Jump to content

Rich Smith

Members
  • Posts

    7
  • Joined

  • Last visited

    Never

Rich Smith's Achievements

Member

Member (2/3)

0

Reputation

  1. On a kanger sub tank I use just a simple 7-8 wrap 28g single coil. When it's time for re-wicking I end up having to rebuild as I've read not to dry burn off gunk like with kanthal. Is it really unsafe to dry burn Nickel? I can usually get the cotton out (not always!) but then left with gunky nickel. Thanks for any help or advise!
  2. Get some 28g nickel and use the rba. 8 wraps on 2.5mm should meter somewhere around .12. Check and recheck screws are tight! For whatever reason I only use this on Hana DNA 40s, on a vapor shark rdna 40 I use 7 wraps and meters out at .10 (on the device) and is perfect. 19ish watts at 430 and never hit temp control, great flavor and decent vapor. My Hana V200 is back in Illinois. I could not get anything to stay stable with the same exact tanks and builds. Hopefully when I get it back will be able to experiment with lower resistenses.
  3. Has anyone sent theirs back and had good service from Hana?
  4. Candles, I could not agree more! If only I waited and read your post I would not have this $200 pos and feel like a neglected lab rat. I've spent a fortune on Hanas and dealt with a few minor issues with mediocre customer service that were eventually resolved. Never again.
  5. Has anyone, or Hana, figured out there are several with a 510 problem? I've called several times, no answer. I did not leave a message. I imagine they are scrambling about now to get production V200s out. When I had a v4 mini, it read resistense wrong. Paid to send it back, they replaced it, same issue right out of the box. They said it might have been a grounding issue. In kanthal as you guys know it's not as big of a deal, in nickel it is! They ended up letting me trade in the mini for a 2nd v4 slim. It and my other 2 dna 40s are relatively perfect. This V200 is acting the same way as the v4 mini and I am beyond frustrated! They should have made clear pre-production models may have bugs! I would gave opted out of spending 200 if I knew exactly what I might be getting into. I'm fine with learning how to use escribe, but with a wonky 510, what's the point? If I wanted a 200 watt cloud blowing machine, could have saved a ton of money and headaches. John, if you've read this, can you please ask Hana what they are going to do about all the issues? I didn't spend $200 to become a modder having to tear it apart to try to fix it. If I am asking too much as Evolv only makes the chip, not the device, I apologize for asking.
  6. I wonder if Hana will help us guinea pigs IF they iron out the problems so many are having.
  7. I've had my preproduction V200 for about a week. Also have 3 dna 40s, pre resistance lock. All 3 40s read resistense perfectly and all act the same at the same exact settings for all builds. The 200 shows a lower resistance and goes into temp protect almost immediately, then tastes burnt when put back on a 40 for a bit, after cooling devices and tanks. All I've done is register the device on Evolv and down load the program. Are factory default settings the same? Can they be changed if not? Since getting I have not had the time to sit down at a PC and change settings. I'm using kanger sub tanks with rba deck builds. Have 2 built, one at .12 and one at .15. Like said both work perfectly on the 40s, un-usable on the 200. It doesn't ask if 'new coil' either. Very frustrating! But my screen works perfectly well thus far! The 3 40s are 1 V4D, and 2V4s'. Screen does go wonky on the v4D, but won't send back because everything else is flawless. I did have a v4mini that I sent back and traded for another slim. It was acting similar to the V200. Any advice?
×
×
  • Create New...