scoopy

BOBC ....no actually ud have better battery life with the 3s or 2s by about 1 and a half times the 18650 life

VERY FUCKIN NICE. .......what box did u make that out of.....is it a B or something else.....what faceplate/screen holder is it.......I would love to buy one just like that.....are u making any to sell?......AGAIN VERY FUCKIN NICE! !

Yea I like that idea.....I'd like to put the battery percentage in place of the temp when in kanthal mode

Ahhh.....its under the screen tab.....The section on the top left (sorry I'm not lookin at escribe right now) set all the selections in the drop down to general or default..... yours is actually showing up battery total voltage right now instead of the output voltage to the atty

U can get a 3s or 2s battery that isn't much bigger at all compared to a single 18650...The fully max 900 11.1 3s battery isn't much bigger than and 18650 especially if it's in a sled.......try looking up some lipo sizes and I think you'll be happy to know there are some in the size range u r looking for.....look in the "let's see your 200's" thread and there's some single 18650 sized squonkers in there sporting a 3s lipo

I have a altered (stretched 3d printed case from shapeways) beta reference case and when installing the board/screen I folded the ribbon gently into a kinda "W" shape in between the board and chip as to clear the fire button.....U can fold the ribbon once it says in the spec sheet as long as your gentle

That's what came on my max amps 2250 battery and I'm running 14 from the board to a male XT 30 connector and connecting that to the female end XT 30 on the 12 gauge wire of the battery and mine has been fine ......I don't think it can really be to big just as long as it's big enough

Did u get some 14 gauge for your 510 connection. ...remember that's the recommended size for that connection.....don't know if u accidently typed 24 or if u really plan on using it.....I'm thinking the latter though lol

Buttercup....ya I see that now thanks but when it was first posted it didn't say it anywhere

Just remember you need at least 14 gauge from the "out" to the 510 and the ground out to 510 unless your grounding it to the case with board screws....you can leave the stock buttons on and still use a different fire switch....just solder the wires to the thru hole points on the side of the board

Ahh....do you have the battery fully hooked up or just the balance leads Do you have it set to 2s in escribe

Maybe they went with the lipo cuz it has to have it for 200 watts and they wanted 200 watts for the perfect preheat......I don't know just rambling here lol.....and with it being 200 watts it blows all other boards and mods out of the water in every way... true power.....temp control that actually has power behind it now... escibe.....The list goes on and on......I know until something better comes out and that will be quite a while I'd say... .Every mod I order will definitely have this chip

Maybe the eeprom chip could be damaged

Whether they put the buttons on or not u can still connect your choice of buttons and connect them to the thru hole pinouts on the side of the board....u can leave the original buttons on and still use the aftermarket buttons with no problem......unless u absolutely have to have the original ones off that's a different story

Ya I hear ya.... although you can build one on the rba base with nickle.....and they are coming out with nickel coils and a rba base that allows u to do dual coils......I heard that in one of the reviews I watched

Glad to be of help....yea I found it kinda dumb to especially since the preheat is set to 200....don't know why they set that to 100 when it's a 200 watt mod ....u can test it out on a dripper...just build say a .1 to .15 dual coil setup and it will handle well over a 100 watts..... I have a twisted messes rda with a dual fused clapton @.15 ohms and running it at 100- 120 all day all the time and it can handle 150 maybe more

Yea I was thinking the same thing.....man it would be nice to have Zip charging for sure....I also don't understand why they put the screen on the friggin bottom lol.....I mean especially with all the custom screens u can set and it being such a nice big display you would definitely want to be able to see them......I still like it though.....They also do not state anywhere what size the battery is although I'm pretty sure it's 900-1000 mah

In escribe under the mod tab under electrical u got the kanthal max power limit set to 100.....its set to that by default so change it to 200.....also I bet the tank u tried might have been the Smok TFV4....its a bad ass tank and has a triple and quadruple stock coil....I'm ordering one this weekend

Just seen the Vaporshark DNA 200 has been released and I noticed it has 2a zip charging.How did they implement 2a charging when the board only supports 1a.Just curious how they did this cut I would like to make mine do zip charging if possible

That's sweet as hell!

Nice Ratari. .....is that a mitec switch(where can I get one of the mitecs and the vamo buttons) did u have a machine do the cutouts for the buttons and screen or how do u precisely cut them out nice...is that box bigger than a 1590B. ...does that have the lean in it? What exactly did u use for the plexiglass window.....how did u do it....sorry for all the dumb questions but I got a 3d printed box with a max amps 2250 and like it but I like the Hammond box look especially the litt up customs 44 mod..... so in short I'm wanting to take the next step and do a Hammond but I don't have all the cnc machines and what not so didn't know how to do it and look good.....guess the faceplate route would be the best way?

And u can now use 2 18650s as well but limited to 133 watts

What battery do you have in that Does it take lipos or 18650.....It looks like maybe 18650. ..... Love that boxer looking mod.....great job

Maybe John, Brandon or James can help get this lined out as I've had no issues with any of the firmware updates.....If they don't post in this thread try pming them

Hmmm...sounds like your trying to reload the firmware the right way.....have u ever updated firmware before? Have u tried a different cable?