Hana V200

[Believe58]

I have been following the DNA200 forum on ECF and finally became curious of the Hana issues and read the whole thread. I have a real early release. I bought it on the day it came out. Checked my e-mail, July 26,2015. At first the power button seemed a little wonky. I would push it but sometimes it would not fire. It seemed kind of crunchy. I would have to push a little harder to get past it. I figured it was just some dust because it works fine now. I do not have another TC device to compare resistance to but on kanthal builds there is a 0.01 difference usually. Comparing what builds are supposed to be through steam engine and what shows up on screen and through Escribe are pretty accurate. But going back to my original point, considering the original crunchiness, should I be worried something came lose when it freed up? Thanks.

RickT

[blueridgedog]

Sounds like screen pinch...worth looking at to verify.

[KTMRider]

MikeTheVapeDude said:

What would be the WH on the V200? 900Mah is 9.99WH so I assume 950 is 10.545WH? Correct me if I'm wrong. Plus, this has a 1amp charger and it only charges at like .44A

I set mine to 10.55Wh. 

It does have a 1a charger. If you're only getting .44a, try a different cable or different USB power supply. 

[Rich Smith]

Has anyone, or Hana, figured out there are several with a 510 problem? I've called several times, no answer. I did not leave a message. I imagine they are scrambling about now to get production V200s out. When I had a v4 mini, it read resistense wrong. Paid to send it back, they replaced it, same issue right out of the box. They said it might have been a grounding issue. In kanthal as you guys know it's not as big of a deal, in nickel it is! They ended up letting me trade in the mini for a 2nd v4 slim. It and my other 2 dna 40s are relatively perfect. This V200 is acting the same way as the v4 mini and I am beyond frustrated! They should have made clear pre-production models may have bugs! I would gave opted out of spending 200 if I knew exactly what I might be getting into. I'm fine with learning how to use escribe, but with a wonky 510, what's the point? If I wanted a 200 watt cloud blowing machine, could have saved a ton of money and headaches. John, if you've read this, can you please ask Hana what they are going to do about all the issues? I didn't spend $200 to become a modder having to tear it apart to try to fix it. If I am asking too much as Evolv only makes the chip, not the device, I apologize for asking.

[MikeTheVapeDude]

I Q-Tipped a solution onto my threads by loctite and it made them oh-so-slightly thicker and moved the wire soldered to the pin slightly. All 510 issues solved. So now my device is all good. Question, using TC, does the DNA200 has a 'dry coil' thing? I vape at 480F with a preheat wattage of 75W, then it drops down to 48W. But I've been getting dry hits. Any reason why?

[John]

Can you post a device monitor screenshot of your dry puffs? With temperature and power displayed. You shouldn't ever be getting dry hits, unless something isn't cooperating or you have the temperature set too high. Looking at the graph should show us what's up. 

[VapingBad]

Wouldn't Loctite degrade it's accuracy reading small changes in resistance?

[Tomr1088]

I've narrowed my Hana v200 problem down to exclusively being an issue with 510 grounding. My 510 threads to board ground was .20 ohm. While my case to board ground was .00 ohm. Something with the 510 to case is wrong. Possibly anodizing still on the threads of the case

[blueridgedog]

VapingBad said:

Wouldn't Loctite degrade it's accuracy reading small changes in resistance?

I assumed they went to a nut and a ground plate as I thought that it would have gotten in the way of the case ground as well.

[MikeTheVapeDude]

VapingBad said:

Wouldn't Loctite degrade it's accuracy reading small changes in resistance?

I notice no difference at all, but I used a VERY small amount. I think it was mostly my 510 needing to be broken in, which I've never had happen. TC still works great, resistance reads great. I thought the same thing and SE and Escribe showed me it's still a-going great.

John said:

Can you post a device monitor screenshot of your dry puffs? With temperature and power displayed. You shouldn't ever be getting dry hits, unless something isn't cooperating or you have the temperature set too high. Looking at the graph should show us what's up. 

It was the build, it had a short in it because half the time I'd have to mess with the screw but it wasn't reading the resistance right. New build the problem went away completely.

blueridgedog said:

[QUOTE=VapingBad]Wouldn't Loctite degrade it's accuracy reading small changes in resistance?

I assumed they went to a nut and a ground plate as I thought that it would have gotten in the way of the case ground as well.[/QUOTE]

I didn't install a new 510, just, made the one in it slightly better. All my issues are resolved and the device works great, now I'll be straying from this thread for now.

[Tomr1088]

John and Brandon I'm hoping you can let me know what to do. I have finally 100 percent figured out my problem with my v200. After fixing the 510 positive wire, installing bullet connectors for my battery, and replacing a screen my Hana was acting up with .04 builds reading at .243 ohm and always fluctuating. I eventually came t the conclusion that it is indeed the 510 to case ground like my multimeter confirmed. I clamped a piece of silicone 16 gauge wire between my Atty and the 510 connector. Then I touched the other end to board ground while having atomizer analyzer open. And what do u know the fluctuating .24 ish reading went to a rock solid .042. Question is idk how to remove this 510. I've tried with a massive flat head but idk. And I don't think I can solder to it. So anyways I'm assuming you would be able to fix it or does Hana have too. I know my beta mod is on the way so whatever works will work for me. If the 510 from the beta mod can somehow be fitted to the Hana that would be nice. I mean I guess I just need to get it out and most likely clean the threads. But if I can id rather go to a different 510 option. Especially since the Hana has no movement. It would be awesome if the beta mods 510 was compatible. So anyone else experiencing an issue like this with unsteady resistance. Probably is a 510 ground. I wish I could take the 510 out cause I bet there's anodizing on the threads. If so that's very poor manufacturing. I'm really regretting this 200 dollar "high end" mod lol. First time I spent this much on something I didn't make figuring hey I always wanted a Hana. But NOPE

[Tomr1088]

I know I could retrofit a varitube 510 but I like the Hana and beta style 510 and if I could get one to work perfectly and allow more movement of the 510 pin for longer Atty pins then this mod would be 100 percent worth the money I spent. I can't thread most of my attys down due to the battery but if I can get a decent 510 without going to a standard diy one I'll be a happy guy

[MikeTheVapeDude]

Tomr1088 said:

I know I could retrofit a varitube 510 but I like the Hana and beta style 510 and if I could get one to work perfectly and allow more movement of the 510 pin for longer Atty pins then this mod would be 100 percent worth the money I spent. I can't thread most of my attys down due to the battery but if I can get a decent 510 without going to a standard diy one I'll be a happy guy

Unless you gut the device and want to spend a while beating and vicing at that thing, it's not coming out, not easily. Your best bet would be to take a fairly thin 510, like a LP V4 Fat Daddy, and drilling directly through the 510 connection and as you said, retrofitting it into the mod. The one that's in there is threaded in TIGHTLY and then there's glue on it. It's not coming easily. So either gut the mod and find a way to get a solid hold on that thing and TURN like you never have before. Or drill through it. That's basically the only two options you have unless you can get the one you already have to work. The threads in it are so thin for a non-stripped 510, and even though mine is good for the moment, I know in a month or two I'm gonna have to replace it. So, pick your poison. Retrofitting or brute force.

[Tomr1088]

I work in the auto industry so stuck bolts are no obstacle lol. I just don't want to remove it without a replacement. But yea I think either way it's very poor construction on Hana's part

[KTMRider]

I think a better solution would be to figure out what's wrong with your 510 and make it work as intended rather than mutilate it until the mod is scrap metal. If you don't know how and it doesn't work, send it back to Hana and have them fix it or replace it. You will not be able to get a VT 510 or FDV 510 to work in the enclosure easily and reliably. 

From what I know of the 510 Hana is using, there's a snap ring on the bottom that holds the spring loaded 510 pin and insulator of some sort. The top landing pad and threads are a separate piece that's threaded into the mod and is 16mm. I doubt they used a thread locker as that would most likely result in a bad ground. If you're intent on taking it out, try heating the enclosure to expand the aluminum around the 16mm threads before unscrewing. 

Again, the Hana 510 is way better than a FDV 510. I doubt it will only last a couple of months.

[MikeTheVapeDude]

KTMRider said:

I think a better solution would be to figure out what's wrong with your 510 and make it work as intended rather than mutilate it until the mod is scrap metal. If you don't know how and it doesn't work, send it back to Hana and have them fix it or replace it. You will not be able to get a VT 510 or FDV 510 to work in the enclosure easily and reliably. 

From what I know of the 510 Hana is using, there's a snap ring on the bottom that holds the spring loaded 510 pin and insulator of some sort. The top landing pad and threads are a separate piece that's threaded into the mod and is 16mm. I doubt they used a thread locker as that would most likely result in a bad ground. If you're intent on taking it out, try heating the enclosure to expand the aluminum around the 16mm threads before unscrewing. 

Again, the Hana 510 is way better than a FDV 510. I doubt it will only last a couple of months.

The threads are like paper, before I modified it certain devices sunk down past the threads and hit the pin. I'm not understanding why a FD or VT wouldn't work well. You connect the wire, and you use a wire to get a real solid ground. People use them in DIY DNA200D mods well, so I cannot see any reason why it wouldn't work in the Hana.

Also, I'll never send this thing to Hana unless it's an absolute brick. I don't even trust them to properly fix it, and god knows how long it'll be held hostage by them. My buddy sent in a V4 DNA40 for repair and got it back 43 days later only to have the same issue occur within a month or two. So that's last case. This 510 is not better than a Fat Daddy, this 510 sucks. Opinions are opinions, but I know I can get a solid positive and a solid ground, so there's no reason an aftermarket 510 would suffer in loss of quality of performance.


Not to mention I've seen Hana V4's with Fat Daddy's in them working perfectly.

[Tomr1088]

KTMRider said:

I think a better solution would be to figure out what's wrong with your 510 and make it work as intended rather than mutilate it until the mod is scrap metal. If you don't know how and it doesn't work, send it back to Hana and have them fix it or replace it. You will not be able to get a VT 510 or FDV 510 to work in the enclosure easily and reliably. 

From what I know of the 510 Hana is using, there's a snap ring on the bottom that holds the spring loaded 510 pin and insulator of some sort. The top landing pad and threads are a separate piece that's threaded into the mod and is 16mm. I doubt they used a thread locker as that would most likely result in a bad ground. If you're intent on taking it out, try heating the enclosure to expand the aluminum around the 16mm threads before unscrewing. 

Again, the Hana 510 is way better than a FDV 510. I doubt it will only last a couple of months.

The problem is the landing pad and outer 510 piece. I know how to take it apart. It most certainly is locked in good and will be mutated removing. But if I could get say a reference mod 510 I could retap or do whatever to get it to work. Hana most certainly either didn't remove the anodizing on the outer 510 threads in the case or the threads are coated with whatever thread lock they used. I agree that I like the 510. Just the ground issue which isn't the 510. It's how the 510 was installed

[KTMRider]

MikeTheVapeDude said:

The threads are like paper, before I modified it certain devices sunk down past the threads and hit the pin. I'm not understanding why a FD or VT wouldn't work well. You connect the wire, and you use a wire to get a real solid ground. People use them in DIY DNA200D mods well, so I cannot see any reason why it wouldn't work in the Hana.

Also, I'll never send this thing to Hana unless it's an absolute brick. I don't even trust them to properly fix it, and god knows how long it'll be held hostage by them. My buddy sent in a V4 DNA40 for repair and got it back 43 days later only to have the same issue occur within a month or two. So that's last case. This 510 is not better than a Fat Daddy, this 510 sucks. Opinions are opinions, but I know I can get a solid positive and a solid ground, so there's no reason an aftermarket 510 would suffer in loss of quality of performance.


Not to mention I've seen Hana V4's with Fat Daddy's in them working perfectly.

16mm hole.

[KTMRider]

Tomr1088 said:

 The problem is the landing pad and outer 510 piece. I know how to take it apart. It most certainly is locked in good and will be mutated removing. But if I could get say a reference mod 510 I could retap or do whatever to get it to work. Hana most certainly either didn't remove the anodizing on the outer 510 threads in the case or the threads are coated with whatever thread lock they used. I agree that I like the 510. Just the ground issue which isn't the 510. It's how the 510 was installed

Your 510 might just be faulty or bad soldering. My 510 works great and is very accurate. 

[Tomr1088]

KTMRider said:

[QUOTE=Tomr1088] The problem is the landing pad and outer 510 piece. I know how to take it apart. It most certainly is locked in good and will be mutated removing. But if I could get say a reference mod 510 I could retap or do whatever to get it to work. Hana most certainly either didn't remove the anodizing on the outer 510 threads in the case or the threads are coated with whatever thread lock they used. I agree that I like the 510. Just the ground issue which isn't the 510. It's how the 510 was installed

Your 510 might just be faulty or bad soldering. My 510 works great and is very accurate. [/QUOTE] The 510 isn't faulty. I re soldered the pin. It's great. There's nothing that's gonna be faulty about the metal. It's the 510 housing to case connection. That's it.

[KTMRider]

Tomr1088 said:

 The 510 isn't faulty. I re soldered the pin. It's great. There's nothing that's gonna be faulty about the metal. It's the 510 housing to case connection. That's it.

So your 510 has a faulty connection to the case? Is that not faulty?

[v200hopeful]

My screen went out about a week after I got my v200. No reply to multiple emails to Hana. My ohms are also all over the place now. Watching on Escribe it either goes back to default 8.5 watts or shoots up to 150-200 watts and smokes the coils. The screen on my V200 is actually falling into the device. I guess as of right now I have a $200 paper weight.

[MikeTheVapeDude]

KTMRider said:

[QUOTE=MikeTheVapeDude]
The threads are like paper, before I modified it certain devices sunk down past the threads and hit the pin. I'm not understanding why a FD or VT wouldn't work well. You connect the wire, and you use a wire to get a real solid ground. People use them in DIY DNA200D mods well, so I cannot see any reason why it wouldn't work in the Hana.

Also, I'll never send this thing to Hana unless it's an absolute brick. I don't even trust them to properly fix it, and god knows how long it'll be held hostage by them. My buddy sent in a V4 DNA40 for repair and got it back 43 days later only to have the same issue occur within a month or two. So that's last case. This 510 is not better than a Fat Daddy, this 510 sucks. Opinions are opinions, but I know I can get a solid positive and a solid ground, so there's no reason an aftermarket 510 would suffer in loss of quality of performance.


Not to mention I've seen Hana V4's with Fat Daddy's in them working perfectly.

16mm hole.[/QUOTE]


Drill through the ENTIRE 16mm 510 and ground it to the old one, solder new 510 pin to board. Or just use a mounting plate and a spacer after removing the old one.

[Tomr1088]

KTMRider said:

[QUOTE=Tomr1088]
 The 510 isn't faulty. I re soldered the pin. It's great. There's nothing that's gonna be faulty about the metal. It's the 510 housing to case connection. That's it.

So your 510 has a faulty connection to the case? Is that not faulty?

[/QUOTE] No. It's the way it was installed. There's something between the case and 510. Be it thread lock or glue. Explain to me why it would be faulty it's a solid piece of metal. If I jump a wire from any metal ground on the 510 to the board ground the problem is fixed. It's the way the 510 is grounded. Which is through itself. Which is a solid piece of metal. Which contacts only the case threads. The only removable or faulty parts would be an issue with a positive connection which isn't the case. It works great. Hana just messed up. Why are you trying to act like I have no idea what I'm doing. I deal with electrical diagnosis every day.

[KTMRider]

I have no love for Hana, especially after this last experience with them but you guys seem to think that the 510 is somehow inferior to a FDV or VT. I love VT 510's and have them in all the mods I build and keep a few spares around. They all work great with no issues in resistance at all. My only experience with the FDV is the v4 and that just sucks. The spring is weak and really easy to fck up soldering. An installer can also weaken the spring further by applying too much heat while soldering the 510 pin. 

So it's installed wrong or badly which is causing a faulty 510 connection. Wouldn't you agree? What would you call it then? Have you checked the ground connection from the board to the case? 

I was just trying to help, going on what you posted but if you're gonna act like a candyass about it, send it back to Hana or Evolv and let them fix it. Or did you just want to post your problem just to hear yourself btch about it?