RDA retaining heat possible source of base resistance climbing?

[3DClouds]

So i use a Velocity RDA with a single spaced 6 wrap 26 AWG TI GR1 coil claptoned with 34 AWG TI GR1 both wires cleaned with ISO alcohol before wrapping the coil. Velocity is on a VaporShark DNA 200. I have been having issues with my ohms creeping up with use from .35 ohms to about .48 ohms and i suspect it could be my RDA retaining heat from chain vaping and that affecting my base ohms when it rechecks the ohms. The Velocity is a pretty big chunk of SS and it definitely retains some heat once it gets hot. It is enough to throw my temps off by about ~240 degrees F. I had been having issues with temp control not activating but i cleaned and polished my 510 of my RDA and mod to squeaky clean and it worked perfectly at first accurately reading .35 ohms with temp control working 100% accurate but with use it slowly creeped my resistance up to .48. I can feel my atomizer is warm and i think that is the reason for the creep. If i left it set to 420 degrees when it was reading .48 ohms it would max out around ~180 degrees in use. Would there be a way to fix this? Switch to a tank maybe to ensure the chamber is a more stable temp with less SS to get hot/retain heat? The liquid in the tank should help to keep things a stable temperature as well right? Ive been looking for an excuse to buy a Pico RTA but i was wondering if others have been having this issue. Should i just be locking the ohms? I usually don't because I read somewhere it's better not to but i suspect that's highly situational advice depending on what setup you would be using correct? Obviously i could just drop my temps down to 220 but the whole point for me is for it to be actually accurate ohms/temps and I find it difficult to accurately lock the resistance because it fluctuates when i go to press the fire button 5x to lock it on the mod. I wish I could manually set the locked ohms from the mod and not have to use EScribe to do that because 1. I know the correct ohms are .35 but the mod wants to read it as higher than it is because of the temperature of the coil/RDA and 2. I am a primary Mac user and I have to use a different computer for EScribe which is inconvient for me. One day I will BootCamp Windows onto my Mac but I dont have access to a Windows OS to install as of now. I use 2/23/16 firmware 1.0.45 escribe btw if that helps.

[black lace]

Sos to state the obvious but it can get overlooked. I dont use ti myselfe but feel that the moor bulk of material used for a coil, the constant heating and cooling of coil is slightly changing the resistance naturaly, so the moor material the moor change in resistance, obviouse, experimenting with coils is a pain and time consuming, i would suggest, go into wire wizard, steam engin, try setting up two or three different csv files for the coil and load the same two or three different profiles onto the mod, and switch between them until ect, waiting for someone to give you a recipie on a perticular build and give you a csv file to download would be nice,, setting your mods actual resistance would help make it measure and perform a little moor accuratly. there is a chap on hear i think his name is jalhaze or somthing, hes a real guru on the coils and files, i'll search his name for you and edit.... " jaquith " hes your man search his posts.. lock ohms on device locked . Press fire and up button..turn power and temp down first so they dont ajust the ohms.

[VapingBad]

The only times I have had res rise were over night when there was a connection issue, it may also be the clapton they can vary in res a bit.  I would just make sure the screws are tight, including the large screw in the atty 510 and if it still does it lock the resistance.  It wont be the wire profile, also check your mod resistance is not set too high it is normally < 0.010 ohm.

[black lace]

Think he said single coiling, , Dont use the ti myself but the twin ni claptons ive made i keep the lead legs as short as i can, so push the coil as close to the posts as you possibly dare, to try and keep it equal..

[3DClouds]

Honestly I don't even usually use TI claptons I just did it for giggles because the normal ones werent working out for me either but i find it actually gives me a denser vape i might need to try some 24 AWG TI soon. I also find keeping the legs as short as possible helps too and I've been coil building for years so i can do a spaced coil in my sleep so i don't think the actual coil is my problem. I frequently have times where my mod will go to sleep and when I wake it up and it will go out of temp mode. All my connections are tight and clean and my mod resistance is set to .007 so i think it could just be my CSV or maybe my TI? I use temco TI does anyone have experiences with using this and have a good CSV for it? I use them to get all my other wires so i trust them more than expensive "specialty" TI wires. Honestly im just waiting to jump the ship to the NIFE52 boat because TI has given me so many inconsistencies. I just want to stick a coil in there have and have it be stable and accurate without having to constantly fiddle with it like NI200 was for me on the DNA40. I just hate the way NI200 is to coil. TI is much easier to work with and tastes better but the accuracy has been difficult to nail down. It could be these crappy allen screws in my deck though I really need to buy those slotted ones.

PS I'm pretty sure it's my crappy allen screws loosening overnight and throughout use and my TI CSV and DNA200 are working perfectly. Thanks everybody maybe there's still hope for me and TI I still might buy a pico though lol.

[dwcraig1]

I would image that it's easy enough to cut the legs off by over tightening the grub screws in the posts but them not being tight enough is going to cause problems like you describe. It may be else where but it sounds like a connection issue.
I just about never use the hex key that comes with an atty, I have better ones.

[Spector NS5 RD]

lock your ohms when you first put on the room temp velocity.

[3DClouds]

I have yet to cut the legs by over tightening on a TI coil its much better than NI200 in that aspect. I also have a screwdriver with an allen key set I use but those allen head grub screws like to strip before I can get it as tight as I want. It definitely is the screws as I tightened them down and it immediately asked new coil and it was the accurate reading of .35 ohm. I'm definitely ordering those slotted grub screws when I get the chance and that should solve my problems until I can get me a good single coil tank.

[VapingBad]

dwcraig1 said:

I would image that it's easy enough to cut the legs off by over tightening the grub screws in the posts but them not being tight enough is going to cause problems like you describe. It may be else where but it sounds like a connection issue.
I just about never use the hex key that comes with an atty, I have better ones.

It is, I flattened the faces of the grub screws and removed the ridge in the post holes on some of my Aromamizer decks for using with twisted 2 and 2.5 mm wires. 

3D clouds I find twisted Ti works very well, even the cheap FT stuff.  I like this: 2 strands of 0.2 mm twisted cw, then 2 of those twisted ccw, so 4 strands in total, res is around 0.13 ohm and they vape well on DNA 40s (lower the temp 90 F), 75s & 200s.
 

[3DClouds]

I've only been doing non Clapton single spaced coils recently trying to work out the kinks I've gone through almost 8 ft of TI trying to get things up and going and that stuff is not cheap compared to nichrome. Now that I know what my problem is and I'm confident I can throw a coil in there and it last quite a while and be accurate once I get the new screws I might have to start making some claptoned helixes or fused claptons and try some dual coils for a more permanent build. I miss the density of my nichrome dual fused claptons but I guess that's to be expected going from dual micro coils to a single spaced coil.

[black lace]

(Stealth vape) post world wide and do Nife30 which is an awsome material, they also do Ni200 annealed and tempered its a doddle to make clapton strands, tempererd core annealed wraps.. all his stuff is good, i wouldnt use anywhere els.. You know tightening any multipuls of wire, it should squish, so you may be over tightening. The allen keys and grubs are made of toffee though.. Lamo. ""3dclouds""?? ya know at #5 you say youve been building coils for years.. are you a time travler?? Lol cuz stealth vape also sell parts for time machines.. the wheels fell off mine..

[3DClouds]

No need for personal attacks I've been building coils ever since the protank/ego was the hot shit. I don't remember exactly when that was but it was definitely years ago. I was just stating that I know what I'm doing when it comes to coil building. I'm not trying to brag dude.

For real though get out of here with the name-calling and sarcasm. Clearomizers have been around for over 3 years and I've been vaping since sometime in 2013. I don't need a time machine just saying.

[gratefulbuddy]

Take it with a grain of salt 3D. Usually those who resort to immature conversational tactics do so because of a lack of meaningful content. Its not worth your time to "feed the trolls".
I will agree with vapingbad - the only time I have had inconsistent ? readings was due to a cold solder joint on the 510 output from the board.
PS - I have been using rtas since 2011 (gg iAtty) so I can appreciate it doesn't take a time machine to have been twisting coils for years.

[black lace]

Whos he,, Unbalievable Anyone can read it was a light hearted joke, you have responded like a baby,,, strange!! i thought you said built for a giggle. I think ive rumbeled you though, ""come off it pal"", For my reading, what your saying now isnt realy consistent with your op..

[3DClouds]

Light hearted jokes don't begin with insults. I'll leave it at that.

[black lace]

At #11 i gave you some very sound information i can promis you, then i left two spaces and hiphoned off, and had a joke, i realy do appologise for causing you so much distress, i will feel guilty all day now, shame on me... LONDON

[mactavish]

I'm having a difficult time myself, with ohm creeping. First time I've ever had the issue on my VaporShark DNA200. I do single coil titanium builds, on many tanks. I have NEVER had to "lock ohms", better to let the DNA200 handle "refinement". Besides if your cold readings are off to start, locking ohms would be pointless. My first problems came with my new Kayfun v5. My build is rock solid at .28 ohms. I see proper ohm readings on 4 other mods. I've seen it at 28 ohms a few times on the K5, then it slowly starts to climb. Since the K5 reads properly on the other mods, and all my other tanks work fine on the VS, I don't get proper readings on the CoilMaster 521 Tab either. I started to take caliper measurements on some of my tanks, as well as the mods 510 connections. So far the Kayfun v5 has the shortest 510 of all my atties, and both the CoilMaster Tab, and the VaporShark, have the deepest 510 connectors. I'm thinking the connection point is just barely meeting. This is the only thing that makes sense to me at this point. BUT, I'm not 100% sure as I do get a reading on the VS and CM, and I can fire and Vape on the VS. I opened up the VS, but there is no way to adjust the 510 pin higher. And the new Kayfun v5 does NOT have an adjustable 510. So I may have to start "locking ohms" on the VS, assuming I see the correct ohms when the Atty is cold.

[dwcraig1]

Perhaps one of these or a 510 to 510 adapter would help you test your theory.

I believe your theory is a pretty good one, I doubt if locking the ohms will do good enough, a poor connection is just that....poor

[Spector NS5 RD]

dwcraig1 said:

Perhaps one of these or a 510 to 510 adapter would help you test your theory.

I believe your theory is a pretty good one, I doubt if locking the ohms will do good enough, a poor connection is just that....poor

i use one of these on my eleaf pico to let me use 25 mm tanks. it's not all that great for TC builds. if it's bumped hard or turned just a hair, kiss your stable connection goodbye. at least that's how mine performs. works best for plain old kanthal/non TC builds. that's my experience with these 510 heat sinks. 

[mactavish]

dwcraig1 said:

Perhaps one of these or a 510 to 510 adapter would help you test your theory.

I believe your theory is a pretty good one, I doubt if locking the ohms will do good enough, a poor connection is just that....poor

All I have so far is a 510/510 adapter, didn't help, those threads are short as well. Before totally losing my mind, I remember days a go I took the 510 pin/screw out of the bottom of the Kayfun v5, on this new model, all it does is hold in a bottom plate/cap. Put it back, and the ohms were good for awhile, then slowly began creeping up again. So I dismissed that as the problem, and went on to measuring 510 lengths thinking it had to be that. So after my first post earlier in this thread, I thought I'd take it off again to see if there was any juice under the bottom plate, nothing, and the 510 pin "seemed" tight. This time I made it really TIGHT, It does not have a lot of threading, non adjustable, but enough to hold the bottom plate/cap in place and of course make the positive connection. So far, after making the Atty 510 pin/screw SUPER TIGHT, the VS DNA200 is once again reading the proper ohms. It crept up from 27 to 28 ohms, which could be "refinement". Perhaps the flathead screw slot on the attys 510 pin is getting backed out a tiny bit whening screwing on and off devices. I'll reserve judgement until I see no ohm drifting for a few days. I'm praying this is the issue as after opening the VS, which is quite easy, I see no way to adjust the height of the mods spring loaded 510 pin. BTW: Totally agree on not locking the ohms on a DNA200 if at all possible. If one really has an ohm or connection issue, it seems that with locked ohms, the problem could be disguised from the user. Thanks dwcraig1, you have always been helpful.

[black lace]

Ive never seen anything like the adapter beffor, but better to customise that with a blob of solder on the center pin inside and out rather than mess up your mod and atty.. oh yeh i remember now cooling finns for a mutation x.

[mactavish]

ChunkyButt200 said:

i use one of these on my eleaf pico to let me use 25 mm tanks. it's not all that great for TC builds. if it's bumped hard or turned just a hair, kiss your stable connection goodbye. at least that's how mine performs. works best for plain old kanthal/non TC builds. that's my experience with these 510 heat sinks. 

I believe he was just suggesting it to see if I was making a good connection as my Kayfun has the shortest 510 pin of every atty I own, that in conjunction with my low VS DNA200 female 510, is not ideal. Hopefully what I did in the post above is the cure. SUPER TIGHT on the Kayfun 5, bottom 510 pin. As a side note, when I first received my VS, most of my attys, like stock Kanger SubTank mini's, etc, were NOT sitting flush, the worse one was my Morph tank. I had read of others with the same issue, so since it was under warranty, I returned it to VS, along with the Morph base, asking them to make it fit flush. When I got it back, everything was flush. Now I'm wondering how they did it? Since it's no longer under warranty and this ohm issue was making me crazy, I opened the VS up myself. A YouTube video showed how easy it was, 3 screws. BUT, unless they changed 510 parts, I see no way to raise it up, there are no adjustment points, the wire and caps just thread together, and the 510 block sits in a slot. Guess I'll have to call VS to find out. Seeing as I do see a connection, perhaps it's just enough.

[black lace]

Yes i know... ive had one or two kayfun, but (clones) where the base of the 510 threaded ground has been so close to the centerpin screw that it has shorted off the mod centerpin when screwed in and fiered, so had to disassemble and grind down and then when reasembled the center screw to live post has protruded half a mill to make a true contact. If thdt makes sence if not i'll put a pic up.

[mactavish]

Only thing that has worked for me is to make the Kayfun's 510 screw/pin SUPER TIGHT! It's been over 24 hours, including an overnight were the VS DNA200 was asleep, still holding ohms and has not drifted even 0.01 ohm. Still don't get accurate readings on my CoilMaster 521 Tab, I believe on that ohm reader/coil building station, the female 510 is a bit too low for the SHORT 510 pin on the Kayfun v5.

[black lace]

Was saying to Bill50 the other day and had allmost forgotten the reason why, "" but all my mods and attys are prety much married to each other, because ect ect. Onr reason or anouther..