VapingBad

Yeah, you can have a colour at each side of each box and a time duration, so it's a fade from left colour to right colour that you can set the time duration for. Left and right could be the same colour then there would not be a fade effect. You can stack these boxes, the default charge setting does this with fade up in 2 seconds and fade down in 1 second to make a more interesting or pleasing flashing light.

UK law is min 12 mouths for non consumables.

Each type would be slightly different, it' no big deal not to have a csv for your battery they only improve the accuracy of the battery gauge and if that is OK I wouldn't worry.

Exactly what I have found Awsum, even my old 25Rs hold up well.

You didn't start anything, good luck with TW.

I think #1 particularly is a very good idea.

I have tried most of the custom TFRs and manual TCR and they make no discernible difference to the smoothness only the temperature calibration. I have never found preheat to cause any issues, not saying others have not, just that I have never seen it. IMO it is more to do with cooling (airflow & wicking), coil geometry and coil thermal mass than the TFR or TCR, so IMO you are better off trying different coils and atties to refine the smoothness YMMV. It will be a lot better when the updated fw is ready for the 200, 316 is very smooth in the DNA 75 and should be close or the same in the 200.

The only thing that comes to mind is external buttons need to be isolated from ground/case.

Getting the old one off is the more difficult part as you should melt the solder at both ends at the same time, ideally with 2 soldering irons but you could heat tweezers with a gas torch. Putting the new one in is easier, you just do one end at a time.

At the bottom it has a text label "Buttons:" and it will have "fire" after that if it is getting the fire button signal. It is a long shot, but worth checking.

When connected to EScribe in Device Monitor does it show any buttons as pressed (at the bottom of the window), just thinking it could be something on the board shorting the button though that would also unlock it.

You're welcome Modbusters

Until the 200 get the update to improve ss I find the best approach is to use preheat to get to temp and set the wattage to maintain the temp just below the limit. This show that for the first half of the vape, then I let it go above the limit to show the difference. When the update comes you will get a smooth line like the DNA 75 with ss.

Your wiring plan is fine scooby, short is good but no need for the power wires to be equal lengths I think the confusion comes from the balance wiring where you don't want them to vary much in resistance or it will affect the readings. I would change those battery terminals though a couple of brass pan head screws ground flat with a spring behind the negative one work well.

The RX200 is not a DNA, if it is like the Evic mini 3 clicks to go to settings down button for scroll, up for select & adjust.

Turn the temp up and or use a coil with more contact area, ss is the hardest wire to get used to temp limiting so trust your senses and experience as a vaper to home in on the settings that suit you. Just for completeness insufficient airflow and wicking both cause the temp limit to cut in.

Just adjust to taste, turn the temp down until you go past your sweet spot and go back a notch, if is not to your liking maybe go up, it is liquid and build specific there is no one setting suites all. I did a poll on another forum and most people vaped between 400 425 F, only a few over 450 F or below 400 F, but it does depend on the build & atty some can need a lot more or less. Preheat is all about how fast your vape heats up, punch is how close to your set temp before it stops and power is the initial power into a cool coils, personally I would have the punch highish. The ph power depends on how you use temp control, some ppl vape at 200 W and let the temp limiting control the actual power and if you are in this camp then you don't really need preheat and just leave it at 200 W. If you set the power to somewhere near where you like to vape, you can still let the temp limiting, maybe start at +50% of your wattage setting turn up if it takes too long to heat up or down if the opposite. It is a bit confusing at first so don't worry, just turn oh up if your build takes too ling to heat up or down if it heats up too fast.

They work in the same way, although the 200 is more punchy. The 75 has some code in the fw to get smoother results with stainless steel which has a very low TCR and this will be coming to the 200 in a future firmware update.

Titanium is great, just don't dry fire it so it glows.

I would expect all commercial electronics to use lead free solder these days, so I'm pretty sure it will have silver in it. You need a reasonably powerful iron >50 W with a tip that gives a good amount of contact area, preferably temperature controlled and ESD protected. Tin your tip, apply a little flux to the join first if you have any and use a higher temp than you would for soldering, the main thing it to be quick you can damage the components on any board having the heat on too long.

Larger wire is OK, the only negatives are it will be a PITA, take up more room in your mod and too big to solder direct to the board.

It's no problem with decent batteries and a mod with decent battery connections and the latest firmware has filtered out some of the warnings that would have come just from the preheat stage and now blinks the battery icon instead of flashing the weak battery info message.

Could be build related like touching coils shorting between loops or a poor connection, also make sure the atty is at room temp when you fit it.

Also there are only a handful of auto firing instances I have read about, IDK how many DNA 200 are out there, but there are 9,500 users on this forum so it seems to be a tiny proportion.

All Evolv products have had a 20 second cut off back to the Darwin, you are not going to melt anything with temp limiting, the board has it's own temp protection and the battery is protected by the fuse. I know that leaves Kanthal and Nichrome out, but even with them it is only a risk with a build that naturally takes a lot of power to heat running at power levels to get it to heat quickly that also make it overheat quickly, that is the users choice and they can choose temp mode to remove this risk.