Jaquith

The 0.4 mm CSV file is way off so don't use it, but the 0.5 mm version 2 posted on their website works fine. However, one major coiling problem is long leads, personally I wouldn't recommend any longer than 3-4 mm. Verify you're using this CSV https://www.dropbox.com/s/i9s5ca32cgxao08/SSV%20Ti-Wire%200.5mm%20Ver.2.csv?dl=0 From http://www.sweetspotvapors.com/category_s/1856.htm

My preferences for TC wire are: Ni200 Tempered 26 gauge Titanium Grade 1 24 gauge Stainless Steel SS316L 24 gauge The above are the mainstream supported wire types that will work on the majority of Mods on the current Market. However, only a few Mods support SS wire. Not even close and not even for debate the best TC wire is Titanium Grade 1, my specific recommendation is Titan Wires 24 gauge. Titanium can be used on every TC Mod including Nickel only Mods if needed (just use temperatures under 320° F ). Probably the best theoretical TC wire is Platinum 24 gauge, it's a nontoxic, won't oxidize and is a Nobel metal. However, it's off the charts expensive 6" 24 gauge $60 to $70. It has a similar TCR to Titanium.

What exact wire? (please post link) What exact TFR CSV file are your loading in Escribe? By default only Ni200 is installed into the DNA's firmware, and most Titanium will create 'burning / burnt taste' around 250° F ~320° F. You need to select the correct Titanium from - http://www.steam-engine.org/wirewiz.asp Titanium Grade 1 is listed as 'Titanium 1' in the Wire Builder section. Here's a good interactive Tutorial - http://www.evolvapor.com/guide/story.html scroll down to the bottom section 'Custom TCR's.'

Both will work fine. 1. (2200 mAh / 1000) * 20C = 44A ; 2. (2200 mAh / 1000) * 45C = 99A both are 3S LiPo's w/balancer's (JST-XH), and 11.1V.

I believe Chucky meant 30A. Example (2000 mAh / 1000) * 15C = 30A; 25A works fine. The batteries configurations that work are: 2S or 3S LiPo/LiFePO4/IMR lithium (e.g. 18650's) rated for a constant 23A with a Balancer (JST-XH). The board has a 25A fused Input limit. The safest batteries are safe chemistry 18650's and LiFePO4 packs. Considerations: Frankly my favorite DNA 200 Mod is a simple (2S) dual 18560, you're limited to 133W but I can swap the batteries in <20 seconds. Next is Vapor Shark DNA 200 because it's small and has a 2A charger, and the new Reuleaux DNA 200 with triple 18650's. Even my 2000+ LiPo is a pain, it's big and takes a rather longtime to charge.

The Crown's coils have no resistance leads and it's giving a lot of people headaches. When I use the RBA and SS wire it's fine. I have several CSV files for SS, the V3.25 overall worked the best but if you're having issues then I'll upload the full set. Here's one of many threads /topic/67082-topic/?do=findComment&comment=903793 Good luck and let me know.

The standard DNA 200 draws 1A @ 5V or less whether it's connected to a 2.5A USB supply. However, there are modded boards like those used in the Vapor Shark DNA 200 that can draw up to 2A @ 5V. The idea is no different than a 40W bulb drawing 40W from a plug capable of a much larger supply of power. The PC's are moving towards USB 3.1 with a backwards compatibility with its 100W supply capacity. So a DNA 200, typical, should not exceed 1A, but as I mentioned there are exceptions. Charging, a 2A charges 400% (4 times) faster than a 0.5A 'typical PC supply' and 200% (2 times) faster than a 1A supply. Vapor Shark DNA 200 (2A)

Thankfully I don't have this problem however I have tasks that I would certainly try which may accomplish nothing or resolve the problem and certainly worth a try. My feeling it's either a corruption or hardware related, these steps should eliminate corruption. 1. Verify you all are running the latest Escribe /topic/66731-topic/ (today it's 2015-10-21 EScribe 1.0.35.2) 2. If needed install the latest firmware 2015-09-30 3. Try a Hard Reboot 4. Reset: Backup (Save or Save As) the Mods Profile information and then (New Reset to Evolv Standard). Manually update your settings, import Battery and TCR CSV files as needed. 5. Reinstall your Firmware or revert to an prior version of Firmware: Good Luck!

I'm referring to the USB output, you can use the Balancer to charge and plenty of chargers do but I never suggested directly from the USB. You can increase voltage through a boost / DC-DC. What I'm referring to particularly is the various USB outputs by type.

Here's Samsung's own Capacity tests, 0.5A (3S ~28.4 Wh) vs 10A (3S ~26.2 Wh). Never mind that Samsung allowed the batteries to drain to 2.5V cutoff vs Evlov's 3.0V, nor the cutoff the Evlov's Analyzer imposes as it detects an unstable power delivery. So you think a cutoff of 3.0V~3.1V vs 2.5V and high or low Load has absolutely no effect on the total battery capacity!?

As in what exactly? The Profiles I've posted for UD SS316L seem to work as long as you disable Preheat. My preferences are V3 and V3.5 which seem to be working. Otherwise, my go to wire is Titan Wires 24g. Just for kicks I was going to Clapton 24g UD with 34g Kanthal, but beyond that I have no other plans for SS316L. The SS430 and Platinum are my next venture expanding my TC trials and tribulations, but wow Platinum is CrAzY expensive $70 for one frigging coil. LOL it looks just like SS but it doesn't oxidize.

Amen. SS is something to mess around with or at least SS316x .. long-term .. maybe you. Lower gauge with big coils, SS is okay. Just my opinion. Now I'm looking at SS430 and Pt wire.

There is nearly no room for a Resistance variation. SS is tough enough, the N80 might help a little (increased the TCR) but a sneeze and you can go from no vape to flames. Try this http://www.filedropper.com/dna200-ss304ni80 NO GUARANTEES so keep your old settings!

Imagine what you 'think' I know multiply it times 50 and then maybe more. It's getting rather annoying! 1A * 5V = 5W; Watts = Volts * Amps You are the only one saying a damn thing about 9V!? USB Power specs https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB#Power

It could just as easily be a Resistance Issue from your Atty. I'd start by re-tightening all of the connections to your coils, check the 510 if it's loose (adjustable 510), look at the Resistance of the coil compared to what it was originally locked to, and clean the 510's of both the Atty and your Mod. What you're describing, assuming it worked 100% correctly, is a Resistance issue ie IF the Resistance jumps UP the Board thinks it's HOT. Q - What Atty??

Remove all 3 batteries, connect to Escribe and perform a Hard Reboot (see below). IF you cannot connect without batteries then you've probably got a dead DNA 200 board. IF it reboots without batteries then chances are the 'positive' isn't connecting properly or you put a battery in backwards.

When you 'mix' metals (Kanthal is an alloy of FeCrAl) and Ni200 you no longer have an accurate (Temperature, Resistance) as with a pure Ni200 coil. I've built Twisted 30/30, 28/28 gauge of Ni200 / Kanthal, and a Clapton of 26 Ni200 with both 30 and 34 gauge Kanthal. They work'ish but require temperature (TCR) adjustment. Adding some Ni200 doesn't make it a magical TC Ni200 coil. What you have is some odd coil with a near flat TCR that I really don't recommend, but here's the info: Calculated TFR - http://www.filedropper.com/dna200-clapton-steamengine Flat curve (Fused 2x26 Kanthal, 1x30 Ni200); the FLAT one is your calculated 'curve':

Its, Joytech, board is a cheap non-programmable (firmware upgrade only) with Ni200, SS (guessing a Chinese equivalent to SS316L) and Titanium TC support .. plus VW mode. I'd also guess a PWM power vs a much smoother DC-DC as with Evolv. Specs: Resistance range: 0.05-1.0ohm for TC-Ni/TC-Ti/TC-SS mode; 0.1-3.5ohm for VW mode The eVic has crap board with a huge screen .. this has a small screen. I don't own one, I'm ordering one out of curiosity...

I agree it looks fine, the fuse. See page 10 for an example of a blown 25A fuse - http://www.evolvapor.com/datasheet/dna200.pdf

Who said it did? What?? USB with type D connector has a 5V limit. Evolv limits the voltage to the Cell's capacity not the series voltage; balanced charger...

Okay first off Evolv's DNA 200 doesn't nor ever will 'auto detect' a TC from Non-TC coils. There's no way to do this considering the huge variety of metals and alloys available. It's not a 'Bug.' Next, other than Ni200 you'll need to upload the correct TCR file(s) for your wire(s) to work properly. Problem, Evolv will only link you to a third-party site eg Steam Engine. Further, what wire is that and the reason I ask is the Resistance change does not look characteristic to Ni200. Ni200 has a near vertical heating and not this 'mountain climbing' curve like what you've posted. Edit: I read the "Lol yes its ni200" .. so IF it is then add more Power; for testing set it to 200W. Describe your Coil(s) (gauge, number of coils, wraps, inner diameter, spaced or not, and material)?? Example raw Ni200 coil (using the built-in Ni200 profile):

What is sounds more like, hopefully, is proper seating. If possible try a different set of batteries. I had no issues with LG HG2's, none with Sony VTC5's ... but I had some issues with my Samsung 25's. Thankfully I have a ton of 25R's; a swapped battery corrected the problem. The problem appeared to originate with the positive connections. When I swap a battery I put pressure against the spring loaded negative so the positive moves freely ie doesn't catch the plastic ring. Possibility: What I've been the most leery about is creating a dead short removing and installing batteries with that lip moving the protective battery O-ring and exposing the ground. Hopefully in this process you didn't get a split second short.

The stock Evolv USB charger on the DNA 200 is 1A and it will indeed supply the full 1A to the balancer IF the supplied Voltage and Current is sufficient for 1A charging. Charging or Testing (Case Analyzer) from a PC are a problem if using USB V1.x~V2.x or if the USB 3.x is non-native plus different power variants. Only the revised high power power variants of USB 2.0 / USB 3.0 Battery Charging Specification (Version 1.2; December 2010) and USB 3.1 (1.5A). So to remedy this problem either requires a: USB 3.x Card, Powered USB HUB, or in some rare instances BIOS/UEFI and or software/driver enabling. In the case of USB 2.x with higher e.g 1.5A you lose data transmission. Personally, I don't find charging off your PC an 'ideal' solution for many reasons. My preferred solution is USB 3.x either as a native solution or as an add-on IF 1A requirement is important. Hope that helps.

The Voltage Drop is not a constant; example you'll see a higher voltage drop when the batteries are above Nominal Voltage (Peak) and then a considerably smaller voltage drop once the battery settles to its Nominal Voltage. The amount of voltage drop AND Wh is dependent upon he size of the Load (1A, 5A ,10A, 20A). What your graph is showing is the sum of the 3S cells and the cells are still above Nominal Voltage (Peak is 4.2V, Nominal is 3.6V, Cutoff 2.5V).

The what? Frustrated maybe, offended LOL nah. That '9.6V' idea you have is just purely wrong, and is baseless by supposition. IF I or anyone used a 'flashlight bulb' for their Battery Analyzer tests then the only differences between 'Rated' Wh and 'Observed' Wh would be from battery cutoff, BUT when someone is pulling 10A plus from their batteries and getting constant 'Weak Battery' at the 50% Indicator or some other error then how useful is a Profile. My test coil is a 9A @ 40W which represents most TC scenarios, but it sure doesn't represent someone who is 20A and higher at 150W-200W. My and other Profiles will not be accurate and towards the end of the battery life a 10% or perhaps a 20% may certainly give them a 'Weak Battery' or other error. The 'Wh' is the USABLE energy from batteries that the Conditions, Limitations, and Stability were calculated in the Battery Analyzer. Above I've stated the Escribe voltage cutoff and other limitations I've observed. Example, if you used a flashlight bulb 1A @ 10W test may have been >30 Wh (less the 3.0V Evolv vs 2.5V per Spec; shallow voltage drops) and in contrast a 20A plus @ 150W <20 Wh (much larger voltage drops). The 'Best' Battery Profile is using your batteries on your Mod with your typical build. So IF you're a 150W-200W @ 20A scenario and higher then that's what you need to test. Is this making any sense to you? You say say you read what I typed, but that's different than understanding what you're reading.