gratefulbuddy

I always bend mine like so:

Your video shows someone running case analyzer on a DNA 75 device. I just used case analyzer on a range of DNA 75, DNA 75C, DNA 200, DNA 250 and DNA 250C boards. The single cell setup of my DNA 75s and 75Cs are the only ones that produce the absolute flat 0 current at the beginning of the test you are seeking.

I'm pretty sure the board needs some current to run the sensors and components to do this test. But I get it - you don't believe me or the help staff at Evolv. Maybe James will chime in at some point to clarify this matter further.

Your answer is right in your screenshot. The case analyzer is establishing a starting temperature for its test. Once the timer runs out the mod will charge at various currents and allow a cooling period between some of them. There will be a message and a timer for each portion of the test. Just be patient and let the test run. PS - I believe the case analyzer test needs to be run with a discharged battery since its using the heat generated from charging to obtain its results. Maybe the respondent got confused and thought you were running the battery analyzer utility and thats why they recommended a full charged battery. Also letting your device sit before running the case analyzer does not affect the time it takes to establish the starting temperature in my experience.

It will only ask if your new resistance is close to the old. Given enough difference in new vs prior resistance the board figures it has to be a different coil and won't bother asking.

Sounds like its locked. Did you try pressing the fire button 5 times to unlock?

Is the case grounded in a way so the 510 body is in a circuit with the battery negative?

But that bare wire for ground does not assist (even considering the "floating" setup) - this connection is already made internally on the board - and only opens up the possibility for problems. If the OUT wire were insulated it would be better but I am still not a fan of the soldering job done here For the "floating chip" setup you would need addl connection/s for battery negative and/or a GND connection

Okay, fair enough - no blame here but I still say - The bare wire running from B- to the GND connection is unnecessary and potentially problematic The bare wire connected to OUT is too close the the mounting hole for my comfort A similar setup could work if the board is making grounded contact with a conductive case that acts as a battery negative as well

That all sounds/seems appropriate

The B- SHOULD be connected to battery negative. The wire you have soldered from B- to the GND is unnecessary as the board has already connected these (and the ground points around the mounting holes) on the pcb. Also the OUT wire to atty looks like it is touching the grounded mounting hole next to it.

You can use a conductive mods body as a ground for the board and 510 without any additional ground wiring

James answered this a few years back: [QUOTE=James]The actual ramp up is in the milliseconds. What you are seeing is that the screen is updated four times per second with the average values from the past quarter second. So if you start firing half-way through that quarter second, the average will be between 0 (not firing) and your wattage, and that screen update will be at a midpoint. Take a look at Power in the Device Monitor to see what I mean. [/QUOTE]

My understanding is the battery discharge curve is only used for battery meter calculation. It should not affect actual battery life. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

Exact same thing happened to me. I was able to verify the same cable and pc recognized 7 other dna devices so I opened a ticket with evolv and got an rma a couple days later. It is now on its way back to evolv. Sorry its happened to you too.

Did some digging and found the answer from Evolv : [QUOTE=James]The actual ramp up is in the milliseconds. What you are seeing is that the screen is updated four times per second with the average values from the past quarter second. So if you start firing half-way through that quarter second, the average will be between 0 (not firing) and your wattage, and that screen update will be at a midpoint. Take a look at Power in the Device Monitor to see what I mean. [/QUOTE] EDIT : Notice the date of his post is 10/29/2015 - quite a while before any of the fw updates you are referring to.

I can verify this behavior has occurred on every fw revision I have used since 08/2015. As I said before this is not a defect/shortcoming/bug or problem. Several people here have given in-depth technical explanations of the display behavior that is described in this thread. @Cloudchaser89 - I thought you already verified that your device is outputting the full requested voltage from the instant you are pressing the fire button by using escribe?

VapingBad gave the best (and most direct) answer already: So for a split second you are seeing the display show you the average of "0" (because the device was not firing) and the power that is just starting to be applied. No amount of updating/downgrading of the fw or hard/soft reboots will change the display behavior you are seeing. It is normal and nothing to worry about or try to "fix"

I thought the video was an example of "the problem"

I agree completely, mactavish. Instead I am using board temp instead of room temp because, like you said, lack of a better option.

You could always use the rba deck that comes with the tfv8 and your choice of tc wire.

Take it with a grain of salt 3D. Usually those who resort to immature conversational tactics do so because of a lack of meaningful content. Its not worth your time to "feed the trolls". I will agree with vapingbad - the only time I have had inconsistent ? readings was due to a cold solder joint on the 510 output from the board. PS - I have been using rtas since 2011 (gg iAtty) so I can appreciate it doesn't take a time machine to have been twisting coils for years.

I have experienced this on the 3d printed case I first used. It was a clearance issue causing the fire button to constantly be pushed in. So just chain vaping and taking two drags in a row caused the board to go into "locked" mode sometimes even happening mid-hit. I fixed it by lightly sanding the back of the buttons. This should not be the cause in a manufactured box but I thought I should share my experience anyways. Can you try loosening the board mount screws slightly? Just as a check to see if this is a clearance issue.

I got my blue silo-1300 case about a week ago. It's very nice overall. Only the included black aluminum buttons work without modification. I really like the modcrate 510 - seems just as robust as the evolv unit but the circlip is bigger making it easier to work-with. Differences from the silo-950: board mounting studs a little shorter 510 connector hole not as deep recessed groove where halves meet is much narrower

Put mine together today. I swapped over the board from a 3d printed reference case so the screen was already mounted and secured in the proper place. I went from a vt 510 to the evolv 510. The buttons didn't require any adjustments and fit without rattling, NICE! The only massaging required was on the sidewalls, which were about 0.5 mm too thick on both sides, to allow the board to sit down on the mounts. After that everything went smoothly. The overall fit and finish is awesome and I am very pleased. Thanks ModCrate! Here is a pic of the finished product (along side some other evolv-powered mods):