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rask116@hotmail.com<rask1

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  • Full Name
    Tony Morris
  • Location
    oklahoma City, okla
  • What DNA product do you own or plan to buy?
    VT 200

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  1. What do you do if you broke the clip? The cable of the screen seems to still be in place, as it does work, however the little clip that is suppose to lock it in place, I somehow broke. And I was trying to be very careful when I removed the board out of my diy mod (had to remove the board to put in a bigger battery and solder longer + an - leads to the board) . Is there some sort of anything I can use to keep it secured into place so it won't come out?
  2. Jaquith , You are nuts. I offered you the simple math. End of story. The math proves what I stated. I don't give one iota what you used. You went totally off the deep end. Not surprised after reading more of your lunacy rants. . When I came here I just wanted to get an idea of what to use until I could run a test. 9.6 volts turned out to be just that thing that would be safe and allow me to vape my new mod until I could run the test. And our tests prove that to be correct. It's what my numbers, your numbers and 6 other pages of numbers comes out to. What you use, be it something for a tc or not! is irrelevant. The board will adjust what it needs for whatever you put on it. This chip isn't a d a m n flashlight with a simple bulb in it. Stop with that lame analogy dude. This is a complex computer board in our devises . It's programed to do a certain bunch of things utilizing it's power source. Now! My batteries , won't generally be the same as yours, even if we got the same ones, the same day, from the manufacturers factory itself. HOWEVER! once the battery Analyzer is run, we still won't be far apart despite what way we may have used to run the test and it can clearly be seen in each of our vtc5 graphs. . The point of the battery analyzer in the escribe software, is to tell the chip the best possible mAh your batteries have and when to shut things down This is done via the chipset using the algorithms that were programed into it by the designer/maker/ manufacturer. What you use to run the test is completely irrelevant. If you use a .4 ohm setup running it at 100w or run it at 1.5 ohms at 15w or what ever! your numbers will be close, within a few hundredths. Only difference is that with the .4 ohm at 100w you better have a way to keep things cooled down. With the 1.5 at 15 w it's going to take long tiem for the test to run. That's all there is to it! But your particular chip is going to do what it does. DO it man! Sit there for a day and run various tests using different settings (ohm and watt) but with the same set of batteries and you too will learn that your batteries are only going to give what they have and each reading will be different but not so far apart from one another to mean anything substantial for the need of the DNA chip.. We run the test, so the chip can best utilize what power your batteries will give to the chip. But we can't get a new dna 200 that uses 18650 batteries and use 11.1v in the escribe software to find out what our 3000, 2900,2600, 2500, mAh batteries equates to in wh for the chip . We can and should use 9.6 volts for that, when a person first gets their mod, so they can at least vape on it without blowing up the dna 200 chip before they can run a test. No wonder you're frustrated. You've not grasped even the most simplistic concept of how things work with this software or the chip itself. Yet you come in here to this thread with your disillusioned idea that you know more than any one else. Here's a reality check for you! Your words have proven that that you don't know much of anything. It's why you're frustrated here. You want to be right, but so many of us in this thread have proven you wrong at every turn. Now go play with your dna 200 and get out of here.
  3. You sound offended by something. No one said your method was wrong in any way. I've read every word in this thread as I stated. From everything I've seen from you, you do seem to be a bit too sensitive. But no matter. You can't argue with what the EScibe battery Analyzer does and as such, it is using 9.6v Do the math and you'll see it's close. mah x volts divided by 1000. 2600mAh x 9.6v = 24,960. 24,960 divided by 1000 = 24.96wh. My reading from my Battery Analyzer test came in a bit higher @ 25.15wh (maybe my vtc5s are newer is the only reason) while yours came in a bit lower at 24.81wh. Nothing wrong dude so chill. No one is saying you or yours is wrong man. My point is , was and remains, that the escribe software seems to use 9.6 volts in it's calculating while running the Battery Analyzer. As such and for those that just got theirs and hasn't had time to run a test, just use 9.6 volts with the software to get your Wh. It'll put em in the ball park. You of course have the right to disagree, but if you do, you best think about things a bit longer.
  4. Seven pages of diatribe and I've not seen one really definitive answer to things. We only have 4 settings to deal with in escribe. One being "TYPE"= either Lithium Polymer, LiFePO4, power supply. Yet I've read some saying set it to Lithium Polymer and some saying LiFePO4. of course with countless words arguing about it. So which is it for 3x 18650? Second setting is capacity, well 3 x 4.2 volts is 12.6v and 3 x 3.2v is 9.6. (generally what many call a safe stopping point on 18650s) Default of escribe is 11.1v So what is a good starting point to set this capacity to for those who 1. Have just gotten their WisMec ReuLeaux and haven't yet gotten to run the battery analyzer or 2. Simply don't have a computer or for whatever other reason (including pure laziness) can't run it. And then there is cell soft cutoff. Again up and down mixed messages on this too. So what is it for a good starting point? I ask because I just got mine this evening. I spent all the time reading this thread and I'm sitting here scratching my head about a whole lot of things. I even went to the WisMec site and downloaded their suggested files which set my capacity to 21. 44wh, which to me makes no sense at all, since I'm running 3x 2600mAh Sony vtc 5s. If I do the math for 11.1v for 2600mAh, it equates to 28.96wh Even if I just use 90% of this, we are talking 26.07wh with a 11.1v setting. BTW 3.7v x 3 is the 11.1v default. Not a bad setting if you ask me, since most good 18650s will charge all the way up to 4.2 volts and it takes awhile for them to get down to 3.7 volts in most mods running between 35w and 50w. HOWEVER and looking at the vtc5 chart Jaquith provided and shared again on this page by Joei . I have to assume, going by the vtc5 chart, that the wh shown on the chart of 24.81 wh is done at 9.6 volts, since the math for 9.6 volts on 2600mAh batteries equates to 24.96wh. 9.6 divided by 3 cells is 3.2v a cell. Then we have that final choice. CHARGING MODE = Maximum Puffs or Maximum Recharges. (have no idea what either means really. Now as soon as I get those vtc5 charged, I am defiantly going to do the battery analyzer. I'll be using the loop coil method with 20 ga 317L ss and an ohm rating of .21. Probably do it at 50w. But until then, I think we need a definitive starting point listed for everyone. As in: Set your type as __________Lithium Polymer Set your Capacity at this ________ use the EScribe software with your batteries mAh and 9.6v Set soft cutoff at ___________ 2.5 Set Charging mode to ________..... I left mine at Maximum puffs As soon as you can though, run the Battery Analyzer or take it to someone you know who can do it for you. But use this to at least get you going until you can run the analyzer. When you take into consideration that the lgs of 3000mAh show on the provided chart above of 28.72wh. I suppose the best answer for everyone and for a beginning start for your particular set of batteries, would be to use 9.6v and not the 11.1 default to figure your wh with the ESribe software. That will get you into the ball park, until you can run a test. Cut off voltage I suppose for a good start would be 2.5v Okay just finished running the battery Analyzer on my vtc 5s.
  5. Since my replacement of my vt200 (my first one just died right in mid vape), I ran one test after charging and then vaping on it down to nothing with the standard escribe default. I then charged the battery to full capacity (well as far as it would go at 4.17v) and ran my first test using two loops of 20 ga. SS wire (517L), ohming out at .21ohms and ran it at 50 watts (btw this stuff barely got even warm). First test gave me a 10.978 Wh. After two days, I've gone back and ran the test again, except at 40 watts and came up with 10.92 Wh. But both tests are far and away from the advertised 1300mAh. Not sure if running the test again, but changing the wire to 20ga kanthal, yet keeping it as close to .21 ohms as I can, would give me any better results. Any thoughts? 10.92 x 1000 / 11.1 = 983.78 mAh
  6. Margucci TY So if I have this right. If I do this and it reads .0004, I then multiply it by .8 which then makes it .0032, then this latter number is what I put into the Mod resistance area and then upload it to the devise? I'm sorry to be pestering and all, but I bought my Hcigar on Oct. 16th from a known retailer known both online and that have a retail store in my area ( where I bought mine from) and last night, while playing the game of World of Warcraft and vaping away on it. It just out right died. I took it back to this seller and they were not going to warranty it. Claiming that they had only a two week return policy. There online store policy is even worse then that. And since we all know Hcigar is next to impossible to deal with too if you get to have a chance to at all. I was pretty much sitting on a $170.00 brick of ugly stuff. But I raised a little H E double hockey sticks and eventually got the guy to replace it. Now I've got this new one and I want to make darn sure I have everything set just right before I use it. Right now I'm real gun shy of using it much at all (if at all for that matter) since he made it clear, that if it went even one day over this next 2 week period of time without breaking, but did, he wasn't going to warranty it.
  7. Hi Nic. Beautiful Idea A Question. Those are 1 Ohm Screw Tap Mounted Aluminum Housed Wire-wound Resistors. How did you manage to get them to read .25 ohms? My limited understanding is... when wired in parallel, they should read 4 ohms + (adding to it the resistance of the connecting wire too) total resistance. No? Method two of my hind sight thinking tells me that maybe each resistor is playing off each other. IE: one resistor is 1 ohm, put another behind it and it then becomes 1/2 (.5)ohm. Add one again, making it 3 in line wired in parallel would then, I would think, take it down to .25 and the forth one would 0 out the ohms. LOL hind sight thinking isn't working for me either. I must be missing a very important part of electrical knowledge here. So could you explain please how with four you got .25 cuz I just purchased 2 sets of these and they are on the way. Got the connector too but I'm just going to mount them onto a piece of NDF. Don't want to waste a good project box. Smile
  8. Hi everyone. New here but I have the vt 200 too and I'm confused a little here as well. I used the copper wire method with the case analyzer in the Escribe software. Gave it a direct hard short (indicated by pressing the fire button) by placing the copper rod onto the center spring-loaded 510 and shorting it out by placing the edge of the rod onto the 510 side of the connector, then clicked on the unlock ohms and nothing happened, the question mark never changed. I then tried it both on lock ohms and override ohms with the same result. So next, I took the copper rod and just held it in place onto the spring loaded 510 (making sure I didn't touch the side of the connector causing a hard short this time), then clicked on the unlock ohms button (center radio button in the Atomizer analyzer) waited until I got a stable reading and came up with .005. So which is it? Hard short (which provided nothing, no matter how many times I tried) Or my second method, not a hard short, but using a copper rod on the center 510 floating pin and not causing a hard short to the side of the 510. Seems to me it's just reading the resistance of the copper wire. But I do get a reading not hard shorting it and get nothing when I do.
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