scottkoblitz

Just examined the USB cable and sure enough the end is kinked and feels like it's damaged. I did get this USB part for like $4.00 too so hopefully one or those 2 things is all it is. I already had to send 1 board in (not this one but the first MOD I built was either doa or I fried the fire button somehow). Anyways I appreciate all your help.

Got another question. While vaping in my car with it plugged in because it's 100 degrees outside it said warranty service? Anyone ever seen that? It wouldn't fire until I unplugged it.

What I'm concerned about is how long of 510 pins will it accept. Do you find that atomizers with long 510 pins won't sit flat?

Is the evolv as deep or deeper then the standard fdv models. I have a new ceramic fdv and it's really shallow. My tugboat v2 doesn't sit flush on it and that's a pet peeve of mine. If it's not at least as deep as the standard fdv v4 or whatever the last version before the new ceramic ones was then I'd probably not even bother upgrading it.

The fewer screws the better as a matter of fact.

Lol I don't want anything. I was just trying to figure out if I can easily convert from a fdv to an evolv 510. I don't care how many screws it has or if it has any. I was just seeing what it would take to go from one 510 to another.

Huh? I wasn't complaining about anything. Did you read the posts? I'm confused

Correct me if I'm wrong but sounds like the mounting hole is about the same or slightly larger for the evolve. The evolve has the option of fastening it with the 4 screws. I'm thinking if I used a fdv for now to get up and running I shouldn't have to worry about a sloppy fit if I upgraded to the evolv. I would just have to bore it out a little possibly and then drill and tap the 4 mounting holes?

Do you know off hand if the hole size and threads are the same as the fdv? Wondering if I can install the fdv and still have the option to upgrade without replacing the whole enclosure.

I'm working on my second DNA200 MOD and second boxmod period. The first one works but I'm new to temp control so I'm not sure how good it works. Only temp control coil I have is a .15 mini subtank coil which I believe is nickel. It always reads higher then that from .22 as high as like .35. Now I read that when things heat up the ohms change but I wonder if it's enhanced by the fdv v4 I used? I've read that the evolve is suppose to be a lot better for temp control devices. I already have a few different fdv 510's and would like to use them if I can. I want this build to be a quality MOD and if the evolve 510 is that much better then I'll hold off and order one I guess. If I use the fdv is there really any point in cutting threads to mount it in my alpinetech box? Doesn't seem like much material to tap there. I don't have a tap that size but again if it will make the box that much better I'll buy one. I just drilled the first one out so if fit pretty tight but I do notice it turns sometimes when removing an rda. I was thinking maybe a dab of epoxy would remedy that and probably wouldn't effect the connection. Last but not least I ordered xt30 connectors. I have always used deans connectors with lipo's in all of my rc land, water, and air vehicles but I thought I read someplace that xt30's are sufficient and are a lot smaller. Is that what most people use?

Mamu has 2 options. One that uses all 3 on board buttons and one that has a remote button hole above the board. I think it's a 12mm hole but if I needed to I could always drill it out larger. I'm actually still waiting on my replacement board from evolv. The fire button was dead before I fired it up the first time.

Can someone recommend a quality switch to use in an alpinetech 1590b box with a mamu face plate probably? I'd like a decent sized ss clicky button that will last. I'd use the onboard button with an extender but I'm worried that it will wear out the onboard button rendering the board useless? I figure if I use a remote switch if it wears out I can just replace the switch. I hear the mitec 16mm switches are nice but I heard a lot of people saying they don't last? I see fdv makes a switch now but I can't find any reviews on it. Just want a nice switch that will last a long time.

I hope they send one with the new board because I don't have a spare.

When you did your rma's did you remove everything from the board? Including the balance tap? It's a paita to remove 4 lead components so I left that on mine. I hope they normally send boards with those included. Also, how long did it take to get you board back?