Jaquith

For whatever reason Evolv by default has the charging screen off 0%, I prefer to see what's going on than at a glance. I'm referring to screen brightness.

Then I should add vape it till she's fully drained just the first time.

The default charge is 4.2V×3 which is the same in the file. Personally I'd let it fully charge and before using it load the new values and see how it works. In the screen you can swap the Voltage for Battery Percentage... In my charge screen I have charging amperage, battery percentage and the last is a toss up between pack voltage and charge voltage. Also a charge screen of 50 %.

During charging USB supplies typically

Correct, assuming you're referring to the Battery Profile .. Load File, enter the other two values and Upload to device.

The Wh is only part of the equation, sort of like X + Y + Z but only having X. According to the OP of the following file: Wh = 11.09 Battery Profile (CSV) http://www.filedropper.com/hcigarvt200battery Cutoff (V) = 3.09

If the tank has an RBA with two post, then 4 x 1' of Kanthal like rabbit ears antenna. Otherwise, I saw this thread with an 11 Wh and 3.1V cutoff /topic/66238-topic/ you'll have to convert the .TXT to a .CSV file by importing into Excel. If it's a problem send me a PM and I'll convert it for you tomorrow. I'm on my phone .. hence the frequency of typos from autocorrect.

When a battery is 'rated' it's with some 0.5A discharge until the battery reaches its cutoff voltage. A DNA 200 should be tested with a 10A discharge and with stable power delivery. So premature cutoff combined with some inefficiency in the form of heat from higher Amperage draws. People get hung up with Rated, hook it up to a flashlight and I'm sure you'll get 1300 mAh. Yep, I sure would run the Battery Analyzer at 40W or whatever wattage you use on average. Considering the history, I would change the Charging screen to show Cell 1, Cell 2 and Cell 3 with the recharging screen to 50%. An unbalanced battery can cause all sorts of problems. So the first thing I'd do after recharging is to put a Mod and using the Monitor watch all cells. The Battery Analyzer takes a while so fun for the weekend, the pay off is having a Mod set up properly. Frankly, I'd also run the Case Analyzer which takes a really long time. Lastly, either solder an old Atty or find some tests that others have run for the Mod's Resistance. Good luck! :-)

Could never figure out if vt200s should be changed to 14.43wh or 11.1wh in escribe. You happen to know?[/QUOTE] 12.6V is the full voltage, 11.1V is the Nominal voltage. Your Wh, usable, is going to come 10-11 Wh. The Amperage draw lowers the Wh and so does the 3.1V early cutoff. Usable. Just in case anyone wants to argue that 10 Wh, Phil tested his to 9.9 Wh.

You'll probably need to run your own Battery Analyzer more than likely to be safe, the MXJO's are rewraps of AFAIK bin 2 LG HG2's, and IMO unless they're new and paired I'd strongly recommend getting a new set of 3 or 6 LG HG2's. Now if you're not going to use the balancer then you can probably use the posted LG HG2's or if they're older I'd edit the the battery profile CSV file to cutoff at 3.1V to avoid problems / damage if you're running >15A. The DNA 200 at the most draws 20A~23A from the batteries. However, if you are going to use the Balancer then I'd be leary if the batteries are older because the balancer can do so much if the cells get out of balance, and then I'd definitely run the Battery Analyzer. And guessing you'll probably disagree with my statements on your MXJO '3000 mAh 35A' batteries so I'd read this - https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/threads/mxjo-yellow-silver-35a-3000mah-18650-bench-test-results-only-a-15a-20a-battery-but-near-an-hg2.710690/

If I had to pick one DNA 200 Mod then I'd choose the Vapor Shark. It's small, properly set up out of the box, very comfortable, light and the only built-in 2A charging. I have a ton of DNA 200's. Now if you like uber high wattage builds and a little bulky then the Reuleaux DNA 200 Mod. The reason for 75W ... 200W limits are primarily due to the limits of the batteries. Sure you can get a 2,000-7,000 mAh 30C or higher C (high Amperage) LiPo or better LiFePO4 and frankly many do but they vape on unregulated Mods. To regulate it's a combination of higher voltage at higher amperage. After 20A~23A even the DNA 200 'pulses' through regulating voltage but in doing so through the DC-DC can provide 50A~55A. DC-DC https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/DC-to-DC_converter For unregulated Mods refer to Ohm's Law 250W requires 67A http://www.ohmslawcalculator.com/ohms-law-calculator Now the DNA 200 could in theory deliver 250W but in a very small resistance range, as it is now appx 0.08-0.40 Ohm in Kanthal mode is the window for 200W. Refer to the DNA 200 specs http://www.evolvapor.com/datasheet/dna200.pdf

I'm referring to the 510 to the positive post, the one in the dead center bottom of the deck .. not the post screws. But I found a different angle, it looks like the bottom 510 holds the post .. just make sure it and everything is tight. So Ejuice might have leaked down and is messing up the conductivity. I thought about getting that RDA, but I didn't so I can't speak firsthand. I do know most of the jumping in this case is caused by poor connections. Most RDA's don't have resistance jumping / jitter.

My fingers are crossed, and two thumbs up to your vape store! As mentioned, I agree full charge first with LiPo's.

As I mentioned there in the end I plan on ordering one, most of my go-to builds are Titanium so I'm confident I can get it to work. Voltage is the key to avoid PWM, some people it doesn't bother .. PWM annoys me but if I exactly dial-in the wattage or Joules I can minimize its effects. Since the Mod, I assume, is serial it should not pulse. It's cheap in a good way. So we'll see, I'm waiting for batch (debugged) two or later this month. ;-)

Keep in mind I don't own that RDA, but I looked at some of the images. As I mentioned the posts must be tight, and I noticed the positive has what appears to be a hex screw which is equally as important. I assume everything's tight and the positive post won't budge if pressure is put on it. I also assume you have another Atty to try, so I'd find one where you can build a single coil to try. Question - is your Atty a Clone or Authentic? Does the SSV wire work okay on a different Atty? It seems apparent the problem isn't in either the Vapor Shark, Evolv or the SSV wire and it's your Vortice V2.

You have to understand Wismec and Joyetech ties, it's like saying we won't use our own in house tech. Many would successfully argue two points: 1. Pricing vs Market share and 2. Simplicity vs Complexity. Demand, there simply are more people willing to pay $50 for a decent Mod than $150. Overly complexity, while there are Enthusiasts out there only a small fraction of a small fraction truly understand the DNA 200 board. I ran across a salesman at my local vape shop that had no idea how to load profiles, and not everyone owns a PC. What I'd like to see is other Modder's recreate the 'Reuleaux' form factor and LMFAO if you think it's an original design! One example is the Tres Equis Triple...

Remove the Atty, if you have some Isopropyl alcohol clean the 510 on both the Atty and the Vapor Shark including the positive. You can use a Qtip but blow it out afterwards. Retighten the post screws, they have to be tight to almost the point of clipping the wires but not cutting the leads. If there's an adjustable 510 then screw it on tight. Next I'd first do a cotton burn with scraps to test at 450° F before wicking. The final wicking should be rather tight under the coil, using Kanthal is different, this helps stabilize the TC on the coil. However, Sweet Spot Vapors Ti has a flaw, long leads will GLOW so I do full wraps with perpendicular 90 degree bends off the back of the coil and keep cotton off the leads! Examples SSV Ti glowing leads http://i.imgur.com/c4skTVD.jpg 90 degree coil http://i.imgur.com/GFq8BZ3.jpg

Did you try my CSV files?? Also run the Atty Analyzer, if the change is more that +/- 0.005 Ohm then you have the beginning of a resistance issue. Also some Atty's, especially RTA's, eg Kayfun V4's and there are others have extremely poor resistance stability. Q - What Atty is your build on?? Have you tried SSV wire on an RDA?

IF the problem is slow then use USB 3 ports.

Ah Gotcha. That's a damn high failure rate, don't get me wrong 'anything' can fail. Hmm maybe a bad batch, I'd wait until your shop gets a new shipment then try a new VT200 OR get a refund if possible and buy some other Mod.

Hey David, it appears your LiPo is out of balance, and the Balancer / charging is starting and stopping. Fully charge your 'pack' and then compare, if you can't get all of the cells the same voltage using the onboard charger then use an external charger / balancer. In addition, I assume you're running the Battery Analyzer on all of your different LiPo's. You might find this interesting https://youtu.be/wIbHLacozFo

Well that can certainly cause hot spots, and if you carefully pull on both ends you can separate the coils even with cotton. Otherwise rewick and use your fingernails with your 'coiler' tool. I've built them both ways, spaced is best but on Titanium it generally doesn't hot spot much. Worst is an overlapping coil. So is it working now?

What is this thread about? If I hated Evolv then why waste more of my time here?! LOL I probably have more DNA 200 Mods than most Reviewers, no failures yet. Maybe spend a few more bucks on a custom DNA 200 Mod or make one yourself. My favorite mass produced Mod is Vapor Shark and closely followed by the Reuleaux. Different Mods of different uses. Look at VaporLips.com and choose exactly what you want for $50-$100 more but you get quality, similarly there are other customs .. I'm not a fan of 3D printed, but wood, composites, metals, etc are out there. Evolv is an Enthusiasts board and for those that like to tinker, use more 'exotic' coils and wire types. Now if I'm going to only use Titanium, Ni200 or Kanthal then I'd probably still want quality. The only board I've found that rivals Evolv is Dicodes and if $350 for a 40W Tube is your thing then I'd consider it. Otherwise, the cheapest decent board is the Koopor's Treebox...

Looking at your graph it appears like the Power (Watts) is set too low, for testing I set mine up to 100W the coils require ~60W (see the Power settle around ~53W). You're not even reaching the Set Temperature of 420F. Now IF it's way too hot and the Profile is properly uploaded then that leaves the Ohm's not correctly Locking. For a trial either select the [X] Ohms Locked once the Atty settles to room temperature ~5-6 minutes or preferred -- upload the settings again and choose the '+' New Coil. If an Atty gets locked at a resistance higher then the Mod actually thinks it's cooler than it actually is and the temps can get very hot. Additionally, I'm posting (2) CSV files that have a cooler profile than Sweet Spot and you might want to try them - http://www.filedropper.com/sweetspottcvfilesjaquith Let me know!

Are you certain you have the CSV file loaded and the correct Profile selected on your Mod? Reason I say this is because so many people are using the Ni200 standard profile, not understanding how to load to Escribe and upload a Profile to their Mod, and the evidence is 250-320° F is very hot on Titanium.