because the one that came in it is WAY TO TIGHT......u will find something that will fit.....They make the best lipos in my honest opinion. ...There a bit pricey compared to other cheaper brands but they are well worth it and have a lifetime warranty

I know a lot of people are having trouble with SS because of its flat TCR and there are so many different grades and even when u pick the right grade on Steam Engine your wire could still be a little different. ....It's real hard to get the perfect curve using SS because of all its irregularities. ....It's not a problem with the chip or its features but with wire manufacturers and their lack of releasing their products TCR's and the ingredients of the wire....And like I said earlier SS is not very well suited and accurate for Temp Limiting but WILL work if u get an accurate TCR and build a solid stable connection. ....I know some people have had to use say 304 TCR instead of 316 and so on to get it to not kick out and vase right....I have read about some being annealed and some not and if I'm not mistaken the "L" means annealed I think.......Try searching this forum in the search section for the words "SS" or "stainless" or "316" ,"304","317" with or without the "L"......I hope this helps....I know your frustrated but I'm pretty confident if u do the searches I said you will find a solution. ...good luck!

???......that is the same thing

............wheeeeeeew!

13000!?!?.......did u mean 1300 lol

In the mod tab under electrical kanthal max resistance it is set to 100 by default....change it to 200 then upload settings....your battery might be sagging to 3.09 when firing but I kinda doubt it.......oh ya I bet your watt hour calculator is set wrong....that battery isn't actually 1800 mah it's like a 1500 .......Under mod tab and then under battery type 14.43 in the capacity box then upload settings

Do note that he said 1220 MAH not WH......although the 1998WH does sound high......u have to do a calculation to convert it to WH or WATT HOURS

I don't think think that will fit in there.....he was just talking about the battery life on that one.....but it is a maxamps 2000 mah 11.1 3s lipo found on maxamps.com

What size boxes r those? Looks like a P and a B

Take a Dremel or something to the inside of the wood box and grind some off til u have enough room to get the nut on there...........or just sand the whole top of the inside of the box down til u have enough of the 510 sticking out

+1

you could make your lock screen with the same image or logo and just lock it or unlock it to show it off