Jaquith

The easiest question is what I don't have in regards to Atty's. Keep in mind I have 6 DNA 200's. So if the question is that you're trying to ask me is if I have accurate Atty's then the obvious answer is yes. I'm the Temperature Control guy that has appeared on The vApe Team, Vape Miser, etc. I suggest you try other metals and purchase a Meter and Probe. It most certainly flies right past the set Temperature if you have a rediculous setting. I can taste / sense the difference between 520 and 540 F. Also I don't mindlessly set the the wattage, on every coil(s) I build I know the Heat Coefficient and set the Wattage accordingly; examples: SS316L http://i.imgur.com/WLM2vWd.png Ni200 http://i.imgur.com/ELEsdam.png Ti http://i.imgur.com/llHAIhT.png Most every early adopter knows how bad it use to be, it's better now, but it absolutely jumps past the set Temperature .. period. Undeniable fact.

30W Ni200 coil with a 200W Preheat .. yeah that's crazy.

It's not my coiling or anything I'm doing incorrectly. If your senses as in mouth fail to tell the difference then Phil showed that problem in his 4 (3 with a 2 part) part video. It's especially noticeable in the 500° F and up temperature range, I'm a 520° F give or take guy. People vaping in the 420°~480° F, give or take, may not notice the difference. Obviously SS wire it's more obvious to everyone.

Yeah if temperature accuracy doesn't matter crank up your Preheat. Aggressive Preheat is more like Overheat followed by cooling. The Preheat needs some tweaking and not exceed the set temperature which it easily does. Phil, I and others knows it does this and it's a bug or at the very least needs a setting to either over heat which it does now and another to correct heat which now is a matter of excessive tweaking.

Titanium and stable Atty's (RTA's, RDA's and Tanks) is the solution; most all RDA's are very stable. I use Titan Wires 24 gauge Titanium Grade 1 wire, I know it works so if I have a problem then it's the Atty. Pretty much any Mod with Titanium support does a decent job. The DNA 200 is setup for Ni200 with crazy preheat settings .. so that's where the DNA 200 isn't for everyone. However, if you're inquisitive and like to tinker it's an outstanding hobbyist board! :-)

Unless your Atty while running the Analyzer is jumping all over the place while moving the Atty on the Mod, don't 'Lock Resistance' and instead let it adjust automatically. Between vaping sessions the DNA compares the Cold Resistance auto locks the new resistance. IF you are a TC aficionado then run all of the Analyzers the DNA 200 offers, and do that Mod Resistance as I described. Example my Reuleaux is not the vanilla 0.003 Ohms. However, I'm confident its ability to measure resistance is accurate enough once calibrated. Tips: the gunk on your coils is an insulator and will progressively throw off the temperature. Keep your coils clean. The metal shavings/juice, black grit, on your 510's also throws off a temperature by changing the resistance; clean. The constant temperature changes of your coil loosens the wire and creates resistance jumping; tighten your coils.

My 'guess' is calibration offsets and by no means am I thinking it's irrelevant. The DNA 40 had no calibration options, that I'm aware of anyway nor does an SX350J (non M Class; yep they're different) which some Modder's used. So if there were any calibration offsets they came from YiHi and were internal to their resellers on an OEM basis. Evolv went more the open source route. YiHi might of guessed a 'global' offset ie an average?! However, the current DNA 200 with Firmware does offer a 'Mod Resistance' offset to the user. Temperature Control works as a prediction to 'change' and the math works as a fraction (percentage) change. So lets test the math: DNA 0.16 + (120%) = 0.192 - 0.16 = 0.032 YiHi 0.145 + (120%) = 0.174 - 0.145 =0.029 0.032 (not equal) 0.029 ; 10% difference; so a 10% change of 0.030 Ohm's on some TCR's might mean 5F on others 50F. True might be in the middle .. who knows. That's why this setting is hugely important of the DNA 200: LOL if you think your DNA is correct with 0, it's not. Frankly, I took an old Atty and silver soldered the positive and negative then with the 'Mod Resistance' at 0 run the Atomizer Analyzer .. whatever value it reads gets plugged into the Mod Resistance. On every Mod it's going to be slightly different .. which is exactly why I run my own including on my Reuleaux, Vapor Shark, etc.

The simple answer is Accuracy and Calibration with the added variable of Conductivity. Most Meters are cheap with cheap (female) 510's their accuracy that's reliable to the 1/10th Ohm some are fractionally better. Next is Calibration, most Multimeters have a calibration setting to zero-out the resistance of the wires and then the accuracy might be 1/100th. The variable that's the hardest to control is the Conductivity which is one of the reasons Evolv employs a Dynamic Lock as opposed to a hard Atty lock. None of this suggests a 'Reading' can't register a 1/100th (0.01) on a cheap Ohm Reader nor 1/1000th (0.001) of an Ohm on a Mod. TC control looks at a relative change over time. Terms like 'jump or drift or jitter' Resistance inaccuracies adversely effect accurate TC. Most DNA 200 Mods are not properly set up and I've seen Resistance Calibrations off by as much as 0.020 Ohm. Materials, the Atty's 510 can be very unstable and some Atty's simply are so bad in TC their use isn't recommended, including plating. Next are the materials used female on your Mod and the pressure applied to the 510 and the conductivity of the materials plus the length of wires, solder points, calibration, etc. The 'etc' can be effected quite a bit by Oxidation, Plating, Contact and Debris. I strongly recommend maintaining your 510's and cleaning with a solvent eg Isopropyl alcohol both your Atty's and especially you Mods. Most TC Mods are have an accuracy 10 fold over your cheap Resistance Meter.

In addition make sure you have the latest Escribe found here /topic/66731-topic/

A toggle would be great 3 .. then 3 and back and forth. Example during charging I have my set 3 but I'd love to see each cell's 1-3 voltage. I certain we all have similar options we'd like to see during use.

There's a great tutorial at the bottom called "Custom TCR's" http://www.evolvapor.com/guide/story.html If the CSV header information doesn't match with what's expected you might get this error and or if the file is empty. The tutorial is where I'd start and prior to importing the file I'd open it before importing.

It's easy to run your own Battery Profile, just charge the batteries, 4 14" wires to make rabbit ears, input your battery info per spec and run the test .. it takes a while but it's worth it.

For 'now' its cutsoff at approximately 3.0V (under load); 2S = 6V and 3S = 9V. I inserted the actual battery specs for the LG HG2 (3.6V, 2.5V cuttoff @ 3,000 mAh). Now the sag primarily depends upon your load and obviously your battery. So the firmware, for now, ignores any input <3.0V. I assume in your dual 2S configuration, the "Kanthal Power Limit" is = 133W and not 200W AND you have a 2S not 3S Battery Profile installed onto your Mod. The one I published is for 200W, 3S and 3x18650 LG HG2's in good (new) condition. So to answer your questions: 1. Any 'Cell' value Less than 3.0V won't 'fire.' Though I've heard (2.85V somewhere is supposedly programmed). 2. Weak battery warning happens for a few reasons, but once I properly configure 'my Mods' the batteries are nearly depleted and <5% (fractionally above cutoff; no load) and the sag / voltage drop is hitting the, in this case 3.0V. Of course I've read the "at 20% I get a Weak Battery" in redit, but those are improperly set up and poorly configured Mods for the most part. Your Load, Battery condition, Setup, etc all play a part in getting oddball problems. If you look and compare my profiles you'll note 0% = ~3.0V. Here's a 0.34 Ohm (TC) with a 0.11V drop at ~11.3A with the battery under 18% of its charge:

My stuff works and others outside of here have been using it and are happy : Here's my LG HG2 Profile and I set the cutoff to 2.5V http://www.filedropper.com/3slghg2batteryprofile Settings https://s3.amazonaws.com/files.websitetoolbox.com/186396/2512125 Here's the remaining settings that are from the manufacturer, mine are actual but close. https://s3.amazonaws.com/files.websitetoolbox.com/186396/2512411

Here's the good thing you can change it to whatever you want. I'm into TC first and foremost so Ohms, Voltage & Temperature is where it's all at especially once you understand Heat Coefficients of your coils. Heat Coefficient .. I know what the applied voltage 'should be' for an appx temperature. However, as far as 'Battery Safety' is concerned Amps is the last place of concern on this or frankly any 'properly' functioning device, that's work you should have done before you installed a battery. 23A is the max that will be drawn from your battery, 25A is the onboard fuse input limit. So 'what's really important' .. I'd safely say it's A LOT MORE concerning what's the Voltage of EACH CELL. LiPo's have a short lifespan in comparison to a properly maintained 18650, and what's worse is you can potentially have a catastrophic failure when one of the, in our case, three cells is dead or simply is failing. I'm already reading reports of eg Hotcig and I'm absolutely certain there are others of the packs having a bad cell. Example:

What it sounds like is you're using Ni200 mode and not loading the Titanium profile. Also remember there are 8 profiles. To change Profiles hold the + / - buttons then once locked quickly press + (or -) twice then by pressing the (+ or -) select your profile and fire once to lock in.

As I said It's 18650's vs LiPo's; copy/paste using IDENTICAL Atty and settings. [Identical ecig file and identical dual Ti/Kanthal Atty] Next 18650's sag (voltage drop) more than LiPo's. Here's a 18650's: Reuleaux with 3S and nearly depleted (~10%) vs 2S DNA 200 (133W) with fully charged batteries (2); vs LiPo's: a 2000 mAh LiPo 60% vs 900 mAh LiPo fully charged: Perhaps now folks will understand why I'd like to see for 18650's the Cell Soft Cutoff go down to 2.5V. LiPo's are essentially 'dead' at ~3.0V (load) and they drop-off a cliff whereas an 18650 is still pumping out power at 2.6V (load). 18650 on the Right .. LiPo on the Left:

This is my last post here in this thread .. unless anyone can find a concrete fault of the Reuleaux, and who clearly understands 3S wiring, wiring specs and has performed tests... My sincerest suggestion is for people to build a DNA 200 Mod, in doing so as I have you're forced to understand simple wiring, soldering, wire types and specs. There is nothing that I have seen, read here or know about so far that makes the Reuleaux substandard.

draw me up a diagram kid. im pickin up what yer layin down, but a diagram would make my night. thanks.[/QUOTE] Not very good, just lashed up in M$paint This is not a recommendation, but it could be how the Reueaux is wired, just saying don't shot the messenger.[/QUOTE] In your 'drawing' you'd take the 3rd negative off your 'ground.' [/QUOTE] I don't follow there are only 2 negatives the negative pad which is shown grounded and the negative balance connection shown connected to the negative pad. No extra wiring needed to complete the circuits all 4 balance connections are connected.[/QUOTE] I don't mean to be rude, but there's (1) positive AND (3) negatives! On the guy's drawing he shows a ground; he's missing aka FORGOT a wire. Look at this properly configured 3S:

draw me up a diagram kid. im pickin up what yer layin down, but a diagram would make my night. thanks.[/QUOTE] Not very good, just lashed up in M$paint This is not a recommendation, but it could be how the Reueaux is wired, just saying don't shot the messenger.[/QUOTE] In your 'drawing' for a properly wired balancer you'd take the 3rd negative off your 'ground.' Look at my LiPo wiring schematic I posted, it's correct. My Reuleaux reads ALL three batteries correctly and separately. I mean wow run the Device Monitor and select cells 1,2 & 3; example: raw test file http://www.filedropper.com/volt

Wow look for the little wires (2) red + (2) black = 4. Two from the top and 2 on the bottom .. all 4 balance are there and accounted for. Yes on a 3S you need ALL 4 wires; positive and at the end of each negative: [Identical ecig file and identical dual Ti/Kanthal Atty] Next 18650's sag (voltage drop) more than LiPo's. Here's a 2S DNA 200 (133W) with fully charged batteries (2) vs Reuleaux with 3S and nearly depleted (~10%) vs a 2000 mAh LiPo 60% vs 900 mAh LiPo fully charged:

where are the balance leads? whats soldered on the four balance taps.[/QUOTE] Wow .. then either pull yours apart or look at all of the images posted. Now while I'd prefer to see 3 black and 1 red, maybe they chose the colors as they did to reduce production errors. Count them .. 4 .. see http://smg.photobucket.com/user/djs61/media/The%20Reuleaux/Wismec%20Reuleaux%2015.jpg.html

IF you have Titanium Grade 1 with then either the CSV "DNA200-Titanium_1-SteamEngine" or the CSV I posted (CSV in the Zip file) will work, the differences are negligible. You have to read the 'fine print' when purchasing 'Titanium' and it has to say 'Titanium Grade 1' wire. Example, Sweet Spot Vapor's http://www.sweetspotvapors.com/category_s/1854.htm is NOT grade 1-5 Titanium wire, it's an ALLOY of more FE (Iron, etc). Further, I assume that you are loading the CSV file properly. Nice tutorial on the bottom, see "Custom TCR's" http://www.evolvapor.com/guide/story.html Question, what Titanium do you have and please provide a link.

Silicone wires with flexible cores are more flexible and typically with more sheen than PVC counterparts. Wismec has a team of Engineers and they can read. I'm confident the Reuleaux is built to spec. Evolv has published their specs since day one. I'm confident they read them. If the Reuleaux is bad with bad wiring then prove it. My box wiring is overkill http://i.imgur.com/waQ0wmnh.jpg

The wire 'looks' like 18 gauge silicone encased, the small wires are for cell monitoring and 1A charging to the Balancer. Voltage drop for such short lengths is negligible