John

If you plug it into a PC near the end of charge, what does it show for voltage and current? Is it charging to 100% and then slowly falling from there, or is it never getting to 100% And, just so we're not chasing our tails, you have the battery set to "Maximize Puffs" rather than "Maximize Recharges" correct? Because Maximize Recharges shouldn't get to 100%

Oh. Well, if you change the battery capacity on the fly you'll confuse the poor thing. Give it a charge and discharge cycle to sort itself out, and see if it still is doing it.

Hi George, I was away for the past two days and haven't gotten through my PMs yet. We should be able to ship you a beta tomorrow if you decide to go that route. Thanks John

Well, no, not unless you area having problems with the resistance readings shifting or climbing. Really it is only pictures of devices having problems that are exciting to me. Last I hears Hana has done 450 of them, and as this thread isn't 450 posts long, my hope is that most are working swimmingly.

It should have started charging again if it was still connected to USB. Do you have some sort of unusual battery curve?

I'm not saying it is a bad idea. We always tell people to ask for exactly what they want, because sometimes things they think will be hard and expensive are actually easier or cheaper than they expect. And sometimes something they think will be easy or cheap has some hidden technical snag that makes it not so. That unfortunately is the case here.

Sign of an understanding company. I've murdered my share of electronics over the years! Not even always intentionally.

Sorry, I just got back from being out two days (Yesterday was my anniversary) The solder joints that seems to just stick out of the connector, can someone get me a picture? It sounds like a cold joint, or not pre-tinning the wire, or no flux. That could cause a bad connection, and the great downfall of all TCR based temperature controlled mods is bad connections. Talking to Hana, it seems like they're improving the build with every batch, so that's promising unless you end up with one from an early batch that's acting up. And I can trade dead ones for reference designs like I offered in another thread. Working my way through the forums now, then I'll take care of the PMs. For the guy who is getting unsteady cell readings, can you measure the cells directly with a multimeter to see if it is the pack, the board or the connections? Might be worth re-seating the main battery connector too in case it just melted out of making good contact due to heat.

I will have you know that I got a haircut during my absence. Now it is "Mildly Conservative Christian Jesus" length rather than the previous "Renaissance Jesus" length.

Yeah, start a support ticket on our site and we'll get it exchanged for you. Sorry for the slow reply.

Most likely just different lots with different batches of phosphors. They're all supposed to be white, and they always look bluer in pictures than they look to me in real life, even when I take the pictures.

Yeah we think the tabs inside tabs with profiles is where the bug came up. Do you have any versions with profiles working for you?

Yeah, except the "my DNA 200 never turns off" helpdesk emails...

Nope, it takes four to six hours to get through the whole cycle. Maybe overkill, but we figure people only need to do it once per mod design. We just let it run overnight.

I'd use a high temperature hot melt (they make ones specifically for electronics which are awesome, but for a one off hobby build nobody will kick you out of electronics heaven for craft store hot melt) or epoxy. Epoxy has a somewhat higher max working temperature than cyanoacrylate, and is more shock resistant. But in a pinch, CA is a lot better than just letting the pad tear off.

Here, what I do is tin the wire, add additional solder to the pad, press the wire onto the pad gently and reflow the whole assembly. Goes quickly and doesn't produce a cold joint. But then again, I use an 80 watt temperature controlled solder station. If you have an 8 watt radio shack iron... well... http://www.all-spec.com/products/FX-888D.html The hakkos are the best bang for the buck among real solder stations. They're not what we use here, but the replacement heater elements for our irons cost more than the whole hakko station.

If you booger up one board swapping buttons around, we'll be nice and replace it. If you start making a habit of it, then we may get less understanding.

Partially it will depend on your settings. If you run it at something like 10 watts in battery analyzer, you will get more capacity than if you run it at 200, because some energy will be lost as heat in the battery and wires. It is a good idea to have the battery somewhat broken in before running battery analyzer. My most recent tests with the Fullymax have been in the 9.3 neighborhood, at a nice representative 60 watts of output power.

With only the tap connected, the board is grounding through the lowest balance resistor. So the lowest cell will read wrong. Without the main power leads connected, it is dumping the energy from the charger into the overvoltage protection diode, not the battery. The battery never even sees the charge current. So you're heating the board up for no gain. Don't do that.

Would these notes save on the computer or on the DNA itself?

That's a great idea, actually. We are happy to replace things like that for free through the support system, but I wouldn't mind having extras available through the website.

With a short, a tick isn't that surprising. That's a lot of di/dt

Laguz75, yes, but your best bet is to set the mod or board up with a power resistor for the output and just run battery analyzer. It will make a perfect curve and give you the measured capacity. We like 50 watts here as the firing power.

You can get pretty close. You're trying to derive a steady state offset (degrees above ambient when the charger is on, but there's no charge current) and then the temperature rise per amp. If you know the room temperature, the first one is just what the device cooled to before it started. The second you can get from the steady state values at the three test charge rates. The time constants are a little trickier, but you could do a regression in excel to get them. Or just figure out how long it took to rise to 63% of the final steady state value.

Speed4mee, you can take a screenshot on the Screens tab.