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soulseek said:



Finally they're doing that! However, are they putting the DNA60 in the same case as the DNA200? In that case, it would be worth it just making a smaller one on your own.



The reference mod enclosure is pretty tiny. What enclosure were you thinking of using. I would imagine they would mill the reference enclosure to accept the dna60 and use the on board buttons. And maybe make it a little shorter? Although a 900mah lipo is about as tall as a 18650 in a sled so.......

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loving this dna60, really allows for building a tiny mod with a lot of power and the latest greatest temperature control algorithms, very smooth with ss316  :)







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My goal with this board is to retrofit my Lost Vape Esquare and Epetite and also my Vaporflask V2.1. I love the form factor of all of those mods but i can't live without the temp control of the 200. Now i will have the best of both worlds thanks to Evolv. I sure hope i can make it work in the flask. Has anybody else looked into doing the DNA60 in a Vaporflask? If so I've got some questions.

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turbocad6 said:

loving this dna60, really allows for building a tiny mod with a lot of power and the latest greatest temperature control algorithms, very smooth with ss316  :)









Thats awesome!

:thumb:

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turbocad6 said:

thanks brother, guess it's not so obvious in those pics, but that's also a bottom feeder with a full 8.5ml bottle on board :)





I did see that. Nice you were able to make it so small. Where are the buttons at? I see where the fire button is but what about the others?

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I'm curious; could someone please help me out with connecting another USB board for data and charging all in one? I see the dual TP4056 drawing, but I'm not looking to go 2 amp, just need to know what charging board would allow me to substitute for Evolv's

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ChunkyButt200 said:

here's how i planned it frogmod, (disregard question mark, i think i have it sorted out) i could be wrong tho. i've seen VCC is also referred to as VBUS so......

dna_2_amp_routing.png 
the one marked "VCC" on the usb breakout is the vbus and i gotta add a 10k inline to 15. i think you leave "ID" open/not connected to anything. i would connect data + and - accordingly. and splice a second wire with a resistor into the +5v that goes to my 2 amp charging board. and i think i also have to splice the usb gnd to 12. i will try and get instructions on exactly what goes where..... 

as far as screen placement it's going to be exactly like the dna 40 large screen. the zif connector is in the same spot as the 40's.

I'm curious; could someone please help me out with connecting another USB board for data and charging all in one? I see the dual TP4056 drawing, but I'm not looking to go 2 amp, just need to know what charging board would allow me to substitute for Evolv's

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grouch said:

looking for pinouts for dna60 charging board, anyone help?



The pinouts on the main board are listed here so it should coincide with the charger board.

connnections.png

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Levivapes said:

I have a vaporshark rdna 40, would this board fit?

welcome to the forum levivapes. i plan on doing the same with my VS RDNA 40 mod. the board will fit inside with little to no modifications. however, There is one main concern that presents itself when transplanting the 60 into the rdna. the 60 is escribe capable, the 40 is not. if you want to be able to use escribe, you would need to connect the data pins of the 60 board "somehow" to existing female micro usb socket that is mounted on the VS daughter board. the daughter board has all of the regulatory buttons on it, the 2 amp charger, reverse battery buzzer and finally the QI wireless charging circuit. so it is doable but requires some rerouting and adding some charging and data lines. another option is to set the board up with all the profiles etc. that you want, before you install the board into the mod. then leave the 60's data pin outs open (not connected). the mod won't be able to connect to escribe but will be already set up for any wires or profiles etc. this is my least favorite option (i will not do this option, i use escribe too much not to have it) but would be the easiest way.

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ChunkyButt200 said:

welcome to the forum levivapes. i plan on doing the same with my VS RDNA 40 mod. the board will fit inside with little to no modifications. however, There is one main concern that presents itself when transplanting the 60 into the rdna. the 60 is escribe capable, the 40 is not. if you want to be able to use escribe, you would need to connect the data pins of the 60 board "somehow" to existing female micro usb socket that is mounted on the VS daughter board. the daughter board has all of the regulatory buttons on it, the 2 amp charger, reverse battery buzzer and finally the QI wireless charging circuit. so it is doable but requires some rerouting and adding some charging and data lines. another option is to set the board up with all the profiles etc. that you want, before you install the board into the mod. then leave the 60's data pin outs open (not connected). the mod won't be able to connect to escribe but will be already set up for any wires or profiles etc. this is my least favorite option (i will not do this option, i use escribe too much not to have it) but would be the easiest way.

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Thanks for the info, protovapor said someth8ng about a daughter board being an issue, could I just swap it out too? I got the vs for free because the wattage and temp just go down for no reason. No stuck buttons, must be a board issue, since I figure anything I do to make it work is worth it.

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Levivapes said:

Thanks for the info, protovapor said someth8ng about a daughter board being an issue, could I just swap it out too? I got the vs for free because the wattage and temp just go down for no reason. No stuck buttons, must be a board issue, since I figure anything I do to make it work is worth it.

the problem with ditching the daughter board is the regulatory buttons are soldered onto it (FIRE, UP and DOWN buttons). the daughter board runs from the bottom of the mod to the top with the dna board soldered to it around the middle. since it's already broken, take it apart and you'll see what i'm talking about. no interest in fixing the existing dnA 40 that's already inside? if you know for sure none of the buttons are stuck, the next likely suspect is flux residue shorting the dna 40 board external button pinouts. it happened to a dna 40 of mine. it had the symptom of a stuck DOWN button (flashing between 1 watt and the serial #)but the actual button was in perfect working order. i had to clean/scrape away the flux residue between the 2 DOWN button pinouts, works fine now.

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ChunkyButt200 said:

the problem with ditching the daughter board is the regulatory buttons are soldered onto it (FIRE, UP and DOWN buttons). the daughter board runs from the bottom of the mod to the top with the dna board soldered to it around the middle. since it's already broken, take it apart and you'll see what i'm talking about. no interest in fixing the existing dnA 40 that's already inside? if you know for sure none of the buttons are stuck, the next likely suspect is flux residue shorting the dna 40 board external button pinouts. it happened to a dna 40 of mine. it had the symptom of a stuck DOWN button (flashing between 1 watt and the serial #)but the actual button was in perfect working order. i had to clean/scrape away the flux residue between the 2 DOWN button pinouts, works fine now.

I actually found someone local with a rdna 40 for 40 bucks... so it's gonna be cheaper than a new board. I'm gonna go ahead and cerakote the body for mine and just put those guts in mine

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Just FYI - The USB Satellite board is the exact same width as the 60 (or 40 with the rails snipped off).  I transplanted one already and it's running great.  On this one, for example, I had to grind out the usb area to fit the USB in the case.  So the USB size is definitely worth noting.  

DNA60.jpg 
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Rob_H said:



I did see that. Nice you were able to make it so small. Where are the buttons at? I see where the fire button is but what about the others?



sorry just noticed this... I actually didn't mount any up/down buttons in that prototype, I usually just set it and forget it so I didn't miss them all that much for testing, but I do have space to mount them either internal or external in that design 

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