VapingBad

I don't know, I hear they use wave springs so you may have to pull the 510 apart and google for a matching spring. You could try asking LostVape or asking VapeGeek.co.uk if they could order one.

It is normal for AA to show a resistance when there is none.

Line of best fit

Preheat never takes the temp higher than your set temp, in default is cuts out 100 F below your temp, this is the punch setting, but even at punch 11 it never goes over the temperature. Maybe you are thinking of the sort of profile a lot of other board have that just give an arbitrary boost. The resistance of your coil is not related to the TCR, I think you mean that lower res builds having smaller res change per degree makes it harder for the mod, the TCR and ratio of res change remain the same regardless of resistance. IME it doesn't make as much difference as you might expect within sensible limits.

Good point Bill, it should be stored when it goes to sleep.

When you lock ohms you need to do it when it is vaping right and maybe you locked it when you have a poor vape which would cause it to continue giving a poor vape. The getting an overly hot, could it be the wrong wire type selected, if the right wire type is selected it would mean the device has the base resistance too high this could be fitting the atty when it's worm or a poor connection. It is always worth cleaning atty connections and checking coil connections with these sort of problems as they are the most likely cause. If the wire type is correct a high base resistance would cause a hotter vape and if the base resistance is too low it would cause a weak vape.

You are doing the right thing, only lock ohms if there is a problem such as a connection problem that makes reading the resistance unreliable.

Even a copper or brass bar in the 510 will get you a reasonable mod res measurement 0.12 ohm is way way too high IMO /topic/65594-topic/?do=findComment&comment=886226 . Is that screw taking more of the ground current somehow, maybe there is anodising that is causing the ground path to take the long route.

The only negative I have read about charging at lower rates was one research paper that found in some batteries it shortened their life a little, the theory being that it was because they spent longer in a charging state. Most safety issues with Li batteries are related to heat build up.

That is odd, IIWY I would compare device monitor with the same build between your 200 & 133, they both have the same current limits, but if you are getting a much weaker vape on the 133 something is not right.

0.24 ohm it should not be affected by the 6 V output limit, maybe your mod resistance is set too high.

The main difference with 133 config is a 6 V output limit and if you are using high res this may limit your power a bit, what res are you using?

The update will make it a lot smoother regulation for ss, it will be coming, but I don't have a date.

OK I'm a day late, the forum opened a year and a day ago. Thanks Evolv for providing an uncensored forum where everybody is welcome and we can freely share our experiences, give and receive help from our peers and from you. The membership, which is nearly 10,000 now, are fantastic, not only for their generosity with their time and knowledge helping each other, but especially the way they conduct themselves, as an admin that makes that task almost redundant.

If you have an old carto laying around /topic/65594-topic/?do=findComment&comment=886231 , there are other methods discussed in that thread, but IMO the soldered carto is more than good enough.

Yes, absolutely fine.

Have you tried the latest firmware (link in my footer), I would give the board that buzzes a very close inspection looking for a damaged or missing component it could be that a small SMT got knocked off at some point.

It can be a help if you have an inconsistent res reading, but other than that it is better not to. When I have had issues like yours it has always been a connection fault and they are not always obvious. But it could be a broken coil wire with twisted, shorting between loops or hot spots, but these are less likely IMO.

It sounds like it got a jump in cold res reading, the first thing to try would be tighten coil and clean 510 connections.

No just install the 75 version over the top, it works for both, it is just a fresh install you would need to start with the 200 release and update with the 75.

You can, it is possible there could be a tiny affect on the balance accuracy though I doubt it would be anything to worry about.

Sounds like the fuse has blown, but not heard of the slightly reddish screen before, the best thing to do is return it under warranty, if your supplier will not help try Evolv.

Yes, but also change the battery to 2 cell in EScribe.

It will cycle between discharging the high cell(s) and charging the whole battery until they are all fully charged, the discharge is very slow and the charge is also at a low rate because it is in the final part of the constant voltage stage.

Those new griping 22 mm tweezers will do it