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Hana V200


monster92

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[QUOTE=FloridaBill]

I also am having an issue with my Hana V200.

Yesterday I went into EScribe and changed the battery capacity from the 8Wh setting that it had arrived with to 10.545. This morning it seemed to have lost some power overnight, so I connected it to the EScribe Device Monitor and discovered that cell 3 is discharging by itself. I did both a soft and hard reboot from EScribe but neither fixed the problem. Currently I am showing cell 1 at 4.20V, Cell 2 at 4.16V, and Cell 3 at 2.75V.[/QUOTE]

If you charge it and it comes up, but then drops, I would suspect a bad pack.


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[CODE]
If you charge it and it comes up, but then drops, I would suspect a bad pack.
[/CODE]

Cell 3 won't charge.  Currently reading 4.19V, 4.19V, and 1.30V (cell 1,2,3).  That's with it setting on the charger since my post 2 hours ago, charging display off, no tank attached.

I am beginning to suspect a board issue.  Cell 3 has now "stabilized" at 1.3V.  During the time it was gradually dropping (even though it should have been charging), I noticed the USB current was very low, somewhere around 0.020 A and dropping as the charge on cell 3 dropped.  Now that cell 3 is steady at 1.30V, the USB power and current are both showing zero (USB voltage is showing 4.766V).

UPDATE:  The drain is now affecting the other 2 cells.  Current readings are 4.17. 4.12 and 1.29 (cells 1,2,3) (7/29 firmware)

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Sounds like a resistor for the balance port was knocked off. I had a similar issue with my first mod. I have a lipo checker and charger that both showed the battery pack was good but cell 1 on Escribe was at 1.9v. A closer inspection of the board showed one resistor was knocked off slightly (not completely off) and that was enough to show 1 bad cell. I had a 2nd board so I swapped it out and it worked perfectly. 

I would try to work with Evolv. I'm still trying to get a replacement screen from Hana and they seem to respond only once a day and it's usually "have you checked to see if your MOD is not in Stealth mode?" or "would you like to send it in for our technicians to look at it?" when I told them I already fixed it and just need a replacement screen. I'm not a fan of Hana so far. 

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Yessss. Fixed my screen with one from another board that just arrived. Also added bullet connectors I took out of an xt30. Was a tight fit but in the end it wasn't much different space wise as the jst. Hopefully now there's no issues. Also lined the side of the lipo against the board and 510 with some thick rubber electrical tape.

image.jpg

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As far as the resistance readings on the v200. I tried to solder the 510 better. Idk if the solder made connection to the wire farther in the 510. But when I looked inside for the first time the wire looks like it wasn't bonded to the solder. And the connection to the board same thing. On the 510 it almost just looked like the wire was just sticking out of the solder. But not fused with it. I tried beefing it up more and reheated the solder connection to the board but they look like pretty poor solder joints.

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Tomr1088 said:

As far as the resistance readings on the v200. I tried to solder the 510 better. Idk if the solder made connection to the wire farther in the 510. But when I looked inside for the first time the wire looks like it wasn't bonded to the solder. And the connection to the board same thing. On the 510 it almost just looked like the wire was just sticking out of the solder. But not fused with it. I tried beefing it up more and reheated the solder connection to the board but they look like pretty poor solder joints.



I noticed the wire on the 510 wasn't soldered very well. The cover on my wire was burnt (not silicone) and thick stranded wire so very stiff. I haven't had an issue with the resistance so I left it alone. I'll probably open it up again to change the power connectors later on. 
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monster92 said:

Well with all these Hana v200 issues I'm worried mine will be the same... Mine will be in tomorrow. I'll take it apart and have a look and I'll get back tomorrow. John do you have any information about this?



The only real issue is the ribbon cable being pinched by the fire button. Everything else is just us nitpicking at what we would've done better. The mod is the perfect size for me and the 950mah lipo lasts a day for me so I'm happy with it. 

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[/QUOTE]

The only real issue is the ribbon cable being pinched by the fire button. Everything else is just us nitpicking at what we would've done better. The mod is the perfect size for me and the 950mah lipo lasts a day for me so I'm happy with it. 

[/QUOTE] I know but with us paying $200 for a mod you'd think it wouldn't be this bad. Anyways, I should at least take it apart to make sure the ribbon cable isn't pinched? Or jut listen to the sounds of the button clicks and if the fire button sounds different then take it apart?

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KTMRider said:

[QUOTE=monster92]Well with all these Hana v200 issues I'm worried mine will be the same... Mine will be in tomorrow. I'll take it apart and have a look and I'll get back tomorrow. John do you have any information about this?



The only real issue is the ribbon cable being pinched by the fire button. Everything else is just us nitpicking at what we would've done better. The mod is the perfect size for me and the 950mah lipo lasts a day for me so I'm happy with it. 

[/QUOTE] Yes but I mean for 200 bucks I'd make someone a mod better. And not using silicone stranded wire I feel is just a weird decision. Why would anyone wanna use wire that stuff for something always moving.
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KTMRider said:

[QUOTE=monster92]Well with all these Hana v200 issues I'm worried mine will be the same... Mine will be in tomorrow. I'll take it apart and have a look and I'll get back tomorrow. John do you have any information about this?



The only real issue is the ribbon cable being pinched by the fire button. Everything else is just us nitpicking at what we would've done better. The mod is the perfect size for me and the 950mah lipo lasts a day for me so I'm happy with it. 

[/QUOTE] If the fire button sounds different from the rest I should probably take it apart right?
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KTMRider said:

[QUOTE=monster92]Well with all these Hana v200 issues I'm worried mine will be the same... Mine will be in tomorrow. I'll take it apart and have a look and I'll get back tomorrow. John do you have any information about this?



The only real issue is the ribbon cable being pinched by the fire button. Everything else is just us nitpicking at what we would've done better. The mod is the perfect size for me and the 950mah lipo lasts a day for me so I'm happy with it. 

[/QUOTE] I just think for 200 bucks it could've been better. Idk why they wouldn't use stranded silicone wire anyways. Seems like a no brainier. And I mean if they wanted to throw stuff together why not just go into the mod enclosure business. Then I could've done all this myself. I essentially assembled it all over again
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blueridgedog said:

KTMRider:  Don't forget the battery connector.



Yeah, not ideal but I've been vaping on mine for 3 days (1 day with a dead screen) and no issues with the connector. I only vape at 20w and my preheat is set to 60w. I definitely wouldn't recommend this mod to anyone vaping over 60w unless they change the connector (either Hana or DIY). 
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I think the blame is also Evolv and not only manufacturer that assembles worse than the Chinese.
It should give guidelines for assembly by Modders ...
Who pays for all this damage? The losers is especially Evolv sees frustrate their technological efforts because from today, given the problems, fewer people will buy a DNA200.
Evolv should call HANA to find an agreement on how to compensate around the world and sold as quickly as possible.
Thank you!

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Evolv clearly stated in the 200 datasheet wire Gauge usage and peak current... Modders should be able to find appropriately rated power connectors or solder the battery to the board. The screw posts are also clearly labeled as ground plane, so a modder assembling with a conductive fitting that overlaps onto a solder plane or via is just sloppy in my opinion.

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RallyRace said:

I think the blame is also Evolv and not only manufacturer that assembles worse than the Chinese.
It should give guidelines for assembly by Modders ...
Who pays for all this damage? The losers is especially Evolv sees frustrate their technological efforts because from today, given the problems, fewer people will buy a DNA200.
Evolv should call HANA to find an agreement on how to compensate around the world and sold as quickly as possible.
Thank you!

Don't be so harsh. After all this is a beta testing period. For reasons like this. Of course some people will not buy one because of issues seen during beta. Most of which are not evolv fault. Evolv clearly stated the specs in which to build the unit. And they have been taking care of problems free of charge even ones they don't have too.
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I have a newly failed Hana V200. I suspect that I have a bad lipo cell.

The mod flashes the message "IMBALANCED BATTERY" on every puff.

Escribe Device Monitor shows "Cell 1" voltage dropping sharply to 3.09v on every puff. The other 2 cells only drop to approximately 4.1v, and remain consistent with one another.
Cells 2 and 3 then take a few minutes to charge back to 4.2v, while Cell 1 takes multiple hours to get back to 4.2v. After another puff, the same cycle repeats.

The mod will not fire above any wattage that draws Cell 1 to 3.09v. The "IMBALANCED BATTERY" screen flashes and the wattage drops sharply. Currently unable to get the mod to fire above 50W, and it won't maintain even that for more than a second.

I've emailed Hana (twice now) with no response. I'm sure they're swamped, since this thing took about a full day of normal use before it failed.

Starting to consider cracking the thing open and taking on the repair process myself. I have a feeling I'll be happier with the result - as opposed to sending it back, waiting multiple weeks, and getting it back in a similar state that it shipped in.

Anyone know which lipo Hana used in these? Or, which lipo would fit? I'm preparing myself for the possibility that I'll be soldering on some new battery connectors at the very least.

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I've had my preproduction V200 for about a week. Also have 3 dna 40s, pre resistance lock. All 3 40s read resistense perfectly and all act the same at the same exact settings for all builds. The 200 shows a lower resistance and goes into temp protect almost immediately, then tastes burnt when put back on a 40 for a bit, after cooling devices and tanks. All I've done is register the device on Evolv and down load the program. Are factory default settings the same? Can they be changed if not? Since getting I have not had the time to sit down at a PC and change settings. I'm using kanger sub tanks with rba deck builds. Have 2 built, one at .12 and one at .15. Like said both work perfectly on the 40s, un-usable on the 200. It doesn't ask if 'new coil' either. Very frustrating! But my screen works perfectly well thus far! The 3 40s are 1 V4D, and 2V4s'. Screen does go wonky on the v4D, but won't send back because everything else is flawless. I did have a v4mini that I sent back and traded for another slim. It was acting similar to the V200. Any advice?

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Wow, I have been using and loving this board so much but I had mamu's screen holder so it made it easy to tuck it under and avoid the fire button but I could tell it could be an issue if you don't do something to avoid it. It's sad to see hana was messing up and properly securing the screen to were the cable wasn't getting in the switches way with double sided foam tape or something else.  I don't get it. But hey I am glad they caught the issue before they kept pumping out mods with the problem. These kinds of things are not the fault of the chip but of the mod maker imo and I hope people understand that.

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