Catharsis70

Giz any chance you have a csv file for triple sony vct5 for the vt250?

Ok so the newer Supertanks come with a tiny bit longer 510 pin. Also these tanks sometimes arent fully pressed together .... the base that is....increasing the distance between contact points. These two corrections and its steady on resistance. No more fluctuations taking readings. I was on the right track trying to bring the coil pin down and stiffen the 510 pin. close the distance.

bringin this one back. i have two Hcigar vt250's ones screen is crisp white one has a blue/green tint. bought from different vendors months apart. how do you get a white lit screen for sure? i like the crisp white enough to replace the other screen.

I put s couple pieces of very very small diameter plastic rods inside the insulator for the atty 510 pin and then replaced the pin. Very hard to get in and move. Then I pushed the base pin side down on the counter top with a good amount of force to make sure it was solid against the coil contact. No more fluctuation. Thanks yet again. Now im questioning using these tanks for TC. Maybe I could find parts and diy stationary pins for them. I like the Supertanks a lot but havs from time to time had TC issues and no atomizer warnings. Probably all the floating pin then. Or maybe a stronger spring in the mods 510. Id just do the plastic trick but I think with heat and contract/expand events the pins pressure against the positive wire inside the middle of the insulator may become problematic. I always felt the tanks 510 pin was just a lil shorter than it needed to be too.

Yes the base has a floater between the mod 510 and contact with the coil. I probably should have thought about that. I can remedy and upward movement Im pretty sure. So the mods positive 510 pin needs to be totally bottomed out or just unable to shift in position? Thanks for all the uber fast responses.

I used a 25mm Supertank base and stock 0.2 kanthal coil. I know my atomizer meter is of by 0.012 as read by a buddys fluke meter. Dont know about the base and theres no accounting that an 0.2 prebuilt coil is gonna come in exact. I get that. Thats why I used a few ways to check and kind went with an average. I did set everything to minimum in power mode to set cold resistance. One thing I didnt think to ask is does the mod need to be connected to escribe when I pulse for cold reading or does it not make a difference? Also is it normal for the raw to fluctuate with the atty screwed down as tight as possible? Maybe I need to use something with a slightly longer 510 connector?

Curious.... Does this need to be carried out for each profile/wire type or it global?

Went with the giz method. Everything very clean. Brand new tank base and coil. Real resistance triple checked (two devices and a meter) for same or within reason same resistance all three. I could not get raw ohms to remain stable. Tightening, loosening. Tightened down more than my comfort level. Moving within 0.001 up and down from most stable number. Got a lock for about 10 seconds and used that numbrer. Final number 0.003 which seems to be a common range for 250 devices. Shave a hair off for safety margin inputting 0.00285. Vaping in temp mode beautifuly now even on SS nothch coils. Seems liks it reads cold ohms a hair low so I may fiddle the mod resistance input a bit to get it closer but otherwise its like a different mod. Thanks for the tip

Would shorting a premade tank coil (super tank mini) by gutting it and replacing the wire insulator with a metal tube that fits tightly an accepts the coils 510 post work? I mean taking that assembly and using the tanks base to connect to the mod 510. Would that get me a lower resistance short? Or does the impedance of the shorted "tool" not matter that much? With the inde duo deck deal i get very unstable reading while tightening it into the 510. Bottomed out I get ? (0) backed off just a hair I get a stable 0.008 in atomizer analyzer. But we want a bottomed out full connection right? With that I get zero but zero cant be right the mod has to have SOME resistance doesnt it? And if the zero reading is correct do I set the mod at 0 or is there a default figure to try? At zero from the factory TC is all over the place. Set to 0.008 coils read low and the vape is very weak. Thanks for the reply. Im learning here, kinda read it and try it. Basic understanding of impedance and its affect in power from working with speakers and amplifiers. It would be nice to have stable consistent performance from my mod and a little less fiddling to get a nice Vape. Thanks again!

Bringing this back up hope nobody minds. Ive made a "dead short rda deck to test mod resistance. I used a Jaybo inde duo. I removed the topside positive post to 510 screw insulator so the positive "T" post is screwed directly against the rda body. I also bent the both sides of the "T" downward so they are in direct contact with the negatives that of course are part of the deck body. Should be direct short for sure. Thing is on my ohm checker it reads 0.04ohm. should a dead short show any resistance to the meter? If that is normal is there anything I need to subtract from what atty analyzer reads? Im doing this to test on a vt250 (dna250) device it that makes any difference. Thanks in advance for any insight. Im a new join and just poking around the vast majority here knows way more than I do lol.