black lace

I remember having a simular problem, but am on mobile at the moment so cant check what im saying, but if memory serves right i draged and droped the file into the materials dropdown list or sellected it from there, rather than sellect it from the general screen load profile, think there was also anouther way of getting it in but cant remenber without a computer.. so save it as a file first rather than just load. i know your on about from program to device, but that is how it worked for me..

You know back to the original poast, alarm bells start ringing for me as soon as vent holes in the top are mentioned, you have to make sure juice doesnt get in there,,, .. because you have allready got through three i think your doing the right thing asking for a different model dna, try and see if they have one without vent holes, where juice can get in.. also im sure you know but for the good of other users/readers, you know as soon as the skins on the batteries start to break away from the battery and start exposing the metal casings, specialy at the top, they need either replacing or repairing..

What atomiser and coil set up are you using??

I use the stealth vape nife30 and swear by it,, it has its own tcr in steam engin, my coils are untidy spaced and gaps between coil hoops probly greater than the thickness of the wire, some coil hoops might touch a little, but i never have any problems, the trick i find is make sure the coil is firm fitted, cant move or buckle under heat, not touching the sides of chimneys and lifted off flat bed build decks (so lead leggs arnt dragging making contact) and also on a new coil start with low watts and heat and slowly build up to your desiered temp, i never pre burn these coils.

I thought the little button type batteries had a five year shelf life anyway..

Because its new, Think it will have to go back to the merchant you got it from..

No , i know you said that first off, a dead flat battery wont be helping, Can you put it in wattage mode and press the down button and power it right down to one watt, hold it there and see if it reads on screen a serial genuine part number.

Oh ok, perhaps a pic to the same detail to the one above showing what you said then.

I havnt seen that message on anything beffor. Thats why i said reset it, just incase someone has applied it as a custom screen and theyr messing around, because it doesnt look like authentic font either ,, send it back its new..

Obviously disconnect the battery and give it a good blow out, the tinyest strand could booger it up.

Am mobile at the moment but can only think of the top of my head is a button snagging, or a petty short (small particl inside).

Its the dogs wotsits, in fact you can actualy do a screen with ect ect lol..

Have you had that from second hand, if so i would connect it to escribe and reset to factory settings and start again.

No its fine.. no inbuilt battery on the board..

Yes nothing wrong Doing a quick check on an ohms law calculator, to put 60 watt through .25 ohms coils you need 3.87 volts.. im not trying to be criptic but clearly if you havnt the energy voltage left in the power pack (batteries) you arnt going to achieve the wattage heat your demanding at the coil. the mod i was refering to (and not dna) is a basic v/w in series 18650 and the only mod i have left with easily removable batteries, and the set up .65 ohm 30/35 watt heat requiers somthing like 4.7 volt power. It powers the dripper atty until it stops and the battery indicator does say zero percent,,, i know exactly what your getting at but ive never post mortemed the batteries at that point to see what power is left in them, ive just changed them for fresh charged. ""The board in the mod would have a pre set minimum requirement for battery energy voltage, then read zero percent, we dont allow batteries to run dead flat"" I dont think you have a fault, just reading too much information. i dont think its possible to squeeze out moor milage eg ..say 3000 mah 18650 battery .50 coil 15 watt. From one mod to anouther. But on the whole as fare as the big picture is concerned you will get moor efficiant longer milage whith temp regulated, thats why we'v all changed over.. i cant help notice you are asking the same question in two other threads..

Page one on the pinned topic common problems suggests return to manufacturer /topic/65791-topic/ so i guess you need to put in a rma ticket request..

What i do with a twin or series connected 18650 mod is have spare charged batteries on standby and that is twin coiling .65 ohm at 35 watt maximum and i get several ten minuit blasts out of it throughout the day and then its depleated by the evening..

Sos mate i wont lie to you, i was hoping someone els with moor knoladge on twin 18650s would step in, but from a non technical stance, how long are you hoping to knock 65watt out of two 18650 batteties, if you havnt got the energy there the board will display and do the best it can to safely put out what your demanding, im only on mobile at the moment so its difficult to back track and copy and paste links but you can set up a hoop coil and do a continuouse burn off run through the battery analiser in escribe and find your actual battery curve for the mod, ((do a search)) but its somthing ive never had to do and ive shelvs of dna mods,,, the way i vape twin coiling at 65 watt, i would be happy if it lasted me three or four hours, and also using a second mod for mouth to lung hits inbetween.

No i only use lipol, You could do a search unless someone els inputs, i did a quick mobile search /topic/67896-topic/?do=findComment&comment=911196 .... may be of interest, i dont know i only put nicads by dna40's, You can watch how your power is performing in relation to your coil in device monitor, Right..

Am not an expert on your battery setup, but your wattage does constantly change for a steady power flow, it may look all over the place on the mod screen in real time, but in device monitor you should see a steady controled power ramp up, even if your not using a temp setting,,, allso what wire are your coils made from??

A super reliable device our mate.. merry christmas.. Six years smoke free.. £12,000 loose change, not to hard to find better things to use it on.

I dont leave the house without disconnecting, and have smoke detectors, but other than that, putting things into perspective, how manny other things are constantly recieving power, cordless land line, fridge freezer, boiler, computer ect ect all combustable ..

I only have the aromatizers where i actually poke the coil lead legs through the holes and tighten the grub screws in,,, everything els i have i avoid the coil lead holes and wrap my lead legs under the screw heads (most upgraded to alen bolts) and tighten down like that for a moor definate connection,, and they dont usualy back off after heating, ,,is one way,,,, in the thread i mentioned earlier the chap was saying dry burn the coil first,,, so what i will do next time i try a stainless build is dry burn the coil in watts mode beffor wicking, might get better results.

The problem i had was i would do a build gef it running no worries, then go back to it a few hours later and it would be all over the place, like it was shorting, fireing out of control no control.. so havnt used it for some time because am happy and probly set in my ways with the Nife30..

OMG you'v ripped its little heart out and its nearly christmas as well, lol, its called an inductor, if you do a search word there is info, sending it in will get it best sorted though..