lewisss

Lipos should not be discharged below 3.0 volts the 3.09 gives a bit of clearance. you could quite safely change your settings to 3.09 the standard V for a lipo cell is 3.7v so it is no wonder yours is cutting out so quickly

Sorry I am late but this is what i have found works best for me! now I know there will be those of you that will say i am not using this in temperature control, but when my dripper runs out of juice i can feel it backing off so the temp control is working. Ni200 I can quite happily set my temp and put the power at 200 watts and know that when the temperature reaches my setting the curve will flatten out and stay level at that temp till the juice runs out. MY THEORY Stainless :- we have seen that as the csv for stainless is such a shallow curve a very small increase in resistance = a large increase in temp . so the dna 200 has to keep cutting out and adding power leading to ss being an inconsistent vape. not so much inconsistent but more ''thin'' , NI200 has practically a constant power going through it once it reaches the set temp whereas with SS the DNA 200 chip is just not fast enough to keep up with the minute changes of resistance. So we need to work around this. and this is what i have done. below there are three screenshots from device monitor. the first one {ss100JPG} is how i would normally set up NI200. temperature where i want it 400f, and power at 100 watts. and as you can see we have the usual unstable pattern when we reach temperature which leads to the thin, weak vape. the second one[ss20} is dropping the power to 20 watts and increasing the temp to 440F here the temp and power jump up with the preheat punch and then the temp dips before climbing again. This also leads to a thin weak vape. the last one {SS40} is the point i have found with this coil and this juice a get excellent result temp 440f power 40 watts. although the temp never reaches my target temperature it hits immediately with the preheat punch and then just climbs steadily till i stop drawing on it. So yes I know it is a bit of a PITA but it is worth working with the tools we have to get this result. why? because not only am i getting a nice consistent thick vape. I am also getting back the subtleties of flavour in the juice as the heat ramps up. something I didn't realise I was missing until i tried this. **the graph was set at 15 seconds and the average puff was 3.5 seconds** Have a go if you have time. I think it is worth it. ss 100.bmp ss20.bmp ss40.bmp

Hi, I posted here my cvs file for vt200 battery , the setting came out at 11.09 The file there is a text file but if you save it as a .csv file it will work /topic/66238-topic/

Hi I have been struggling too with stainless steel for a while as it is a dream to work with and I do have a work around where I have got the vape exactly how I want it! It does involve using escribe and it is just a way of changing the settings slightly on my ss profile so that the device makes the chip and temp control work a different way. When I get home tonight I will get some screen shots and run through some examples of what I do. Currently running a 2.5mm 9wrap dual spaced coil of 317L .5mm 0.18 ohms at 440f and 55watts. On a velocity and Hcigar vt200 And it is great! I am using the steam engine ss317 csv With this system you should be able to do any ss coil and get the same results. Sorry to make you wait , but I am working at the moment. Will post back in about 8 hours

I am not sure what bandgap is, but if you go into escribe, then click on help, then about escribe then click on the evolv logo 7 times. this will put you into a debug mode. when you open device monitor,screen disconnects sample ohms, sample temp and bandgap are displayed. again i know not the usefulness of any of these but i know how to find them!

if that is the hcigar vt200 you are talking about, no it will not, that battery is 106mm long, the external measurement of the vt200 is about 95mm. and it is an XT30 plug on the vt200 also there is room inside the vt200 for a larger battery than the one that is in there. i am just not convinced it is A 1300MAH Battery supplied with it. the battery analyser on mine calculated a true 1000mah.

I think when you lock resistance it is the cold resistance you lock. when you take a hit the resistance will go up as that is how temp control works, you probably notice th ti goes up more proportionately to the ss , where the kanthal will hardly move at all.

I'll sell you one but I'll have to charge you ten bucks. Large post holes and grub screws to get good clamping force on the wire. On the upside, you can use it as a dripper when not running tests lol. https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10014538/3141900-velocity-mini-styled-rda-rebuildable-dripping[/QUOTE] I have one of those 510 adapters!

thanks for that, but i was intending to leave the existing one in place and add the second one as a firt fail fuse so the blade fuse will fail leaving the evolv fuse intact. (they are a nightmare to replace! i just wanted to know if the blade is likely to blow before the schurter one

thinking of doing that anyway between the battery +ve and the B+ as a second fuse, but I would want the blade fuse to go first as it will be a damn sight easier to replace, which would be likely to go first? the car blade type fuses are for use in a 12 V system and the shurter fuses evolve use are rated at 63V and they are a delay/slow blow fuse It has been a long time since I studied electronics bt I think the car fuse willl go first any thoughts?

it?[/QUOTE] This all there is to it. Simply wire your power source to the B +/- pads. Be sure to go into escribe and set your boards to use a Power Supply instead of a battery. Balance taps remain unwired. Don't forget to use an appropriate gauge wire for the length of lead you plan to have![/QUOTE] Can I ask what power supply you have in there? Is it 150A output? Is it a switching or linear psu?

No battery, 125 amp AC > DC 12v Power Supply.[/QUOTE] I would like to build a set up like that Nick, ( I am about to go into production of a juice line.) How are the boards wired? Is it simply the 12v DC output from the power supply wired directly to the B+ & B- on the board? And the balance taps left unconnected? Or is there something more to it?

i second this! i am old so my reaction times are slow! seriously going up and down 5 times to increase by 10 watts is a pain

Hi, all you have to do is run the escribe software, and connect your mod, there are 8 profiles you can set up to your own preference. with the steam engine calc, there is a dna 200 csv you can download from steam engine for each combination of wires you are using. load that into your profile and then upload the settings to your mod

You want to try living in the uk! We use Fahrenheit in the summer! " ooh what a scorcher heatwave hits 105 degrees" And Celsius in the winter "Black ice warning for motorists as temperatures expected to be -6 degrees"

The three fields to the left of the main readout are all customisable through escribe. So you can select voltage as a permanent display,

Thanks for that, I just waiting for a chip back from evolv and your design will be used! Always wanted a squonk box , shame about the battery size, but I have a 2200mah 3s in my original dna but it is a bit of a brick! What buttons did you use there? And is that the squonk kit from mod makers as well?

Josh, could you post pictures of the mods you are having trouble with and pictures of the boards.? just to confirm it is the boards and not the builds

Personally it is a feature i would like and have asked for in a different thread, . /topic/67543-topic/?do=findComment&comment=907884 just the option to display temp instead of power in the largest field, and when it is in that format to be able to change temp just by holding +&- buttons. without locking first

Hi, I hope someone can help, I built my mod a week ago and everything was working perfectly, i have run all the production tests, battery analyser, and case analyser. everything was working perfectly until just now! I had the unit hooked up to escribe and it was great then as i took it off of the` mini usb i heard a 'pop' and the screen went blank.on inspection the fuse had blown. fortunately i ordered a spare fuse just in case when i ordered the board but before .replacing it i took the board off and visually inspected it to make sure there were no obvious signs of metal contactin metal where it shouldnt. i couldn't see any so replaced the fuse (not straight but good contact) plugged in the battery and 'pop' again fuse 2 down the drain! So did some continuity testing B- to B+ = open as expected B+ to bottom of blown fuse = short as expected B- to top of blown fuse =short not expected therefore when the fuse is intact the battery terminals are effectively shorted. I needn't have gone on but here are some other readings for information B- to three ground = short as expected B- to ground 501 output =short as expected B- to +ve 501 output = Short, not expected i cut off the 501 connector to check that was not a problem and it wasn't B- is also shorted to outboard switch pins No 2,3,6 expected and the three mounting hole pads. also expected the 4 conections for the balance port have no shorts between themselves, nor B+ and B- any ideas, or is the board shot? if so what do i do next?

sorry, i have obviously not been clear, that is on the theme page i believe you are talking about, and that will only show for a few seconds after hitting temp protec. I am talking about on the main screen where my preference would be- field 1 (small left) resistance field2 (small left) battery % field 3 (small left) Power Field 4 (large right, currently unable to assign anything but the default power) Temperature so it is the larger font field on the main screen i wish to change to the right of the three smaller fields

This is what I use for the battery analyser. (No "z" in the uk) Got a mixed pack of power resistors from maplin and used 4x 1 ohm into a velocity deck, 2200mah takes over 2 hours at 40w

Hi I just wondered if there could be a way to choose what is displayed on the large right field rather than just power. personally in tc mode the power display is pointless to me it would be nice to have the option to change that to temperature (my prefered option like the way the screen looks when you actually change temp) or battery charge or any of the others. this would be even more useful for the charging screen, as i dont need to see what the power is during charging. I know this would not be used for those of you that use kanthal but i use tc exclusively.

Nope, mod resistance for VS200 came factory set to 0.007, and that accounts for the 0.275 to 0.268 difference btw Raw Ohm and Nominal (Kanthal). Honestly that 0.261 to 0.251 difference escapes me. More generally, if the Nominal(Temp) thing is the value of Nominal(Kanthal) value, but normalized to reference temp, I can't understand what's the difference with the cold ohm value. But there must be some difference, as I always get different values between Nominal(Temp) and Cold Ohm with every atty I tried. Could it be that Nominal(temp) is the value it would acquire as the Cold Ohm value if you were connecting the atty in that condition for the first time? I.e. 0.261 would become my cold ohm if I could force the chip to re-acquire the Cold Ohm base resistance somehow? And it is just not asking for a new coil because the difference is under the configured 25% threshold? Wait a minute, I just remembered the atomizer analyzer has something like a "lock ohm" button. Maybe pressing that will force re-acquisition of the Cold Ohm value with the current Nominal(temp) value as per my "if I could force the chip to re-acquire the Cold Ohm base resistance" above? Unfortunately I'm away with no access to my escribe installation, could anybody try and see if "lock ohm" from the atomizer analyzer makes the Cold Ohm value become what's currently displayed as Nominal(temp)? Sorry no it doesn't