dwcraig1

With 2 cells the DNA200 board has an output of 133 watts.

Here's my thinking of how to do it. This is the negative contact of an IPV2. The negative wire is soldered to the brass plate at the battery end of the spring essentially removing the spring as part of the electrical path. I think a bit stronger spring should be used than the one pictured though.

Yes The Turnigy is the one I recommend, do you solder OK? Just in case your not already aware of it, the original battery is labeled 1800 mah but it is more like around 1250 mah on a good day.

What brand mod is this, some how I was thinking it was a Vapecige Vtbox200 and was posting where to get the battery but I must be in the wrong thread.....LOL (oh from member's profile) Here is the one that I put in Vapecige Vtbox200, I had to shorten the power wires considerably and remove the XT60 and add a T plug: https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=59112 This one should work also: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lion-Power-11-1V-1500Mah-40C-MAX-60C-3S-Lipo-Battery-For-RC-Car-Helicopter-US-/111470192309 Juice on/in/under the balance plug was the cause for mine (#3 cell) to get unbalanced, it slowly drained when just sitting. I caught it right away so it never hurt the battery.

Here's what mine's going to look like if they ever (FT) decide to ship it.

I was going to re-wire mine but I came to the conclusion that most of the battery sag was more a result of the 18650 batteries so I skipped the Idea. Others report that there was difficulty getting the sled to fit back in place with larger wire. On the blocks, what are the readings from them using a ohm meter. I believe you could just bridge the spots where they connect by soldering a piece of wire in their place. You might want to wait for someone to verify what I just said about the little blocks before doing it.

Ehpro e-Tank F1 on VTbox200, while it works pretty good I wish I had skipped this one. It's just too big.

Here's my latest atty, Merlin by Augvape and Roxy

My last 200 came from a reputable place and the mod resistance was set to 0.02 ohms, they must have copied DJLsb's figures or something. I checked it myself and got 0.004. Just saying.

While it would be better to check it properly as that can be useful info when looking for a problem you can expect it to be around 0.004 to 0.005 ohms when things are as they should be.

This is the first time that I recall hearing this problem when using a Windows computer. You might try uninstalling Escribe and reinstalling it, it is quick to do and can't hurt anything. Just thinking maybe the app got corrupted, probably a long shot though. The folks at Evolv will probably not be responding till tomorrow so just be patient.

Does it say anything on the screen of the mod? Have you tried it with a different data cable and/or computer?

The firmware that comes with this EScribe for the 75 contains the firmware for the 200 as well. The firmware dated 04-25 should be avoided. Get it here: http://evolvapor.com/dna75.php

Great, how about TC? Pictures are good.

Perhaps I should have said that I got it that the green line was the set point and not the firing wattage. Juice or something conductive on the board is what I'm thinking as well....but just guessing.

Got that.....finally, now that you pointed it out. thanks

Poster claims no atty in first screen but it fires set wattage when fire button is pressed. Last screen claims no fire button is pushed just atty installed and it fires by itself @ 200 watts. How can this be even possible?

Here: the one labeled "recommended" http://evolvapor.forumchitchat.com/post/early-firmware-7508618?pid=1291935653

Here's a more up to date 18650 chart.

Just my opinion/thoughts. So you take a 900 mah 3s lipo and re-wire it parallel, now it's a 2700 mah lipo. Sounds good, right? Well it's still just 10 watt hours. Given those numbers I see no advantage to building a DNA75 using a lipo, I would just spend a few bucks more and use the 200 board. I do see a market for the 75 with interchangeable 18650/26650 though as most folks vape at way less than 75 watts. Again just my way of looking at it.

I have yet to even own a 26650, currently have no plans to either. I would guess that the CDR can be set with EScribe on the 75 like it can be on the 200. Do I have this right?

They need to be checked with an ohm meter, it that how you checked them? I guess a volt meter could be used as well, should read pack voltage between #3 and ground with batteries installed but the ohm meter would be best.

This may be a long shot but check both of these little "chips" that are being used to bridge the ground pin to battery negative and #3 pin to battery positive. If they are open bridge them with solder and/or wire. There's one on each side.

Is the battery draining while just sitting (off charger) ?