dwcraig1

@ BillW50, what are you using for wire? It sure has a big change from cold to hot in resistance.

I thought I'd throw something up for comparison, my DX200 not hitting temp And hitting temp,

I just want to throw this in here for those looking for the original Hcigar 1300 mah lipo, Fasttech listed them this morning for $12 something. This isn't available to US customer because of shipping regulations, I'm not sure just where it can be shipped to either.

Please add what you have been using for a charger, is it the same charger that was used on both boards?

Because of cell #2 being so low I just can't recommend a usb recovery charge, you might try it at your own risk. To do a usb recovery charge you must first sign in to Evolv under the "internet" tab in EScribe, then you know the rest. It's a long process (slow), keep an eye on it, check if it getting hot, swollen ,ect. Surely the battery has damage even if you get it to work. I would be trying to return it to the seller but I know that's not always possible.

It is going to require a new battery I would say.

It that for the pack? What is cell 1,2 and 3?

What the voltages for the cells shown in "Device Monitor" ?

Also would you add the type of charger used with it?

It's 20 seconds

Good to hear that you got it sorted

I was quite doubtful, I tried this with a few atties till on the 3rd it worked. Note cold ohm vs live ohms. Firing at 50 watts, 75 watts preheat. It works.

Copy and paste into Note Pad, under "file" tab choose "save as" then add .CSV to file name, then choose "all files" from bottom drop down (save as type) and save.

I'll use this pic here as a reference, my coils are closer to the posts as well as closer to the deck. I'm using Nife70 in one, twisted ss 430 in another and single 430 in yet another, all are dual 2 mm coiled. Great flavor from all, I have no Mutation to compare with but I sure know flavor. https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/threads/new-youde-rta-the-bellus.700001/page-64#post-17743195

14.43 wh is correct, be sure to set your cutoff for the lipo at 3.09 volts or higher. I suggest you save the CSV for the two cells. Here is a text file for "a" 1300 mah lipo, it will need to be saved as CSV It is only going to affect battery gauge and battery % if it isn't dead on, I expect it to be just fine though. 1300_mah_lipo.txt

This is how I got my lipo balanced again after trying a couple hobby chargers that failed to do the job. Might be hard to see but the two wire from the Nitecore charger at attached to the appropriate cell on the balance connector. On the Nitecore end is a juice bottle with the wires affixed with tape. This worked quite well. While is appears that it's plugged in to to main power wires.... it is not...the T plug is just in the way of your view.

I certainly can't imagine any problem with an RMA but you have to ask them. http://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add

I have not seen this "weak battery" message on mine as yet and I tried to make it happen. It got down to 3.4 volts twice but it was time to go to work so I changed the battery. The first time was with an HD2, second time HE4 @ 40/50 watts. It appears to not be the board as some are saying. I would imagine that if I were to be vaping @ 75 watts things would be working out different but I'm using it just as I use my 200 (one of them anyway)

I was waiting to hear about it, very good

Being that it has a Deans (T) plug that pretty much would go right into a VapeCige VTbox200, maybe post a link as to where you got it from.if you would please. It would still be a bit tight with that long of power leads.

Great news

I believe you mean 0.05?

On an atty when in doubt I secure a piece of solid copper wire in place of the coil (post to post) and read it with atomizer analyzer. Of coarse with a disposable head this is not possible. I expect to see no more than 0.02? hopfully

Atomizer Analyzer could help sort this to some extent. Screw on atty, connect to EScribe/Atomizer Analyzer and start to loosen the atty. Just llosen a tiny bit and wait till it reads and go a bit more. If you loose the connection almost immediately then you'll have your answer.

If your only having a problem with this atty it probably has a bad connection due to the sliding positive pin and how strong the spring in the mods 510 is/isn't. I've had similar problems with my Kanger Subtank, on it I built up the end of the sliding positive pin with silver solder and put it back in upside down. You might try just pushing the atty's positive pin inward prior to screwing it on the mod, that just might be enough.