John

That's a new one. What version of Windows?

Sure... John: Hey John get off your ass and get those cases into production. John: grumble grumble slave driver grumble grumble. Worst boss ever. John: well it is your fault for putting so many features in it that have to be machined with tiny endmill or engraved. John: well it is your fault for only having six CNC machines. Really we are waiting on gold plating for the center pin and anodize.

What are the production dates for the ones not reading a cell? Can we get a picture of the front and back of the boards in question near the tap and USB.

The resolution is pretty equivalent from 0.05 to 1 ohm.

Brandon and I ARE Evolv.. It isn't going to cause a fire, but it isn't going to hold up well at high powers. I would plan on replacing it once it starts acting up of you run above about 80 watts.

It works quite well at 0.5 unless you need or want 200 watts

Okay, then it isn't talking to the screen at all. Could be the screen, but more likely the cable or connection.

For max power the sweet spot is about 0.06 to .2 temperature controlled.

So ever 0.6 seconds the number increases by 1?

With the new firmware, if you turn on debug options (7 clicks on our logo in the about box) does it show an increasing number of screen timeouts?

Bob you are officially the first to say they need more power. Do you have a measured mod resistance? Getting that right can get you a bit more oomph out of the board. What is your coil resistance, and are you running temperature protected?

KTM can you swap the screen for another and see if it is screen related or board related? I think we sent you another board, but I don't know if you've gotten it yet.

The newer firmwares should have accurate timing. I don't remember if 7/16 did offhand. We're working on making the screen repaint code more robust if it bumps or wiggles this evening, I will be interested to see if that helps things.

Were these DIY mods or commercial ones? Anything else for us to go on? Obviously we'd like to cross ship replacements so we can get yours back to see what happened, if you could contact the main Evolv help desk and set up a cross ship, that would be ideal.

We actually played with this! What we were thinking of doing is having a button press "light" the ecig, holding it at 120 degrees or so. Then look for the temperature drop when you draw on it. The only problem is it draws nontrivial power the whole time it is sitting in what I called the "smoulder" state and is uncomfortably warm. Preheat comes to temperature really quickly though, so we dropped this idea. We were mostly using it to come to temperature faster. Trying to do it off ambient temperature wouldn't be reliable, because if the air is 70 degrees and the mod is 70 degrees, you can pull air across it all day and not change the temperature. (well, you could set it up to cool with clever use of fluid mechanics, but you don't want to draw that hard)

Yup, we can do those.

We wouldn't charge for the repair or return shipping.

Well, how do you have the board attached and installed? There are lots of places on the board that the DNA 200 can short if things are too big/too small/misplaced.

Well, I think the technicality they're using is that there is 2850 mah worth of cells in there, they're just assembled into a series pack rather than a parallel pack. It isn't ideal, but I get why they're doing it. A 3x 950 pack will give you about the same runtime as a 1s 2850, because it is the same energy either way. Really they should just advertise the capacity in watt hours. That's why we do it that way on the device and in Escribe. Watt hours is correct and clear regardless of what kind of cells, how many, and in what configuration. It doesn't upset me as much as "6.5hp" shop vacs that plug into a standard 120v outlet and draw 14 amps, at least.

Well I tested leftovers from June 8 and June 11, and so far the fuses look correct and don't blow at too little current, so that's at least looking less likely.

Yes, a blown fuse will prevent it firing. We are looking into our records for production from that batch. If you are feeling feisty, you could short across the fuse on the board with a large wire and install a mini 25 amp automotive fuse in line with the battery if you have space in your device.

Correct. We are working on that today.

Also, if you could go to escribe, click the my DNA button and screenshot the production information, that could be helpful.

Precisely. Don't run it like that long term, but the questions are Is the fuse blown If so, did it blow preventing a larger problem, or is it itself the problem

Can you try jumping across the fuse with tweezers or a very fine wire and see if it comes back on? We have been doing batch testing of the fuses made on the same days as ones that have popped, and they seem fine so far, but I am starting wonder if we didn't just get a reel with some bad or mislabelled fuses in it. The fuses that are definitely 25 amps pop dramatically (the link burns away, leaving the fuse white), but some of the dead fuse opuses seem to just kinda bubble up. I don't have any hard evidence of it, and I do have hard some opuses with definite internal shorts, but it makes me wonder.