VapingBad

It only asks new/same coil if the resistance is within 25% of the last coil (this can be changed in Escribe) You only need to make a TCR for wire other than Ni200 or Kanthal I almost never lock ohms, if you lock them then the DNA can not refine them for greatest accuracy.

They like round numbers.

Interesting 3 W is not that much and goes to show that the wattage control is still important although many believe it is not, I would vape with both these settings connected to device monitor to try and understand what the difference is. This is not related exactly, but on the 40 if you turn temp limiting off you get a cooler vape because the pre heat didn't cut in.

IIRC they changer the temp limit form max to average so maybe turn the temp down a bit, personally I never gone above 420 F, normally @ 380 F. Other than that are they both reading the cold resistance the same?

You have my sympathy and have bee extremely unlucky, but random chance has no memory and after being unlucky once doesn't make you more or less likely to be unlucky again, although it does not fell like that. It is impossible to know what caused the problems from that much info, in a wood box you can still bridge the solder onto the vias, trap the screen cable or damage the board handling it, not saying that happened just that it is just as easy to do those things in a wood or plastic box. Most importantly I hope it all gets sorted for you ASAP.

Not a lot to go on, I don't want to blame unknown mod makers as you may have just been unlucky with the boards, but most of the problems I have read about were caused by the way they were fitted. There are a couple of things that can cause problems if the mod maker is not careful: letting the screen cable get trapped by the fire switch, soldering bridging vias near pads and oversized mountings that can cause shorts. John has said maybe he could have left more room for the mountings, pad and screen cable, but it is what it is and can be fitted without problems like any electronic component in that you need to fit it within it's spec and double check everything. I am not saying there have been no faulty boards, but I think it is only a low percentage of those out there.

I don't believe the rumour, having 2 for over 2 months with zero problems and following this and other forums, sure there have been problems with the way people have fitted the boards causing them to fail and a few boards have failed, but nothing worrying IMO. What mod do you have?

As with all regulated devices you need to think in Watts each side of the converter and allow for electrical efficiency. The board is 97% efficient so when it provides 200W to the coil it needs 207W from the battery, the amps will be highest when the battery is lowest (9V) so the current needed from the battery at 9V to supply 207W is 207W/9V = 23A (P/V). It doesn't matter what the coil ohms.

Whatever works for you is right and I'm not trying to tell other folks how to vape just how I see it. These devices are temp limiting, not temp control or temp protected. I would like it to be easier to get to the temp adjustment, but I always have it at the min that gives me good clean flavour, usually 380F, but some builds need a bit more. I never change the temp once I have the build & liquid combination set, I don't often change the wattage either TBH, but I do so much more so than the temp. Think of it this way if you max the power and set the temp you are mainly setting the power by the build, particularly it's resistance like we used to with mechs. It works, but if you build your atty so you have some head room power wise you have more adjustment. Just adjusting the temp is a limited as once the whole coils is at the temp that vaporises the liquid there is no more upward adjustment and the temp the liquid vaporises is always the same for a given liquid. Particularly if you are after a build where you just like to turn it up now and again I think it is better to still keep the temp as low as you can to keep the flavour cleaner and more importantly avoid high temps. Sorry that is a poor explanation, but in a rush.

You can dry burn without making the coil glow by setting temp to 600 F, than either quench in cold water, give it a blast in an ultrasonic or a blast with a hand-held steam cleaner, all these work for me.

I understood perfectly and I have no problem with it as an option just not as a default, watts are still the main adjustment for vapour volume, if you need to up the temp to get more vapour you probably need more contact area for your coil or more airflow.

It has been posted before. I would not max the watts in temp mode, the watts still adjust the amount of vapour same as VW. I have seen a few complaints of nasty hits supposedly dripping out of temp limiting especially if using low TCR wires and this just wouldn't happen if the user had not had the wattage turned up over what is sensible. I have not objection to it as an optional feature, just never as a default, the temp lock ruined the DNA40 for me because it meat there is no power lock for temp limiting operation.

I think the main purpose is so the heat from charging can be taken into account in temp limiting and refinement.

Yes charging, monitoring etc will work, select LiPo in Escribe.

You're welcom

sorry plus & minus or up & down

The device holds all 8 profiles, I may be wrong but yours is a short description and I'm guessing that you have not tried to change the profiles on the device (from power lock (hold + & 1 down for 5 secs) press + twice to go through the profiles and press fire to select the one you want).

It is not for battery safety, it is just so they can put xxx watts on the advertising even though the mod can't actually do it. The 2nd sentence sort of answers it's own question. The bottom line with battery life and vaping power is essentially the efficiency of the converter and I think the DNA200 is about the best there is at 97%.

No, it will always respect the 4.2 V providing the battery type has not been changed from LiPo in Escribe. The USB current seen in Escribe device monitor will be higher as the mod is operational and not necessarily all being used for charging, I set USB current as one of the fields on the DNA charge screen if you do this you can see it drop off when attached to a charger.

The screen brightness defaults to 0% when charging and you need to increase it, it takes about 30 after plugging the USB cable in before the charging screen shows.

You could send a PM on here his username is John

I have put the socket on leads to make space

I would start with GB, but they on holiday for a week ATM. Li battery cells should never be charged above 4.25 V, do you have a meter to check the voltages of the battery cells and confirm the readings Escribe shows as it may just be a bad battery pack.

I didn't notice that, good point and it may be best to return the mod.

I think you will need to do a recovery charge as Cell 1 is 0 V, hopefully the battery is not had it. Its under the Diagnostics button Advanced options in device monitor.