Spector NS5 RD

open a help ticket with Evolv. any missing components warrants a help ticket.short answer yes, it could interfere with charging and temp readings. you're not charging correctly because your board can't account for the right temp (safety feature). https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add

correct, USB VDetect -10k res - +5v USB.

honestly, everything looks in order. 3.41 for cutoff is a sliver high but nothing major. i set it to 3v for all my lipo dna mods. not any lower, as lipo's lose there muscle after the 3 volt mark and become very unbalanced the lower you take the cells. 3.41v will extend the life of your lipo but you do sacrifice some capacity, a trade off. what might be conflicting with the battery meter is you have 9.8 as the WH capacity but battery analyzer came up with 9.473. try putting that value back into the capacity field. also,with over 50k puffs the lipo could be on it's way out. maybe starting to get weak and unable to provide the current the board needs. you would be able to see this while firing the device and watching device monitor, looking for a drastic voltage sag under load. you'll get the weak battery warning when you're reaching your cell soft cutoff value. as for the res reading off, try cleaning the 510 threads, pin etc. other than that you can re-test you mod's internal resistance with one of those copper threaded plugs. that's what i use. http://smokefreemods.webs.com/apps/webstore/products/show/6619269

LOL, it's only been 2 days since you posted about the lipo, fiber! give it a little longer for response from here and for a response to your email from Starss. you can still use the lipo in the meantime. you won't hurt anything. in EScribe, set the battery fields to "lithium polymer", "3 cell", throw in "12" for the watt hours and "3" for the cell soft cutoff voltage. upload those settings to your devices and BINGO BANGO you're vaping on a lipo.

problem is with components so small on the PCB, it becomes VERY difficult for a person to "repair". that's why Evolv doesn't bother to repair most of the sent back boards. they just replace and send a new one in the mail. what does the BMIC look like after you cleaned it?

post a screenshot of your battery settings in EScribe. you might have an incorrect number or something input. weak battery is also tied into your lipo. post a screenshot of Device Monitor with pack and cells 1-3 ticked wrong read resistances can be a case of "mod internal resistance" set incorrectly. what is the value input in EScribe?

THE DNA 40-60-75-200-250 all use the same Atmel microcontroller. one board isn't "faster" than another. what do you mean by "my DNA 75 is faster."?

i soldered very thin enamel coated copper wire directly to the usb data+ and data- pinouts. the 2 amp charging, QI wireless charging, reverse battery buzzer, etc. all work.

rDNA 40 with a DNA 60 stuffed inside. (this is not a simple direct transplant. there is moderate modding, repositioning of "stuff" and tedious soldering needed, especially if you want EScribe to work with Vaporshark's daughter board.)

you could put a DNA 250 into your relo. i plan on doing that myself.

some people are OCD about their settings. i for one get it close and call it "good to go". EScribe gave you a calculated number. in real life/real world use, you'll see anywhere from 11-12.21 wh's. that's why BA is there, to get your specific battery's CSV curve and watt hour capacity.

you can search around for someone else's CSV for an 1100 mah lipo or you can run BA yourself. i can post my VT200's CSV for you to use in the mean time, if you'd like. it's kind of close to 1100 mah (11.28 wh's). edit - never mind, i don't have the CSV anymore.

a lot of mods do this, especially TC mods. i'm almost sure the reason is it's continuously searching for a resistance or checking to see if there is anything connected i.e. an atty. tiny bit-o-voltage so when you screw down an atty the resistance is read or the board knows it has a topper connected to it. that's my best educated guess.

under the "mod" tab of EScribe, you would need to change from 2-cell to 3-cell operation - input the watt hours of the lipo (around 12 wh's) - set the "cell soft cutoff" to 3v. also make sure "kanthal max power limit" is set to 200. the "mod" tab is only in the advanced and manufacturers UI under "OPTIONS" at the top of EScribe.

welcome to forum SillyBilly. let's see if we can't get your mods vaping right...... when the display goes from your set temp to "off". that means you've been kicked out of TC and dumped into regular wattage mode. most likely do to - a loose connection somewhere between the 510 and your build, not high enough of a set wattage, wrong material CSV, incorrect base resistance reading (usually too high of a reading if it kicks you out of TC). i would make sure you're using the correct material CSV, check your mods "internal resistance" setting (what is your "mod resistance" set to for both mods?) and look at your preheat settings. what would also help is if you are able to post a screenshot of device monitor while firing the mod or mods with the build that won't work for you. device monitor is a handy tool for diagnosing troublesome builds.

you may have to adjust the "punch", "preheat power", "time limit" and slightly adjust your "cold resistance" in EScribe. lock in a slightly lower resistance than what the device reads. for example,say your devices reads the coil at 0.145 ohms - lock in a resistance of 0.140 ohms or until the preheat begins to work.

hi madzz. it would be possible to switch out boards but before doing that, why not contact Evolv and ask if you can send in your dead triade dna board? they might be able to send you a replacement board. if you're willing to desolder the board from your triade, might as well have 2 working mods than just one and the other in pieces. you can open a help ticket below https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add

it's stated in the download link - 14.051 wh's

i have used the crown .15 nickel coils and found, at least in my case, they need a very high temp for a satisfying vape, around 50-60 watts, 550F and up. as for the nickel kanger coils, i find they vape great at 30-45 watts, around the 500F mark. even the stock SS316L crown coils need a very temp setting for a good vape. never used a supertank mini. what is your "mod resistance" set to in EScribe? you're using the correct material profiles for the coils? what are the coils reading vs. what they're rated at (ohms). you can post a screenshot of "device monitor" while taking a few vapes on any of the coils you're having a problem with and that might tell us something.

what are your settings while using TC, fenderstrat? wattage? temp setting? preheat? resistance printed on coil Vs. actual read resistance?

For people who need the battery curve (CSV) for TWO Sony VTC5A batteries (brand new), below is my result from running Battery Analyzer. This test was ran using a Vaporshark Vaporflask DNA133 set to the maximum of 108 watts (because of the 6v limit) with .33 ohm load. Sony VTC5A Battery Curve (2S) THEIR CAPACITY (WATT HOURS) IS - 14.051 I USED A "CELL SOFT CUTOFF" OF - 2.6V 2S Sony VTC5A Battery Curve (14.051).csv

i'd recommend charging the device while you're awake. general rule of thumb, to be absolutely safe - never leave any battery charging unattended. absolutely nothing is 100% safe. use your own judgment.

welcome to the forum, philipsig. you would need to replace the DNA 200 board with a DNA 250. there is no firmware upgrade to make the 200 do 250 watts.

can you post a screenshot of device monitor with the "battery" options checked? if vapor lips fails you, you could open a help ticket with Evolv and see what their response is. just know, they might require you to de-solder the board from the mod and send only the board to them.

the mod has since stopped auto firing, vapedudde? you're saying cell 1-2 are showing as empty, in device monitor? however, those two cells are actually charged? can you post a screenshot of device monitor with batteries in the triade? firstly, i would contact the vendor you purchased the mod from and ask about a return. second option is to contact lost vape's warranty center. http://www.lostvaperepaircenter.com/