Spector NS5 RD

welcome to forum Uwe. unfortunately there is no option at this time for you want. the volt and amp reading is dynamically updated as the fire button is pressed. when released, the fields immediately zero out. sorry!

sorry to hear it mstave. what happens if you roll back to the firmware that was working for you? you might get lucky, but...........best thing to do is open a help ticket with evolv. link is in the bottom of my footer.

I would open a help ticket with evolv. Sounds to me like either a poor connection or the board. Link is in my footer.

welcome to the forum Rhia74. have EScribe? put the cells in the mod and open up "DEvice Monitor" and tick all the battery options. post a screenshot. we're interested in what cells 1 and 2 are reading. therion isn't turning on because one of the cells is making poor connection. or incorrect EScribe battery settings.

that would be my guess as well.

all my dna devices display the same behavior. counter goes up even if set temp is not reached. never really paid much attention to it.

you're saying you're still able to vape for a lot longer, even after the battery bar is empty? increase the watt hour value. up it to 15 or 16 somewhere around there.

did you use the CSV along with the watt hour setting?

i use the crown coils in TC. since the update for SS TC has hit the DNA 200/250, the crown SS coils perform pretty good. the stock SS 316 setting that is already on the DNA will work fine. as for preheat, i have my preheat set to 100w, punch 11, for 1 sec. IMO, these crown coils need at least 60-70 watts and 500+F to get a good vape going.

samsung 25r5's (the green samsung 25R) will be better performers than those imrens you're using. i'll leave this here for you to read through for selecting the right cells (the DNA 200 will draw a maximum of 23 amps from the cells and the DNA 250 will a maximum of 28 amps) https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blog-entry/list-of-battery-tests.7436/

welcome to the forum, mudbubble. what brand are these 2900mah 30 amp cells? reason i ask is because there are NO real 2900mah 30 amp cells available on the market. you most likely have some re-wrapped cells with inflated ratings. what message are you getting? there is no "low volt" message. weak battery? check battery? probably the weak battery message. it's because of the not so great re-wrap cells you are using and an incorrect (too high of a number) cell capacity value input EScribe's battery settings. as for it taking along time to charge, sounds like you have the DNA 200 version and not the DNA 250 (which has 2 amp charging. DNA 200 only has 1 amp). i would get a good set of non re-wrapped cells then go into EScribe and adjust your battery settings. here's a list of recommended cells by Battery Mooch... (any cell from 20-25 amp would be good for the DNA 200. i really like the Sony VTC5A cells. they're great all around cells.)

your testing those 3 pins without the USB plugged in, correct? any missing components from either side of the board? can you post a couple, good quality, shots of the board front and back? as a last ditch effort, try re-flashing the firmware on the board. it is possible you damaged the board, somehow, removing it from it's original enclosure (too much heat / slipped with the soldering iron and knocked off an SMD / stray solder blob is shorting a component). more than likely you'll be opening a help ticket with Evolv for a new board. link for help ticket.... https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/?a=add

see if you have voltage after the reverse battery protection mosfet. (the pic below should look familiar to a certain someone!) (on the back of the boARD) check these 3 pins for batt voltage. only those 3 i have circled in red, the 4 pin (pin closest to the USB area is the gate, don't probe that) or (on the front of the board) if you can get through the conformal coating and solder mask, stick your DMM probe in anyone of these vias circled in red. there should be batt voltage there as well.

if you want to be 100% safe, i would ditch that cell. dents on the bottom of cell are actually more dangerous than dents along the sides, because of the way the cell is manufactured. the layers.

hi blaed. here is the CSV for 2 Samsung 30Q cells. Samsung_30Q_17.811Wh.csv (389 Bytes, 32 views) the watt hours for these 2 cells are 17.811 (input that number for the "capacity" in EScribe)

think about it this way.....in wattage mode, you turned the wattage up till you got a satisfying vape, right? same goes for TC. slowly up the temp/wattage until you find your sweet spot. "temperature protected" is a message letting you know you have reached your set temp. it's not an error or anything to be worried about. you'll know if your set temp is too high when the tank starts to run dry, either you'll get very weak hits or nasty burnt cotton, indicating too high of a set temp. it's a bit of a learning curve when it comes to TC but it's great when you got it down pat, it's all i use. i rarely use wattage mode.

what you're experiencing is called "refinement". this is normal operation. you have 2 choices - 1) you can turn up your set temp (560F+) to get it where it was vaping before refinement took place. don't be afraid to turn up your set temp, it's all about what gives you a good vape. i found i like most of my SS builds around 570F - 580F 2) or you can lock your resistance as soon as you put your tank on the mod. this will stop refinement from refining your resistance, keeping it vaping they way you like it at 460F. some say "don't lock your resistance" but it comes down to what you care about, consistency or accuracy. the reason the ohms rise while in regular wattage mode is because SS rises in resistance as it's heated. this is how TC is done with today's mods. this is normal to see in wattage mode. the resistance should not rise while pressing the fire button in TC mode.

Iso alc on q tip.

actually, i was wrong on the PCB cleaner...... Nick Evolv Registeredct 03, 2015 Posts: 146Posted Oct 15, 2015 Just wanted to chime in here and say that the only thing we approve for use on anything that comes in contact with the board is a Silicone/RTV that is non-corrosive or electronics grade, such as the following: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005T8R6LY/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687742&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0063U2RT8&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=19S9F5TH4AEGKX71VQB8 Anything else is a big nono, especially solvent based glues or epoxies, the two part epoxies commonly used, etc. apparently Evolv doesn't want you spraying anything on the boARD that is solvent based. up to you if you want to use iso alc or not. all i can say is, i used it with no ill after effects.

evolv recommends an electronics grade safe solvent, only, to be used with their boards. Any brand will do. It is something that you can do at home. In a pinch, I have used iso alcohol. I'm not recommending it. Use at your own risk. Do you or someone you know own a digital multi meter? Like I said, i would double check each cell's voltage with one, Especially if the mod was working fine before ejuice got on the board.

double check ALL cell voltages with a DMM before condemning the lipo. sounds more like there is ejuice left around the balance part of the DNA PCB. clean good with electronics safe cleaner then re-attach lipo. you can find a suitable replacement lipo from Hobby King or EBay....if it is indeed the lipo.

there is an option in EScribe to limit the current draw from the battery. "peak current" and "sustained current" fields are adjustable.

18650 will work just fine.

can't really comment on the high cell readings. just one question about it tho, if you charge the cells INSIDE the mod what are read values for each of the 3 cells, 4.20v? if so, i'd be happy with that. as for ambient temp sensors on the board not being calibrated, that's Lost Vapes job to run case analyzer. case analyzer will account for added heat during the charge/normal operation of the board. those results are factored into the room temp reading. the room temp will NEVER be dead on. kind of close but never exact. don't forget, the sensor is located on the PCB, which is inside of a metal/plastic/wood case. it's essentially cut off/isolated from measuring the actual room temp. it has to make a prediction based off of case analyzers results. it's close enough for a vape board. i will say this, i would of rather seen the field labeled as "ambient board temp" rather than "room temp" for just this reason. if your mod working fine, i wouldn't sweat the small stuff.

there is an interactive EScribe training course...(a general walk through of the program) https://downloads.evolvapor.com/escribe/guide/story.html