John

Nice! Protovapor were instrumental during the beta in pushing for certain features. Without them, we wouldn't have profiles on the 200 at all.

Titanium, for a similar resistance, has a larger diameter, so there is more thermal mass. That means with everything else being equal, it heats up and cools down more slowly and retains more heat. So if the control system is well tuned for the coil, you'll get less fluctuation. You shouldn't get much spiking with nickel if you have reasonable settings and airflow, either, though. Maybe post a side by side device monitor sccreenshots?

Temperature protected isn't an error, it just means that the DNA is reducing power to keep you from overshooting your temperature setpoint. You can turn the message off on the Themes tab in Escribe if it bothers you.

No, they're active low. It wouldn't change anything if you were driving the gate of an N channel Mosfet located across the fire button pins with 17 volts, but most arduinos don't have a 17 volt output. The source of your mosfet will be at battery voltage. Turning an N channel mosfet on requires the gate to be something like 5 volts higher, which is why you'd need 17 volts. But you can do it with a P channel FET

I'm not sure where you'd get one other than Hana. That connector is based off of a significantly older version of the design we went to production with, so we aren't making it here.

Case analyzer won't make that much of a difference. what it prevents is small changes - a few percent- in refinement if you are charging.

Well, you could use the platform-agnostic files, like the .stl or the .iges...

The IGES doesn't get you where you need to be? Solidworks won't let you do a save as older version, how else would they force people to buy upgrades?

Temp protected message means it is throttling the wattage to keep the temperature under control. It isn't an error message. That said, you can turn it off. Go into Escribe, on the Theme tab, next to the Temperature Protected message, you can change it to "Don't show"

I sure don't see anything that would prevent charging. If you have the battery and the taps disconnected and plug into USB, does the screen come on at full brightness? That also uses the charger circuit to do. If your charger isn't working in that situation the screen will be extremely dim.

It shouldn't matter either way.

Oh. Yeah. Don't do that. You can make it put out 250 watts, easy, from a fully charged battery. It won't hurt the board as such, but you'll basically be pin-balling between various protective features, so the vape won't be any good.

Nope, that's due to the input capacitance. Happens just the same whether the board is on or off. Or even if you just hook a pack directly to a capacitor.

Can you post a pic of what's going on under the screen? You clearly have USB data and voltage, and the charge current sensor is reporting something, so it isn't a problem with the USB port. Your cells are reading right, so it has to be something related to the actual charge circuitry. Which is under where the screen lives.

That will work on the up and down buttons. Fire is trickier, because it is active high, and at battery voltage. You'd need a P channel mosfet and a level shifter. But yeah, there's no reason you can have them driven by an arduino. On the other hand, if you used something with host USB port like a raspberry pi, you could drive it over the USB port.

It is entirely possible that the weakest cell of your 1000mah batteries are actually closer to 960 and 990 mah respectively. That would be well within the normal variation for cells. Try turning the watt hours down to 11.0 and see if you get the 99% one up to 100%

Hrm. It does turn off the charging circuitry when it fills up, and only turns back on when it has fallen a certain amount. I could see adding a feature to turn the charging screen off when it finishes the charge. That might be useful as an indicator anyway.

Can you post your settings file or battery curve?

It means it is failing a self-check and is out of calibration, so the wattage settings and temperature settings aren't correct anymore. Start an RMA and we'll swap you for a new one.

Jakek, Brandon asked that we start handling these through the standard Evolv help desk, so that we can keep track of who got what. http://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add If you don't get a response within a day or so post back here and I'll go knock some heads. Thanks John

Mike there are about 450 Hanas in customer hands at last count, so I'd guess most of them are working okay. Hana assures us that every time they make a batch they're taking the feedback from the previous batches and making improvements, so I'd imagine they have the screen cable issue handled by now.

It will work in the cold even if you don't lock ohms: the cold resistance is temperature compensated. But yes, it will work if you lock ohms as well. It will also operate on Kanthal fine in the cold. With the obvious caveats that if your juice freezes it won't work well, but that's a separate issue.

Were you trying to update the firmware? If a firmware update fails, you can re-do it manually in Escribe by going to Tools... Update Firmware and then browsing for the firmware file you want to load on. If it fails a firmware update it won't connect automatically, but it will still respond. So don't panic quite yet.

A stuck battery wouldn't make it read too low... bad connections should always be too much resistance. Is there maybe a stray wire from the positive output lead that didn't make it into the center pin's solder cup and is periodically shorting to other things?

Can't argue with you there!