John

I believe we played with the thermal control loop a little to better handle high thermal mass coils and titanium. We also made it react faster. Glad it is an improvement.

Basilray, which early version does work? If you could find the last version that works and the first version that doesn't, we can figure out what we added in that version that is not working. At least gives us a place to start looking.

I don't know if it is related in this case but there are a lot of charge only micro usb cables that don't actually have data wires. Hana are using the USB port to load the newest firmware and perform final tests on the devices, so while the screen issues with the Hana v200 are something we are working to figure out, the USB ports will have all been tested at least twice before they get to you, so I would suspect the cable first for usb issues. And I am sure Hana can fix whatever is up with the screens.

That sounds like the fuse or the positive battery connection. Can we get a picture of the insides of the device?

But what good is a stealth mode that wakes your wife?

Just set your firing brightness to 0. This can be done already with the right combination of screen settings.

What are the transistors for? The fire button of the 200 goes straight to positive battery voltage (9-12V) and is active high, you can tap power straight off it (with an appropriate limit resistor) if you want. Or if you are feeling especially adventurous, there are pads around the onboard fire button for LEDs, but that is a difficult solder job.

That's a lot! I remember when I honeymooned in Tasmania three years ago and it was like $1.10 US to buy an Aussie dollar. If you PMed me a shipping address, I might see if I can scare something up for you. No promises.

So people doing clean windows 10 installs don't have issues, but upgrade installs do? We can find that. Gotta be a dependency thing. Basilray is your issue also related to device monitor and atomizer analyzer?

Hope there isn't a problem with one or the other, we keep about 50k pieces of the screen in stock at any given time and I do NOT want to have to have someone go through them all.

Off the top of my head, think there are about 350 Opuses out right now, so the mortality rate is still in the single digit percent. Still very concerning. Replacing the fuse isn't hard once the board is out of the case, though. You'd have to discuss that with Opus, though, I can't make them do or not do things.

Oh, and here I deleted what I said because they're not my 3d print designs and I didn't want to threadjack. http://www.mcmaster.com/#92470a018/=ya8yj3 Is what I would probably use.

You may have trouble fitting it, there isn't a ton of space in there. The Hana is even smaller than the reference case. I know if we ever go to production with complete reference cases we'll be using individual 2mm bullets.

Yeah, I'm not happy about their use of a JST connector for main power input (Yes, I know the pack comes with it) but the 510 connector should be nice and beefy. Otherwise it is pretty similar to the reference design except for round buttons except for square. And they're gluing the screen in.

Would it be easy to trade out for another so I can look at that one here and see what is going on with it? If so, PM me your address.

No problem, always happy when it was something simple.

Just to try it, try going to Escribe and then manually forcing a firmware update with Tools... Update Firmware...

Ah ha. Your voltage discharge curve for your battery is 100% crazy. It will charge to 4.2 volts, then once the current falls off it will set the charge to 100%, because it is done. With your battery curve, 4.2 volts corresponds to 18% battery, so when it powered back up, it said "hrm, dunno what happened, but clearly we're nowhere near 100% for this battery, so lets reset our estimate to the curve" and on your curve, 4.2V is 18% Where did you get that battery curve? It doesn't correspond to any battery chemistry I am familiar with.

Anything you want to answer instead of me gets us closer to more new and interesting products, so by all means!

That looks pretty normal to me. Maybe post your settings file? It isn't shorting to one cell or draining unusually, or you'd have imbalance. If the fire button was being held down or stuck then it would drain overnight, but otherwise it shouldn't. How big is your battery?

We've had some reports of the Hanas putting themselves in stealth mode, so we added something to Device monitor at the very bottom to show the buttons being pressed and the mode. Are you in Normal mode?

It probably is some sort of file dependency that got changed in the update. We'll dig into it over the next week or so as it matures and see what we can see.

Well, by end of day today we should be able to have EScribe tell you if the screen is physically connected. The first Hanas don't do anything to secure the cable, and it runs perilously close to the fire button, so it may be as simple as it pulled out of the connector.

We're digging into the screen driver today, there might be something interesting to find there. If you do a hard reboot from escribe, do you get the start screen?

Before too many people get big ideas about this, I should mention that this is a MASTERFUL soldering job xevape did here. That is coming from me, and I don't impress or praise easily. The old DNA buttons were pretty easy to remove. These are constructed differently and are hard to get off without causing board damage.