case analyzer: run with or without atty?

[mactavish]

Topic says it all. Did not see it mentioned in the manual. Wondering what is the best/proper accurate way when running Case Analyzer, NO atty attached, or leave one sitting on the mod?

[Gm111]

An atty will not make a difference too case analyser.. You only need an atty for the battery analyser..

[mactavish]

Thanks, that's how I ran it. Longggggg ..... Test.

[Gm111]

Yes a very long test.

[Nick]

One of the most important things to do is testing the resistance of your 510 and its wiring loop. The hands down best way to do this is with a plug that threads into the 510 and basically hard shorts it. You can then use the atomizer analyzer to read the resistance, and take about 90% of this value and enter it into the Mod Resistance field. The improvement this makes is shocking to say that least. Failing a Copper slug/plug that you can thread in, you can take an old atomizer and solder the posts together, although you wont get the most accurate reading and may need to use 60-70% of the value.

Bob Lewis on Facebook is a board Vendor and is currently working on having copper plugs machined with a 510 thread in order to perform this test and dial in the mod. Get in touch with him if you want to get in line for one. This is a small extremely inexpensive tool that I believe every modder should have to dial in their specific designs.

[vegabob]

Hello I am working on having a test plug made now. I did a quick test last night on one of my mods and found the mod had .08ohms of internal resistance, then went to the Mod tab and put the resistance in Escribe and it made a big difference. Hoping the plugs will be made very soon. We feel every mod should be tested and the internal resistance set.

[mactavish]

Nick said:

One of the most important things to do is testing the resistance of your 510 and its wiring loop. The hands down best way to do this is with a plug that threads into the 510 and basically hard shorts it. You can then use the atomizer analyzer to read the resistance, and take about 90% of this value and enter it into the Mod Resistance field. The improvement this makes is shocking to say that least. Failing a Copper slug/plug that you can thread in, you can take an old atomizer and solder the posts together, although you wont get the most accurate reading and may need to use 60-70% of the value.

Bob Lewis on Facebook is a board Vendor and is currently working on having copper plugs machined with a 510 thread in order to perform this test and dial in the mod. Get in touch with him if you want to get in line for one. This is a small extremely inexpensive tool that I believe every modder should have to dial in their specific designs.

I don't do Facebook. Perhaps invite Bob Lewis to the site and allow him to post info and links to this "plug", I would buy one.

[vegabob]

Hello I am Bob from Facebook

[mactavish]

vegabob said:

Hello I am Bob from Facebook

Great, hope you can make a thread post when you have something. I as going to try and find a proper thread size copper rod, but that's tough where I live. Any idea of ETA?

[vegabob]

I am doing them as fast as we can.

[Nick]

mactavish said:

[QUOTE=vegabob]Hello I am Bob from Facebook

Great, hope you can make a thread post when you have something. I as going to try and find a proper thread size copper rod, but that's tough where I live. Any idea of ETA?[/QUOTE]

We just spoke about them last night, Bob is working with his machinist to get them made as quickly as possible. It shouldn't be long, it is a very simple design. Sourcing the copper rod stock will probably take longer than spinning the first run off the lathe. 

[vegabob]

I should have more info in the next couple of days.

[mactavish]

Now all we will need is a proper resister to buy, so we can run the full battery analizer test, not having to load up an atty with wire, can be a fire hazard if not done properly, or not having assess to a huge setup of heat sinks. I would think another type of screw on 510 device/resister might be possible. Both of these tools could be made available to mod makers as well so they could do the testing and supply the numbers with their mods. Granted, doing ones own tests on their particular devices at home, would be best!

[Nick]

mactavish said:

Now all we will need is a proper resister to buy, so we can run the full battery analizer test, not having to load up an atty with wire, can be a fire hazard if not done properly, or not having assess to a huge setup of heat sinks. I would think another type of screw on 510 device/resister might be possible. Both of these tools could be made available to mod makers as well so they could do the testing and supply the numbers with their mods. Granted, doing ones own tests on their particular devices at home, would be best!

I am using 4 of these, mounted to an aluminum project box for additional heat sinking, and wired in parallel for .25 ohms. It handles the battery tests without breaking a sweat. 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008IDAD76?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

[mactavish]

If you get a chance, put up a quick photo of you wiring and this rig. Interested in how you connect it to the mod. This is affordable, but on the large size, guess it can't be made much smaller.

[vegabob]

So true

[Nick]

mactavish said:

If you get a chance, put up a quick photo of you wiring and this rig. Interested in how you connect it to the mod. This is affordable, but on the large size, guess it can't be made much smaller.

Here you go. I put a plug between the base and atty so you don't have to spin the whole setup onto the mod. Screw the atty in, plug it into the rest of the rig, and start the test.

https://instagram.com/p/9JsRgnCwWv/?taken-by=dogmods

[mactavish]

Very nice. Just a matter of making the time to make one.

[Nick]

mactavish said:

Very nice. Just a matter of making the time to make one.

Mine only took about a half hour. I just lined up the resistors, marked them with a sharpie, and ran the holes on the drill press. It doesn't have to be pretty, it just has to work and be able to dissipate the heat generated.

[retird]

vegabob said:

Hello I am working on having a test plug made now. I did a quick test last night on one of my mods and found the mod had .08ohms of internal resistance, then went to the Mod tab and put the resistance in Escribe and it made a big difference. Hoping the plugs will be made very soon. We feel every mod should be tested and the internal resistance set.

That will be a great tool.

I use a 510 to 510 sealed adapter (had a few laying around) that I dropped a ball of solder into it and torched it to create a dead short.  Adapter reads 0.000 ohms. shell to center pin.  Attached to my 2 identical devices  and ran Atty Analyzer and got 0.005 ohms on each device. Set to 0.004 (80%).

http://www.madvapes.com/v2-510-shorty-extension-sealed.html

[Margucci]

Nick said:

One of the most important things to do is testing the resistance of your 510 and its wiring loop. The hands down best way to do this is with a plug that threads into the 510 and basically hard shorts it. You can then use the atomizer analyzer to read the resistance, and take about 90% of this value and enter it into the Mod Resistance field. The improvement this makes is shocking to say that least. Failing a Copper slug/plug that you can thread in, you can take an old atomizer and solder the posts together, although you wont get the most accurate reading and may need to use 60-70% of the value.

you know what, it would be AMAZING if the companies which mass produce these mods just took this simple step to improve their product. if they have the ability to mill a case out of a chunk of metal i would assume that making a few shorting pins for themselves wouldnt be an issue at all. its the little things, you know. 

[cukrus]

Nick said:

One of the most important things to do is testing the resistance of your 510 and its wiring loop. The hands down best way to do this is with a plug that threads into the 510 and basically hard shorts it. You can then use the atomizer analyzer to read the resistance, and take about 90% of this value and enter it into the Mod Resistance field. The improvement this makes is shocking to say that least. Failing a Copper slug/plug that you can thread in, you can take an old atomizer and solder the posts together, although you wont get the most accurate reading and may need to use 60-70% of the value.

Bob Lewis on Facebook is a board Vendor and is currently working on having copper plugs machined with a 510 thread in order to perform this test and dial in the mod. Get in touch with him if you want to get in line for one. This is a small extremely inexpensive tool that I believe every modder should have to dial in their specific designs.

can you do a picture of this? I still don't understand how to get the correct mod ressitance

[VapingBad]

cukrus said:

[QUOTE=Nick]One of the most important things to do is testing the resistance of your 510 and its wiring loop. The hands down best way to do this is with a plug that threads into the 510 and basically hard shorts it. You can then use the atomizer analyzer to read the resistance, and take about 90% of this value and enter it into the Mod Resistance field. The improvement this makes is shocking to say that least. Failing a Copper slug/plug that you can thread in, you can take an old atomizer and solder the posts together, although you wont get the most accurate reading and may need to use 60-70% of the value.

Bob Lewis on Facebook is a board Vendor and is currently working on having copper plugs machined with a 510 thread in order to perform this test and dial in the mod. Get in touch with him if you want to get in line for one. This is a small extremely inexpensive tool that I believe every modder should have to dial in their specific designs.

can you do a picture of this? I still don't understand how to get the correct mod ressitance[/QUOTE]  

Make sure the mod resistance is set to zero before testing.

[Peter7734]

I know copper or brass would be best but why not use a 7x0.5mm tap?

[rask116@hotmail.com<rask1]

Hi everyone. New here but I have the vt 200 too and I'm confused a little here as well.

I used the copper wire method with the case analyzer in the Escribe software. Gave it a direct hard short (indicated by pressing the fire button) by placing the copper rod onto the center spring-loaded 510 and shorting it out by placing the edge of the rod onto the 510 side of the connector, then clicked on the unlock ohms and nothing happened, the question mark never changed. I then tried it both on lock ohms and override ohms with the same result.
 
So next, I took the copper rod and just held it in place onto the spring loaded 510 (making sure I didn't touch the side of the connector causing a hard short this time), then clicked on the unlock ohms button (center radio button in the Atomizer analyzer) waited until I got a stable reading and came up with .005.

So which is it? Hard short (which provided nothing, no matter how many times I tried) Or my second method, not a hard short, but using a copper rod on the center 510 floating pin and  not causing a hard short to the side of the 510.

Seems to me it's just reading the resistance of the copper wire. But I do get a reading not hard shorting it and  get nothing when I do.