giz_60 Posted February 25, 2017 Report Share Posted February 25, 2017 These pics are of one of my 75's... AA still works properly with a shorting plug...different atty... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwcraig1 Posted February 25, 2017 Report Share Posted February 25, 2017 Call me skeptical, I tried on my SMY SDNA75 which tests out to 0.002 ohm with tool. With an atty with 0.07 resistance it came out to 0.002 -0.003 with above method. But with an atty with a higher resistance (0.58 ohms) I got something around 0.008 ohms.Of coarse there's always the possibility that I didn't do it correctly....these things happen here on occasion (many) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giz_60 Posted February 25, 2017 Report Share Posted February 25, 2017 dwcraig1 said:Call me skeptical, I tried on my SMY SDNA75 which tests out to 0.002 ohm with tool. With an atty with 0.07 resistance it came out to 0.002 -0.003 with above method. But with an atty with a higher resistance (0.58 ohms) I got something around 0.008 ohms.Of coarse there's always the possibility that I didn't do it correctly....these things happen here on occasion (many)Tried that here too....different atty, same mod...Edit: atty & coil are brand new Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwcraig1 Posted February 25, 2017 Report Share Posted February 25, 2017 My first atty (Velocity) is a good candidate for checking but my 2nd one was a Merlin. The Merlin very well may have needed a good cleaning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catharsis70 Posted February 26, 2017 Report Share Posted February 26, 2017 Went with the giz method. Everything very clean. Brand new tank base and coil. Real resistance triple checked (two devices and a meter) for same or within reason same resistance all three. I could not get raw ohms to remain stable. Tightening, loosening. Tightened down more than my comfort level. Moving within 0.001 up and down from most stable number. Got a lock for about 10 seconds and used that numbrer. Final number 0.003 which seems to be a common range for 250 devices. Shave a hair off for safety margin inputting 0.00285. Vaping in temp mode beautifuly now even on SS nothch coils. Seems liks it reads cold ohms a hair low so I may fiddle the mod resistance input a bit to get it closer but otherwise its like a different mod. Thanks for the tip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catharsis70 Posted February 26, 2017 Report Share Posted February 26, 2017 Curious.... Does this need to be carried out for each profile/wire type or it global? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giz_60 Posted February 26, 2017 Report Share Posted February 26, 2017 Catharsis70 said:Went with the giz method. Everything very clean. Brand new tank base and coil. Real resistance triple checked (two devices and a meter) for same or within reason same resistance all three. I could not get raw ohms to remain stable. Tightening, loosening. Tightened down more than my comfort level. Moving within 0.001 up and down from most stable number. Got a lock for about 10 seconds and used that numbrer. Final number 0.003 which seems to be a common range for 250 devices. Shave a hair off for safety margin inputting 0.00285. Vaping in temp mode beautifuly now even on SS nothch coils. Seems liks it reads cold ohms a hair low so I may fiddle the mod resistance input a bit to get it closer but otherwise its like a different mod. Thanks for the tipWhat type of atomizer? You will also need to remember, that any device, whether it be another mod or meter, that you are using to measure resistance, is going to have a slight amount of internal resistance...just the nature of the beast. The meter I use most often has about .oo2? resistance, so the resistance is going to read slightly lower on the DNA. Also, when tapping the fire button to set the cold ohms, if you are using a TC wire, you are going to raise the ohms slightly due to a small amount of heat being produced. I turned everything as low as it can go...Temp,Power,all pre-heat settings as low as possible Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giz_60 Posted February 26, 2017 Report Share Posted February 26, 2017 Catharsis70 said:Curious.... Does this need to be carried out for each profile/wire type or it global?This is a global setting...just measuring the internal resistance of the mod... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catharsis70 Posted February 27, 2017 Report Share Posted February 27, 2017 I used a 25mm Supertank base and stock 0.2 kanthal coil. I know my atomizer meter is of by 0.012 as read by a buddys fluke meter. Dont know about the base and theres no accounting that an 0.2 prebuilt coil is gonna come in exact. I get that. Thats why I used a few ways to check and kind went with an average. I did set everything to minimum in power mode to set cold resistance. One thing I didnt think to ask is does the mod need to be connected to escribe when I pulse for cold reading or does it not make a difference? Also is it normal for the raw to fluctuate with the atty screwed down as tight as possible? Maybe I need to use something with a slightly longer 510 connector? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giz_60 Posted February 27, 2017 Report Share Posted February 27, 2017 Doesn't have to be hook up to Escribe to set cold ohms...the resistance should be fairly stable if everything on the build is stable. Does that base have a floating pin? Does the coil come into direct contact with the devices 510 pin or transfer resistance through the base? Stock coils can be iffy at times as well... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catharsis70 Posted February 27, 2017 Report Share Posted February 27, 2017 Yes the base has a floater between the mod 510 and contact with the coil. I probably should have thought about that. I can remedy and upward movement Im pretty sure. So the mods positive 510 pin needs to be totally bottomed out or just unable to shift in position? Thanks for all the uber fast responses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giz_60 Posted February 27, 2017 Report Share Posted February 27, 2017 Most attys with floating 510 pins are notorious for having a fluctuating resistance issue. The mods 510 pin doesn't need to be bottomed out, there just needs to be a good stable connection between the mod & the coil....at least for a good TC vaping experience...but the floating pin is most likely where your resistance fluctuation is coming from... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catharsis70 Posted February 27, 2017 Report Share Posted February 27, 2017 I put s couple pieces of very very small diameter plastic rods inside the insulator for the atty 510 pin and then replaced the pin. Very hard to get in and move. Then I pushed the base pin side down on the counter top with a good amount of force to make sure it was solid against the coil contact. No more fluctuation. Thanks yet again. Now im questioning using these tanks for TC. Maybe I could find parts and diy stationary pins for them. I like the Supertanks a lot but havs from time to time had TC issues and no atomizer warnings. Probably all the floating pin then. Or maybe a stronger spring in the mods 510. Id just do the plastic trick but I think with heat and contract/expand events the pins pressure against the positive wire inside the middle of the insulator may become problematic. I always felt the tanks 510 pin was just a lil shorter than it needed to be too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
txmonkey214 Posted February 28, 2017 Report Share Posted February 28, 2017 I bought the copper 510 plug to set my internal resistance. It was off, like the DNA75 posted by Giz-60. Mine read .006, for fleeting moment. The rest of the time, it was at .007-.008. I tried .006. Ohms readings were way off. The mod ran too hot, and too cold. TC accuracy? It was a thing of the past. It caused me nothing but problems. There needs to be some effort on every manufacturer's part to get the setting right, coming out the doors. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catharsis70 Posted April 15, 2017 Report Share Posted April 15, 2017 Catharsis70 said:I put s couple pieces of very very small diameter plastic rods inside the insulator for the atty 510 pin and then replaced the pin. Very hard to get in and move. Then I pushed the base pin side down on the counter top with a good amount of force to make sure it was solid against the coil contact. No more fluctuation. Thanks yet again. Now im questioning using these tanks for TC. Maybe I could find parts and diy stationary pins for them. I like the Supertanks a lot but havs from time to time had TC issues and no atomizer warnings. Probably all the floating pin then. Or maybe a stronger spring in the mods 510. Id just do the plastic trick but I think with heat and contract/expand events the pins pressure against the positive wire inside the middle of the insulator may become problematic. I always felt the tanks 510 pin was just a lil shorter than it needed to be too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catharsis70 Posted April 15, 2017 Report Share Posted April 15, 2017 Ok so the newer Supertanks come with a tiny bit longer 510 pin. Also these tanks sometimes arent fully pressed together .... the base that is....increasing the distance between contact points. These two corrections and its steady on resistance. No more fluctuations taking readings. I was on the right track trying to bring the coil pin down and stiffen the 510 pin. close the distance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giz_60 Posted April 15, 2017 Report Share Posted April 15, 2017 Catharsis70 said:Ok so the newer Supertanks come with a tiny bit longer 510 pin. Also these tanks sometimes arent fully pressed together .... the base that is....increasing the distance between contact points. These two corrections and its steady on resistance. No more fluctuations taking readings. I was on the right track trying to bring the coil pin down and stiffen the 510 pin. close the distance.You were absolutely on the right track, floating pins on atty's have been causing quite a few folks problems lately...good to hear they have addressed the issue... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth vapes Posted April 24, 2017 Report Share Posted April 24, 2017 Mod resistance should be set from factory.....or i mean to say Mods from lost vape should be tuned..each one of them and then stated in the manual say that this very mod has been well tuned...that way people like us don't have to guess weather it's off or on should i play with it? or not?.....I also hate looking at my screen and it shows me coil of .21...when i know it's a .20..that right there fks me off...and yet i should'nt change it cause one might fk up the TC on the thing...either way your fked Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth vapes Posted April 24, 2017 Report Share Posted April 24, 2017 Also would love to see the information stay on screen untill the next fire...such as the volts and amps...but no!..you have to hold fire button down to get a jumping volts and amps...even joyetech and others give you 1 second to read that fire value before it disapears 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgarren Posted April 29, 2017 Report Share Posted April 29, 2017 A copper shorting pin, (510 threaded with a little bulge on top to unscrew/screw it in) and observing resistance change while fully compressed, and what happens as you extrude it. A good reading can be taken as the shorting pin is inserted fully, you just want to make sure it doesn't vary too much while doing so. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eziotroito Posted June 10, 2017 Report Share Posted June 10, 2017 Il 25/2/2017 in 12:14 , dwcraig1 ha scritto: Well here is what's going on, with all the 250 boards and all the 200 boards with 1.2 SP? software Atomizer Analyzer will not read below 0.007 ohms. So if it displays down to .007 then throws up a "?" it's .007 ohms or less. On the earlier firmware it wouldn't read below 0.002 ohms. Could you please tell me what firmware can let us read below .007 till .002? I have DNA 250, escribe 2.0 sp3 and still not reading under .008! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayneo Posted June 10, 2017 Report Share Posted June 10, 2017 (edited) Sorry pal, for now you gotta follow the 'giz' method. FOR ME, the last working version for the 2xx series boards was late February 2016. Once 1.2 SP3 was released I started getting the ? PS, the 250 did not work for me (USB drivers) with that older version. Edited June 10, 2017 by Wayneo Added 2016 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayneo Posted June 10, 2017 Report Share Posted June 10, 2017 I'm not sure if it is in firmware or software, because the OG 75 still works with AA. If they could identify their code differences, and let us know if it's hardware, firmware, or software A few years ago (Mac/UNIX guy here) I actually patched and rebuilt my kernel for two different USB to serial drivers, one being the Prolific PL2303 to allow older devices to run on current software. IIRC all I had to do was enter/edit the ID. This way we could at least use it on our 250s Somehow it should be as simple on the Windows side to edit in these new device IDs, and recompile the February executable ......... as an ugly but functional workaround, or fix Atomizer analyzer. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sergey Posted November 4, 2017 Report Share Posted November 4, 2017 Hello friends, bought finder 250, installed escribe and in the tab mod is the resistance of the mod 0, maybe someone knows the real resistance finder 250? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayneo Posted November 4, 2017 Report Share Posted November 4, 2017 @Sergey giz_60 alternative mod resistance calculation Read this 1 comment by giz https://goo.gl/m8zrFH Then Wire picture (March 10 post) https://goo.gl/3BSsMV Takes a few minutes, and it will be correct for YOUR mod. IMHO, acceptable values would be in the .002-.009 range. Note the double zeroes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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