VapingBad

It looks like a 1590A, but you would have to use a extended 3D printed cover it that with a reasonable battery, I made one with the screen on the side using the original lid a sheet of perspex would fit as well link.

It's not set to power supply battery type is it, that would explain it. A long shot, but worth checking. You could also try a different fw version, even re-flashing the current one.

You don't need to ground the board if you connect both outputs, the battery and balance connectors. I would not epoxy the whole board as it would be difficult to remove and inhibit air cooling the components, but you could use epoxy where the screw mounts go. There a few 3D prints available that you can glue in the box then screw the board to that you may find easier. For the USB cut out I just drill a hole at each end, 3 mm IIRC, grind out the centre with a dremel and finish off with a needle file.

It doesn't stick on it's own, once it is in place gently push the clip down into place to lock it (the opposite direction to the arrow in the picture).

Please have a look at this John, people have misread the FAQ to believe 1 x 18650 is going to happen.

Apparently the entry in the FAQ is misleading as it does not state it is about charge per cell some people are under the impression that a FW update will allow the board to run from a single 18650.

It's in this forum, same section as this Software and Firmware > EScribe Software Download and Tutorial

See post #11 here

I have been using this version for a few days and all good including override ohms and res lock, like the resistance on the new/same coil prompt.

OK here Win8.1 64bit USB3 & USB2 almost 500 mA

Or a pose function that calls up you're custom start screen

No I am vaping at around 40 W ATM, but had the preheat up to 200 W, but with genesis a 100 W is enough. The VT is working well the lowest resistance I have used so far is 0.06 ohm and the temp sensing is still very sensitive. I stretched the spring to make it firmer, and had to open the hole for the positive wire a little to take the 12 AWG with the insulation. You need to tin the positive pin well and use fluw in it to avoid to much solder going alone the wire and making it stiff as the battery is so close. I have ordered a Velocity to see what extreme high power is like with Nickel.

For cases look at Hammond 1590G and for CNC versions of it on Ebay, it is a good size to start off with. I mounted my board by tapping M1.6 holes in the case, made spacers from some old copper micro-bore pipe I had that was 3.1 mm OD and M1.6 x 10 mm screws. I cut the spacers a little lone then ground then to the exact size with a fibre disc on a dremel, you can add washers or shorten the screws a little to prevent them poking out. This method of mounting will allow any heat, which is not that much anyway to dissipate to the case nicely. I did drill 5 2 mm vent holes in the bottom of the case, but it would also vent out of the USB & screen holes so not everybody does it. I used VT30 connectors for the battery and cut down 5 mm shelf pins for the buttons, 18 AWG silicon wire for the battery and 14 AWG for the output wiring and a Varitube 510 with the spring stretched to provide a bit more pressure. I will add a couple of pics or my one for you to better see what I mean, it is in a Hammond 1590A case, but it is a tight fit and I wouldn't advise trying it for your first build. I used a nono tech 950 mAh battery, but in a 1590G box you will have more options, good luck with your build.

I wasn't talking about your mod, but about the one in the post I quoted

Well done, but it looks like you have the thin & thick wires in the wrong places, the thickest is normally for the output not the battery.

Good luck @malcbtz

You're welcome

Just set the kanthal limit in Escribe - mod tab - electricial - Kanthal power limit

Yes it is 3s and more than enough ampage.

Tricky I don't know what else to suggest apart form saying that it is easy to get a dry/poor joint on the positive of some 510 connections with a hole the wire goes into. Good luck.

I just used a Hammond 1590A not using common ground, and used 1 mm thick copper ground ring under the 510 nut with 14 AWG to the board negative output.

Grounding by the chassis does work, just need to do it well and remove any anodising on the ground point. pg 16 of the data sheet

I think the grounding has to be very good with these and I would think a poor contact with common ground or a dry solder joint would give you problems like you describe.

It wont ask if the resistances are close to each other, 25% is the default value it can be changed in the Mod tab - Thermal - Ohm Lock Range

the atomizer analyzer has both kanthal and nickel, you can tell it has picked up nickel by the temp showing as the last of the 3 fields on the dna screen.