black lace

Theym all like that looking through it, i thought you were pointing at a crack, once you peal off the protectiv film and look at the screen surface the pixel display area aprox 7mm x 21mm has a slight matt purpul sheen to it and is off center. Good to help centre it up to a slot when fitting. They are tough little beggers and it looks fine..

Issue with crystal?? Have you peeled off the protective film and found a crack in the screen?

Nice looking build mate, you have no issues with the screen ribbon with that extra bit of clearance from the switch up there, still a biytch to assemble though "" i bet ""

Lol,, i know its an old (op) but any profile that has been worked out right is only ever going to be as good as the build, quality of metal, symetery of coil, connections/polarity, wicking, juice flow and gravitational pull in relation to rotation where your standing on the planet, cuz your moving faster at the equator than at the pole.

Ive got a few mods in use with twin 26650's in, i lend them out when im doing repairs, and they still come back flat 8400 mah.. the green ones on the left of pic. Lol

I think the 18650 batteries are inferior and the space would always be better used up with lipos, some argue that the 18650's are quick to change out and use them for that reason,,, in my mind its allways going to be swings and rounderbouts, the larger capacity you go on a lipo the bigger it will get so the bigger the mod, have you looked at the grafine equivelent batteries, you could upgrade yours with one of thoes..

Keep it simple, cheap and chearfull, but the right tools. All the best..

No build your own coils and use a dripper or an aromatizer. at the moment your screwing market stall quality onto the best device there is..

I like the aromatizer and also use a dripper, i cant get to gripps with the stainless, to low an ohms and hot battery for me, i use the Nife30, the mind boggles how they can get a claptoned coil into a metal screw in and machine pack it with cotton and expect it to preform. Might be ok with 50/50 vg/pg, but not much higher on the vg, try soaking one for an hour or so beffor you fire it or take any mod measurments or settings. The dna is very acurate, and screw in coils are poor, so perhaps issues happen..

Ethrem ive just google searched the coils your on about, sorry to say they look like a pile of junk compared to what you should be making by hand, what vg ratio are you trying to pull through thoes ear plugs ?? i would recomend dripping some juice down the spout to verify you have a wet wick, your mod or board also needs to be room stable to the temp of the atty or your readings will be out from the very onset.

I just tack epoxi glue the screen to the inside of a metal enclosure and then fit the wired up board to the screen and support the board with 1.6mm through bolts, i can allways put a bit moor glue around the screen once satisfied its central, i'm sure its not critical but i've got a bit moor air flow around the board, rarther than packing the back of the screen. Oh yeh if you do it this way.. as a hint, the pixle area of the screen display has a purple tinge to it, so if you look carefuly you can center it up to the slot easy.. For the refrence type mods where you have to offer the whole assembly in, you can get the cradles and fittings from Stealth vape..

I put a simular question up last year in the custom screen threads"" what font does evolv use?"" And never got a definate answere, i think the last screens i created with the little screen generator program was with 'impact' font and are nice and crisp clean cut lettering.

In this thread.. page 9 ,, post 123. If youve allready fitted the jsth connector, perhaps tack it across on the back.

Cut a piece of shrink wrap electrical tube oversize by about 15mm then heat it to shrink fit and squeeze the end shut because it becomes sticky and stays molded shut, when its cooled down just gently work it off the driptip, will fit any size driptip, or sealent gun ,juice bottle, lost pen top ect ect.

Ive shorted and burned up a componant myselfe and the insident has been just as isolated to the single componant as yours.. on mine a small fragment of loose wire clipping had fallen across the connector tabs of the componant,, shorting it and burned it up, the fuse wont protect you from that, nore will the material of the box.

I didnt even know they had dedicated forums so breakdowns could be measured,, lamo.. sos, sarcasum being the lowest form ect, no offence,

You should be able to get it up on escribe without a fuse, so sounds very dead.

Sos to hear that mate, this is the site where problems turn up,,, but really very few compleate failiures,, If its new you will have to take it back.

My experiance you will get 1300mah lipo and a dna200 board in a 1590g (no worries) havnt seen the data sheet for the 250. In a 1590b ive squeezed twin 2650's and a dna40 across the top and screen tucked down the side, a 1590b is a large box, but very suitable for a dripper and volume of battery storage. you need to sift through the (lets see your 200's section),, and i recomend .. modmaker.co.uk and stealthvape.co.uk for idears on boxes, anitomical drawings and dimentions are all up there. I would ditch the mitec buttons because using pushrods to the board buttons will use less space, , ive noticed your location in the US ,, a lot of folk on hear in the US use protovape,

Ive noticed with mine,,,the basics are important! some materials moor than others, if the board temperature hasnt stabalised, performance will be hopeless,, best starting point is a cold board (mod) to cold coil. Swapping attys with different builds over on a warm board, they will fire but the readings and tuning will be off. (Haywire with some metals)

ive had to replace a fuse and its a realy fast job, and on an insitue board very fiddly, and definatly doesnt look like its been fitted by a robot, the pads are tiny, the mod has been put through its passes for the past six months with no problems, i blamed a bad charger, one of thoes double 1Amp things, i fiered it while charging and it poped, i binned that charger. Next time i have to do one i think i will put a blob across both tabs and fit an automotive mini blade fuse to the battery pos wire..

If you reload the video he does show his power source/charger towards the end, a bit too pricey for me now because i have plenty of mods for backup, so wouldnt get used, i do have a small lipo ballance charger, i think its called an Imax B3 and are not very expencive either. The pic above of my homemade, i use it to charge a straight through wooden box mod with paralal 18650's it works fine, and built specificaly with that in mind... quoting vaping bad and the youtube bloke, you only need the one 1Amp charger board for what your doing. I think the RC people burn their way through batteries a lot quicker than us..

Cant get the other shot on the same post. This Phones doing my head in..

Two one amp charger boards from a little battery box powered from two phone chargers, all manner of extension connectors can be made to attatch, to the power out lead.. or you can just power the one board if you get frightened.. Cheap and works..

Those atties.. is that your waiting to be cleaned pile..??