engmia

What do you mean it doesn't run? The clock changes to say 22:00 if you set it to that, but when you lock the device in 5 minutes it is still at 22:00?

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that I'm using exclusively spaced coils as well (ease of use + health concerns with dry burning). I've found sourcing those 510 attachments expensive and hard in Europe, but if you have a good deal for one go for it, it's something that will always come in use and you might use to calibrate. However the issue you are describing is not caused by the internal mod resistance setting and will not be solved by running the case analyser. In fact for the mod which I have built I have set mine to 0. I've tried adjusting it a bit, but didn't have too good results so adjusted back to 0 and I find it to be accurate compared to other mods. Having an inaccurate internal mod resistance will cause some differences between the temperature shown on screen and the actual temperature of the coil (which you can mitigate by changing the temp setting on the mod) but it will not cause random jumps in the resistance reading or the issues you are describing. What you're describing might be caused by one of three issues (troubleshoot as listed, as they are listed by ease of troubleshooting): 1) Wrong CSV profile -- although you already said you are using Daniel's profile, try re-downloading it and uploading it back to the device. Also try the SteamEngine SS316L profile which I have been using and has been working great for me for the last two years. 2) Loose connection betweenn atomiser and 510 or loose connection between 510 and the board -- causing the mod to lose connection to the atomiser for a second, then when the atomiser is "re-attached" reading the resistance of the heated coil and asking same/new since the resistance has change too much inbetween the lost connection and the subsequent reconnect. Should not happen at all if everything is operating normally -- like I said it should only ask you in the case that you actually changed the coil. 3) If you have verified that the above two, there are not a lot of options left: -Fake wire. You are using the correct profile, no loose connections -- means the wire you are using is claiming to be SS316L but it actually is not. It's not a clean wire and not formulated the way SS316L should be. As such, in reality it is not SS316L and you are using the wrong TCR profile for the wire. This will explain the issues you're having. If that is the case, do NOT play with the TCR values but rather toss-out the wire and to tell us who the vendor was... -Faulty board (sounds quite unlikely in this scenario, but not impossible). To rule this out, try a different atomiser and a different coil which you have verified and know work well with temperature control

I'm using an LG HG2 on the Lost Vape Mirage without any issues. Sounds like something might be wrong with the battery, how old it is? Getting a weak battery warning at 50% means that the battery sag is too big at that point and you are trying to push the battery too much, as such it can't deliver the requested power. Are you getting the same warning on say 25 watts? And are you sure the other mods are delivering the wattage they are saying? And very important, have you tried another battery inside the mod? The fact that it doesn't charge is extremely strange, and might mean either there is a fault with the specific board, or the battery is dying. As far as I know the on-board charger on the board doesn't have charging for batteries that have fallen too low in voltage (0v charge) so that's why it might be charging on the external one. 2.6 volts seems extremely low to me, especially for vaping and ESPECIALLY on the LG HG2 which has a big internal resistance from which you are trying to push 45 watts. What were the manufacturer and Mooch's specifications on those? I remember something around 3 volts, and I keep mine at 3.2 volts cutoff to prolong the cycle-life of the battery.

Something is definitely not right. I only use 0,5mm (24AWG) SS316L and it works flawlessly in temperature control. Is the bottom screw on the GAS GR1 tight? Also I don't quite understand when the board asks for a new coil? It asks for same/new coil only when I replace my coil, as it should. If it asks you this question during your vaping, it's a quick way to find out you have a loose connection either in the atomiser or in the mod/510.

Have you tried with the official .RUN file that James uploaded? Works great for me on Fedora 28. I didn't run it as root (so it doesn't get installed into my root directory) but rather authorized the superuser access when I connected the device and everything seems to be working.

Looking over your "symptoms" I'm sure this is caused by a loose connections somewhere. It might be either in the mod internals, or the atomizer iteself. To narrow this down, do you have another atomizer/coil to test this out with?

The testing firmware has been approved and released as far as I can see. As for the power off feature, what exactly do you mean by that? The device monitors the atomizer resistance for a certain period of time after you take a puff (the "heartbeat" period) and then the device enters full idle mode.

[quote=Vaperkarloz]I think you're right, tried multiple atomizers, so it must be a cheap 510 (just like everything ive experienced with my sdna75 is that they cut corners everyware so bad 510 is possibly the case, at least i got a triade dna250 coming, no dna250 forum though), im new to evolv chips and the community, ill leave other companies aside. Other than the fact that a manufacturer told me they cloned dna75 chip and call it dna 2.0 bad clone attempt (seller kept on insisting i buy a sample..nty) but still, not proffesional and i think that should be made known(i like how the chip verification works for dna tbh, even gives you board production date) I cant fix the spikr so it has to ve a cheap smy component, just like the bad casing...dunno why daniel praised it on tutorial its actually a bad 510.... or where else could they had messed up? Geekvape vt cigar nano and vapethink where all in same sdna range, having those wire presets got me into buying a bad mod i suppose...[/quote] Yes, considering this happens over a several different atomizers, either a cheap/bad 510, bad wiring or any of the other reasons I listed. A person in the other thread mentions their 510 are alright (I don't have any personal experience with the SMY brand) but it might be problem with your particular device (hey accidents happen in mass produced devices). To further help, what atomizers did you test on the device? Also like VapingBad said, it's not forbidden to mention other companies, but it's important to distinguish between Evolv board issues and manufacturer specific issues. I'm a big fan of Evolv boards, they are extremely accurate (watch Phil Busardo reviews, he tests the devices electrical output and puts out extremely useful charts), innovative and now customizable. Now Evolv boards have had problems on their own but constant improvements and addressing of said problems gives a pretty amazing product on the market right now. Many times other companies do mistakes and Evolv take the blame for it, OR as you said, try to copy Evolv boards which is obviously a horrible thing to do. Imagine if you gather some money and spend 2 years at home designing an atomizer. Let's say you get a production cost of 20 USD and decide to put the atomizer on the market for 50 USD because on top of manufacturing and distribution, you need to pay for the 2 YEARS you spent designing the atomizer. Then next morning you wake up, you see the exact same atomizer you designed, using the exact same materials, looking the exact same way. Only some other company is selling a "clone" of your product for 20 USD (just as much as you manufacturer it). How can they afford it? Well easy, they produce bigger quantities so manufacturing price drops and they didn't spent 2 years designing the atomzier, they haven't paid someone's salary for that time and everything, so they don't need to account for that in the final price. Competition is healthy, but there is quite a fine line between taking cues and inspiration from other products (which is normal and illogical if you don't do it) and simply intellectual property theft and cloning and undercutting of devices. [quote=dwcraig1]The 510 on the SMY SDNA75 I consider one of the better ones of the mass produced mods. It is my only DNA mod with a 0.002 ohm mod resistance. The others are 0.004 - 0.005 ohms There is one problem that could easily develop with it and that is they soldered the ground output wire to the nut that holds the 510 body into the case. If the nut becomes loose problems arise. It's certainly easy enough to check and correct. [/quote] You mention the internal resistance is set to 0.002 which is below the norm for other devices. It doesn't make sense that SMY have figured a superior electrical connection and perfect component composure for less internal resistance and managed to sell it for less money (let alone I don't see anything like that going on there). Do you think there's a chance the mod just isn't properly configured? [b]EDIT:[/b] Vaperkarloz check out this thread that I just noticed. It seems the issues you are experiencing are not new for the SMY model and reported by other users. I suppose if you search you might find other useful threads on the forum as well. A bad connection and random errors like this will always give you flaky resistance and bad experience in temperature control.

[quote=JamezC]So, it takes a little while for the board to get an accurate reading of the cold resistance? Also, vaping at a lower wattage, I'm guessing that affects the refinement process?[/quote]No, you should attach the atomizer when both the mod and coil/atomizer are at room temperature to get an accurate cold resistance reading. Refinement keeps monitoring the resistance when your coil cools off, and well.. refines the resistance reading. Usually those values should be incredibly small though, and you should get the cold resistance right off the bat. If you have normal behaviour, you shouldn't have to wait for the board to get accurate, and vaping at lower wattages definitely doesn't affect the refinement process.

[quote=xddaaweex]Unfortunately, the retailer does not offer more than a few days warranty, so... Anybody know what Volcano will charge me? I'll be consoling myself with my new HexOhm V3. No PCB, no worries. Well, maybe a few.[/quote]It's not possible for the retailer to offer less warranty than the OEM. Maybe they offer a couple of days warranty on devices that don't have OEM warranty, but on devices that do, the correct procedure is contacting the retailer with description of the problem, pictures and receipt.

[quote=VapingBad]Please stop posting extensively about other devices, this forum is for people to discuss DNAs there are plenty of places on the internet to compare products. I am not saying never mention other devices, but it is too likely to start arguments and attract negative comment about those devices and this forum is not here to criticise the rest of the market. [/quote] I was going to post bad comments about other devices, but now you made me feel bad. [quote=]Thats what i thought when i first got device, two days into using it i realized locking was a must the no locking is probably a kanthal coil thing. You have to lock it. Sure gona sell that junk anyways, ordered a red triade dna250. Back to topic as far as ive seen be it single strand guage or clapton ss. The resistance needs locking at room temp. Ir you wont have a consistent vape specially with the weather. I was wrong at first with the no locking crap, i never got a dna200 and just had 75 for some 3-4+ weeks(used it heavyly like 80 cycles on cell so far). watch daniel tutorial tho Edit: its anoying when joyetech deletes the post every time on fb page, sorry for venting here. Meh this is as accurate as my reader but gives me to two exta decimals... ohm meter is useless now... if only the device could wind coils and make claptons, wouldn't need rest of items! I actually like how it works with the cells, drops voltage to provide the wattage. It pretty much does with a full battery 30a cdc on vtc5, mooch tested it and was specifically commenting that vtc5 only does 30a cdc at 3.6 v or under. Perfect for this one. Btw that's my shitty Sdna75 case. Still working on getting a parallel shell for the chip. Although case is sturdy so idk[/quote]I don't see where you're going with this. As far as Joyetech deleting your posts go, I hope you can appreciate the difference in attitude between the companies and have a hard look before you start praising other companies on specific forums. You were already asked something once, please keep on topic. Let me try my best to help you. I've owned a DNA board for over an year now (just recently upgraded to DNA 75, my first one was DNA 40) and I can assure you what you're experiencing is not normal. It could be caused by a couple of things: 1. Loose connection between the atomizer and 510 2. Bad soldering and wiring from the 510 to the board 3. Not properly configured device/board 4. Bad/not intended for TC Atomizer design (for example current passing through a string) TC is an extremely sensitive technology in regards to ohms, and even .002 ohm difference can make a big difference in the temperature of the vape, especially for wires with lower coefficient of resistance (like stainless steel). Now this might seem like a bit too hard have all of those different components perfectly aligned, but in reality it's not that hard. If your box mod and atomizer are properly designed, built, connected and configured you shouldn't experience a change and drifting in ohms. That's why Evolv recommends not locking ohms -- the option is there if you still need it, but if you need to use it one of the above listed factors is not right and you're not getting the experience you should have. You should rather focus on addressing the issue, then using locked ohms, since if you resolve it your experience will always be better. You can test your atomizer connection using Escribe's Atomizer Analyzer. You should also checked if the case analyzer has been ran and properly configured for your mod, internal resistance, battery settings and wire profiles (especially coefficient of resistances). The SMY DNA 75 is one of the cheapest devices on the market with a DNA 75 board which usually comes at the cost of quality control, it's safe to assume that one of the above is an issue. Devices with faulty profiles, wrong values for the case and generally wrongfully configured from manufactures is not something new. You can find plenty of threads around the forum of people compaining the profile their device came with doesn't work properly (NOTE: those are not Evolv's default profiles, but the OEM's modified profiles -- SMY in this particular case). Phil Busardo has extremely comprehensive reviews on the board and you can generally rely on him for the most extensive reviews on devices. If you have any more questions, please sent me a PM or start another thread here. I do apologize for the off-topic.

This behaviour is observed from the DNA board when you remove the battery.. I would first assume a not proper 18650 connection, however if we combine with the "Shorted" error you got it definitely sounds like faulty wiring. You can contact the company for warranty.

That looks pretty normal and is caused because there is only 1 LED installed on the DNA 75 board by default (below the fire button as you can observe in the pictures). To make this fully illuminated you either need to introduce a second LED or a very well done and smart diffuser that manages to spread the light evenly to the top.

[quote=xddaaweex]Thanks for the prompt response! I contacted Volcano about their warranty, because it's less than 6 weeks old, but I haven't heard back yet. I purchased it from MyFreedomSmokes and the Volcano website implies that they only warranty items bought from their own website, so I'm not sure what to expect. Fingers crossed while I go back to vaping like a damn caveman without your chip.[/quote]Absolutely correct. If you purchased the device through a retailer and not the OEM, you contact the person (retailer) who sold the item to you. From there they resolve the issue according to their own policies and agreements with the OEM. But you can't go straight to the OEM for support (unless you purchased it directly from him obviously), your receipt is the proof for your purchase, and you wouldn't be able to keep track of devices otherwise.

[quote=joeong]Thanks for this! hopefully it'll be implemented in officially soon[/quote]This is officially implemented... Well let me expand and clarify on that -- Evolv have officially implemented it by allowing you to do this "workaround". The premise here is that high temperatures, even for a short time, can create toxic and carcinogenic chemicals in the vapor that you want to avoid (the reason temperature control was invented). That's why it's only recommended to run Titanium, Stainless Steel and Nickel in TC mode -- so you avoid oxidation and toxic chemicals. Now of course I can see how this can have very useful applications -- such as high mass coils like Claptons. In this case, it's incredible easy if you know what you're doing to workaround the software restrictions and use preheat in Kanthal as per the guide above. However new users, especially just switching from cigarettes, do NOT know (or rarely) about different wire differences, let alone wire safety. Preheat in Kanthal can be wildly unpredictable -- is the user using a normal coil, is he using a clapton coil, is he using an alien coil? The preheat features is very well developed in the DNA board and Escribe software (I personally haven't seen as customizable board/preheat function). They haven't "gotten lazy" or "forgot to implement" preheat in Kanthal. The reason they feel it's safe to implement it in TC is because they monitor and control the temperatures. And the lack of this monitoring is exactly the reason it's the way it currently is, I think it should stay that way, I fully support their decision. For advanced users that are looking for the function and know what they're doing, it's extremely easy to implement using only the Escribe software. DISCLAIMER: PREHEAT IN KANTHAL CAN BE DANGEROUS! I in no way condone or suggest using preheat in Kanthal mode. Use this method only if you know what you are doing, at your own knowledge and risk.

[quote]Hi Guys, It ain't working on my Triade - DNA200. Temp climbs as in TC mode but stops at the set power setting... Any clues ?[/quote]That is what is supposed to happen, it's working as intended. This is merely a guide for preheat in Kanthal mode, not postheat. Preheat generally means the device will fire at a higher (depends on how the particular device/model is set) power burst than the set one for a short period of time at the start. This workaround is allowing you to enable and customise (since the Evolv software allows it) Preheat in Kanthal. I'm downloading the CSV file without problems, for anyone having issues though (many people in this thread seem to) -- the original post by @gorman explains simply how to easily implement it on your own device using only the Escribe software. You just need to create a flat temperature curve and change the point values by the minimum possible. DISCLAIMER: PREHEAT IN KANTHAL CAN BE DANGEROUS! I in no way condone or suggest using preheat in Kanthal mode. The premise here is that high temperatures (even for a short period of time) can cause formation of toxic and carcinogenic chemicals in the vapor which you want to avoid (the reason temperature control was invented). I understand how this can be an extremely useful feature in certain scenarios (high mass coils that are slow to heat up), however preheat in Kanthal can be unpredictable since there is no limit on the temperature. Use this method only if you know what you are doing, at your own knowledge and risk.

If you're having problems with the device going out of TC mode and you are 100% sure you have the right settings in Escribe (316L stainless steel profile downloaded from Steam Engine, imported and set to a profile in Escribe; uploaded, and activated as a profile on your device) you might want to contact the retailer. I'm currently using 316L without any problems on my DNA 75 chip.

[quote]I would try removing the screws in the top and bottom of the body, and sliding the battery tube/body away from the frame. You will see the 75 board held in place by three screws, two at the top of the board and one in the bottom left. If you can, make sure those screws are snug, even a 1/4 turn sometimes can be the difference between a good stable resistance reading and an unstable one. Make sure to use the appropriately sized drivers as the screws can be easy to strip if your driver doesn't fit right.[/quote]Nick is this applicable only when you haven't soldered a negative wire from the 510 to the board and the screws are acting as negatives?

Not experiencing this on my DNA 75 mod.. The only thing I can hear except the atomizer even with my ear pressed against the mod is the acutator pressing the button.

[quote=John]Linux on the desktop is not even an asterisk's worth of marketshare. Will we do a Mac version? Yes. Will we do it by a programmer employed by Evolv, in house? Yes. If you feel that smok makes a better product or has a better direction, feel free to go buy their configurable 200w product. If you feel smugly assured that there will be a clone product eventually, I agree there probably will. Feel free to buy that. Let me know how that goes. Or don't let me know. We aren't doing a Linux port and we aren't interested in volunteers programming.[/quote]Sad to hear your decision on Linux, hopefully it will change in the future. With Linux gotten extremely versatile and improved in recent years (currently using Fedora 24 as my main work OS), I'll definitely make a chicken and an egg argument here. For Linux' market share to increase, native support for software and OEM driver support is the way forward. With big companies like Valve noticing this (they even created their own distribution of Ubuntu) hopefully people will finally start paying attention the OS soon.

[quote=salsadoom] I fiddled around a bit and I found the escribe software works fine on ubuntu 16.04 using wine1.8 (from the ppa) -- except that it doesn't find the device. The menus and all that display just fine though. I think its basically a missing driver at this point since Linux doesn't know what the dna200 is, so a wine program wouldn't either. That said, it does work in Virtualbox alright, although the usb is super slow and it times out occasionally. If someone made a kernel driver for the dna200's (or 75, etc) I think it would probably be fine. It might not be too hard, as AFAIK its just a serial over usb type of thing.[/quote] Can confirm the same on latest Fedora 24. Escribe software seems to be installing and working fine, but the device doesn't connect to the computer (yes, the install USB Driver was checked during installation) [quote=James]salsadoom, the problem is that Wine doesn't have support for Windows's USB HID APIs. I don't think it'd be terribly hard for them to add. Presumably it's just that nobody's up and done it. Humorously, the C# HID library I use, HidSharp, actually does support Linux's native USB HID APIs (though Linux does require you to set udev rules to access HID devices on non-root accounts.)[/quote] James do you reckon this would work (the only alternative I managed to find for Linux) -- http://www.signal11.us/oss/hidapi/ Note: I am aware Virtual Box is a way to look at this problem, but since I'm already dual booting Windows and running out of space on my SSD, wasting 20 GB's for just this application is simply not an option. I'm really only interested in making it run under WINE

Aww yiss, that's awesome! Awesome work Evolv! I hope you plan to expand production. What does no mounting rails mean, I am just about to build my first DNA75 box mod. Is it as easy to build as the DNA75?

Oh temperature dominant is such a nice addition, thanks for the information! I can't wait for my soldering board to finish building my DNA75. Thanks