Jaquith

The file I modded was the Grade 1, but it seemed to be about 40F too cool so I simply tweaked it up a tad. The Clapton is only if your mix / Clapton is running too cool; otherwise the regular CSV file is fine. I vape in 500 F plus range... Grade 1 Titanium is Grade 1 no matter what label is put on the packaging.

Unless you really changed your alloy since the beginning .. your CSV files will light cotton on fire. Yes I have your latest "TFR/CSV files" and ended up completely rewriting the files before they worked. Also your wire with any long legs in TC they light-up / glow way too hot. Titanium legs will also be hotter, but nothing like this below! I use Titan Wire or any Grade 1 Titanium. The extra Fe, Iron, or whatever you've added ruins it in TC. Sweet Spot Ti-alloy wire:

Edit - looking at the schematic again, no. Yes you can power the board but no you couldn't power the Atty. The negative comes off the last battery and AFAIK you'd need a switch (2S-3S) for the wiring or a blank aka a bridge. Hmm I don't see why not AFTER making a couple changes in Escribe: 1. 3S to 2S and 2. 200W to 133W max. You'd also need to rerun the Battery Analyzer if you want the correct charging and metering of the batteries. This all entirely dependant upon Reuleaux wiring, but seeing that it's turning on appears to be correct. The Balancer runs off the ends of each cell's negative. You can review here http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/lipo.html select Show Balancer on the top diagram. Lastly, it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to verify especially warranty data with Wismec http://www.wismec.com/contact/

I've tried a lot of wires and for me by far Titanium has been the best. I prefer 24 gauge Titan Wires (Titanium Grade 1) http://titanwires.com/titan-wire-retailers/ Here's the CSV that I use and NEVER do I get 'dark red' aka glowing wires nor burnt cotton http://www.filedropper.com/titanwirescsvfiles For more help, I'd recommend reviewing the 'Custom TCR' help found here http://www.evolvapor.com/guide/story.html Good luck!

Heres's another to try as well V3.25 http://www.filedropper.com/dna200-ud-ss316ldjaquithv325

I use this CVS file for the Crown SS http://www.filedropper.com/dna200-ud-ss316ldjaquithv3 The Crown use some "Grade D SS316L" whatever that is!? In addition, I disable the Preheat; 'tip' I'd recommend that you try is to turn-off Preheat using SS, other wire no, but SS .. I'd certainly try it; (1,1,0): Let me know. I also read here about TCR's, on the Crown 0.00097 is what I've used with minor tweaks. SS for 'TC' is a pain, Titanium Grade 1 by far is my preference.

As I've mentioned a few times, Preheat is flawed. On SS I just simply don't use it. A Clapton requires a lot of power. To debug I'd raise the wattage to 100W and turn off Preheat (1,1,0). When I say Preheat is flawed, it's flawed in that often (depends on settings) it over shoots the set Temperature so you get this roller-coaster effect. Our Clapton's are close but I'm using 24 gauge Titanium core and 34 gauge Clapton plus an extra wrap. Since this flaw is present and you have the Aromamizer remove the tank, saturate the wick to a normal amount, not flooded, set the Wattage way high obviously with TC on and blow over the coils and note the wattage over at least 3-4 seconds. That's the Base Wattage needed for your set Temperature. Try that for a while and see if it's stable. Now for Preheat say it's 70W * 120% - 70W * 150% or 84W - 105W using 0.5-1.0 second. Let me know.

Yours looks great and the way it should be. I would recommend your 5.5 over my 6.5 / 2.5 mm ID that I had to shoehorn in. Question, what is your (looks like 34 gauge) outer wire? I'm running mine around 90W with 150W Preheat / 5 / 1 second at 550-570 F. Oh yeah lol I emptied a (6 ml) tank faster than I care to admit. ;-) Nano's are okay IMHO for single coil or otherwise if they have super easy filling and most don't. I got a Nano kit, $7, for my Billow V2 and as easy as it is to bottom fill it gets old fast.

I haven't tried, yet, a SS316L / Kanthal Clapton, but I've done a Ni200 and Titanium. Until I got the 'core' SS316L TC right it didn't make sense to potentially waste a Clapton (time). I'll start off with a simple Twisted...easy and I'll get the idea. Pfft I had no brains I grabbed two Clapton 6" segments (from different runs; meant for two separate single coil Atty's .. oopsy) than my 18" consistent wire; they were from different runs. However, sometimes you can learn from other's errors. For TC to work on each coil balanced Clapton's must have the same Kanthal 'density' in addition to the coiling itself and if they're off then the temp can be off 40-50 F (or more) per coil. This is what NOT to do; I'm using it and it tastes good so..: Here's a the CSV files for the Titan Wire (Titanium Grade 1) http://www.filedropper.com/titanwirescsvfiles Note on Titanium I prefer a Punch 3-5 and the Preheat Power around 150% of the set Power, and that or more on a Clapton. Otherwise, the first vape takes 1-2 seconds to fully ramp up.

Just noticed this Thread the only 'lacking' as such is LiPo's have a huge battery drop-off that's much higher than an 18650. Generic LiPo is essentially dead around 3V whereas an 18650 2.5V-2.7V (under load voltage). So your 'triple' 3000 mAh is damn near close to, a 2000 mAh LiPo. Evolve needs to allow lowing the voltage to 2.5V-2.6V!

I am running a 0,285ohm spaced coil in my Goblin mini. I have tried the version 4 and 3,125 and the version 3 of yours and i have settled with the version 3. I get great flavor, but some sizzling on the coil also after I stop vaping? I have the temp set at 235C and 35W and still some fluctating when i test in device monitor. I will try the cotton suggestion of yours when the tank is emty I may have to little cotton in there. Is it better to run a higher ohm with the SS? thank you[/QUOTE] Ideally the issue to overcome stability with SS or for that matter most TC wires is the Gauge. Big Man (power) vs Little Man (wire) as the Little Man becomes larger (Lower Gauge) it won't move around as much being pushed by the Big Man. Bad analogy I know, but it's the reason I prefer 24 Gauge and Mixed Wire coiling. Stability. I do, lets call them 'odd' tests especially once I notice something. Example, same with SS, I wads comparing and calibrating Sweet Spot 'TiFe' wire, their wire is an alloy not pure Grade 1 Titanium and I was getting a burnt taste and I couldn't figure it out .. I thought the legs maybe .. I made a coil in the Veritas RDA and I turned the lights off and looked http://i.imgur.com/c4skTVD.jpg the coil itself the TC was perfect. Now I read a Saucecode RBA .. wow I have one of those it drove me CrAzY and I both hate it and my Triton V1 because of it. I do not purchase any wire smaller than 26 gauge (see above), even my Ni200 is 26 gauge Tempered. What's crossing my mind to try is Twisted SS316L and Kanthal on higher gauge to stabilize the wire. My 26 gauge SS316L works okay, my 24 gauge much better. Another issue with SS3XXX is much of it is cold pressed and my eyeballs popped-out the first time I pulsed SS it not only has hotspots on the coil but embedded in layers in the wire itself. The best SS316L build I have is a 7.5 warp 3 mm with 90-deg legs that I pulsed to remove the hotspots and as I've mentioned above for technique. I read somewhere about the coils 'sizzling' yeah most will until the temp goes down, but some of that is with the wicking tighter vs looser. Different metals and more obvious is higher gauges cool faster. Most of my Ti builds stop almost instantly.

What Atty do you have?

One other 'tip' is to have the cotton in the coil rather tight and by that I mean it barely goes through the coil, then shift right and left to loosen. This stabilizes the TC and eliminates spitting. Next cut the cotton in Tanks shorter as in barely long enough, next I comb out the ends using something pointy eg tweezers with pointy ends or a small thin paperclip, and retrim the ends. Another problem is long leads, the leads are often hotter than the coils themselves in TC, so just keep that in mind. Often I'll do 90 degree bends of both lead wires, spaced coils (not touching), and attempt to avoid cotton from touching or resting on the leads.

Hmm .. that's generally TC kicking in from a dry(er) wick. Trick to test is to completely plug off the airflow (I use my fingers) and while drawing (sucking) let go of the airflow holes. As I mentioned as well .. compound that problem with Preheat!

Part of the 'problem' especially with SS wire and it's low TCR is it becomes erratic and I'm thinking of experimenting with adding 3-4 values in the 480-550 F range which is where I typically vape. Yeah, I strongly recommend people play with the values, particularly in the temperature ranges they vape in! Also, one 'tip' I'd recommend that you try is to turn-off Preheat using SS, other wire no, but SS .. I'd certainly try it; (1,1,0): Here's SS V3.125 - http://www.filedropper.com/dna200-ud-ss316ldjaquithv3125 Let me know!

I've wondered the same, the weirdest was Sweet Spot Vapors 'Titanium,' it's actually an alloy and not Grade 1-5, but their published CSV files for their 0.4 and 0.5 mm will light my cotton on fire and partially glow the wire at 450F. So sure it's possible something is off from Evolv. However, in contrast the Titanium Grade 1, for me, was about 40-50 F too cool. So I fixed those as well. BTW .. I made a V 3.125 which is inbetween.

That study was about heavy metals, (Au, Pt, Ag), nanoparticles absorption and abnormalities / levels observed and their effects on sensitive embryos. Noble metals are metals that are resistant to corrosion and oxidation in the atmosphere. Gold (Au) and Platinum (Pt) are examples of Noble metals, Silver (Ag) and Titanium (Ti) can oxidize, Silver easily. However, Titanium is a Biocompatible metal, meaning it does not react on a cellular level ie is safe. Let me put it this way, Titanium, non alloy Grades 1-5, is by far the safest 'affordable' metal that can be used in vaping and in particular works well in TC. Yep, you can indeed IF the metal gets too hot, form Ti02 Titanium Dioxide once the metal starts glowing a 'yellowish' color. Now if you never pulse Titainium to clean and use in TC then you have nothing to be concerned about, Ti02 will not form, not even close in the 600F, Ti02 forms when it reacts with O2 >2,100 F! I'm a Chemist by education and all of this information is easily Google'd and verifiable. What happened, the FEAR of Ti02, was Stealth Vape had some Voodoo science web page with shards of Titaium going up in flames (ever see what happens to steel wool and a 9V battery?) and NOT knowing the difference between commercially produced nanoparticles and those that form on 'heated wire exposed to air.' Now Stealth Vapes is selling Titainum Grade 1 wire .. to which they said the 'never would sell' .. yeah right! LOL this same argument goes on with Stainless Steel vs Titanium cookware .. hint you're at risk with SS cookware .. so why is it used .. simple money, the cost of Titanium cookware is 10X or more than SS. Money vs Health. From what I'm reading, Platinum is safer, it's a Noble metal and will not oxidize, works in TC .. BUT .. $70 / coil vs <$0.50 / coil using Titanium. At any giving point I'm using a dozen Atty's and many with 2 coils so say (18 coils * $70/coil) = $1,260 and lets hope I don't screw-up a coil or two or three!

I'm still on my phone (away from my PC with its data files), soon, sorry for the delay.

No doubt the cost of Platinum or Gold makes it for the uber Hobbyist; their cost is very close, Platinum is about 20% less but it's more rare. The couple studies that I've briefly read suggests Platinum shows the least toxicity with Gold coming very close, but Silver showed levels of toxicity so that metal is probably one that I'd skip certainly for long-term. Here's one thought, while I'm a decent 'coiler' lol I'm not perfect and I've certainly screwed up coils that I tossed out and when it's say Kanthal or as it should (cost) Stainless Steel it's no big deal .. lessons learned and you move on. But screw up a Platinum or Gold coil and you're going to be devastated. :-( Although, sporting around a Gold coil would be cool! Here's one brief I read over (Au, Pt, Ag), you can download the abstract http://www.researchgate.net/publication/50591381_Comparison_of_the_Toxicity_of_Silver_Gold_and_Platinum_Nanoparticles_in_Developing_Zebrafish_Embryos Platinum (Amazon hurry only 9 left lol) http://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Gauge-99-9-Round-Inches/dp/B008GWOAMI Platinum (cheaper again lol; we could group buy 150' for only $9,000) http://www.surepure.com/Platinum-Wire-Rod-0.020-in.-0.5-mm-24-gauge-Platinum-Wire-Rod-99.95-Percent/a/9,145,28,1,824#purity

The differences in coiling are going to be wire surface area, power, temperature and any 'coloring' from the wire itself ( metallic taste ). That's assuming a verbatim Atty, setup and juice. My insanity today is looking at pure Platinum ($150 / foot 0.5 mm). Even Steam Engine doesn't have data. I know the ML Class has a profile which is why I'm thinking about it. Platinum doesn't oxidize, its melting temperature is simular to Titanium, noble metal .. and wow expensive. I mentioned it once in this post, but I'm curious if you've considered it?

No you're not tasting Ti02 and the natural formation Type (IV) with large particulates isn't the 'harmful' type anyway. Harmful isn't the food grade, natural, either aka in the recent past on your donuts. Instead the harmful type TiO2 is produced commercially and in a heavily acidic bath. As far as Clapton's vs Clapton's .. Ti/Ka vs what in comparison (wire & gauges)? Glad to hear you found a CSV that's working.

I just meant Clapton's require a fair amount of power and drain any battery quickly. The USA wire I purchased from Amazon is Beadalon wire. The stability I'm getting with Titanium / Kanthal is very good but I had to adjust the CSV file. Phil is using what appears to be welding wire, guessing, a Weldcote or Harris MIG spool and yeah in 'bulk' it's cheap; aka RE316L. Keep in mind, I think a lot of this 316L/317L, probably MIG, is Chinese and they don't make this wire for our purpose of vaping and inhalation. Here's something to read http://m.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/support/welding-how-to/Pages/mig-wire-selection-detail.aspx The more I know the less I trust especially when I see distinct TCR variations. I wouldn't be surprised even if (most) Titanium Grade 1 has its origins in China. I'm for more testing and verifications.

Yeah I hear you about FT, but lol UD SS316L is Chinese; this is the wire I received but the UD and this is no doubt different https://m.fasttech.com/products/0/10016603/3361603-316l-stainless-steel-heating-wire-for-rebuildable The only Twisted I've done is 30/30 and 28/28 Ni200 / Kanthal. It makes builds like this possible http://m.imgur.com/uYUEwBo,2j2Zew3,afoLKoP I've also done Ni200 / Kanthal Clapton's http://i.imgur.com/PLofAnJh.jpg Sorry, I'm not trying to do a show and tell. If you have Ejuice that has different notes at lower temperatures that are different at higher then indeed Clapton's will bring both together for better or worse, generally better .. your battery / LiPo will remind you.

I have both the rough and polished, as far as taste IMHO they're the same. The polished loses 1 gauge, so 24 is actually 25; the polished is easier to clean. LMAO, I guess the unpolished holds flavor like a good old iron pan. It's 6 of 1, half a dozen to another .. neither is really better. The polished is typically to dirtiest from powdered Ti and machine oil. I clean them both. The most efficient Titanium / Kanthal Clapton's are 24 gauge Titanium with 34 gauge Kanthal http://i.imgur.com/hLJLgrEh.jpg but I've used 30 gauge which is also very nice, it depends upon the juice. Steam Engine allows for the mix and Clapton's, but you know me I edit my own based upon a Titanium Grade 1 CSV. Tomorrow I'll post it, CSV file, I'm on my phone. Edit .. I used some Amazon SS316L, UD SS316L, and then some FastTech SS316L which while off actually works better than UD's. I also purchased some cheap Titanium Grade 1 from FastTech which was dead on in TC not to mention a fraction of the price. SS3XXX wire, all of it should be dirt cheap!!! Yep it is I David. :-)

The only difference in the Titanium is rough vs polished. As I mentioned, I use 24 gauge Titanium. I think the gauge has more to do with the 'experience' .. I know I prefer 26 gauge Ni200 over 28 or 30, but I've done twisted and Clapton Ni200. I have some sweet Titanium / Kanthal Clapton's. Part of the flavor added notes is from mixing wire types in Twisted, Clapton's, etc avoiding 'monotone' temperatures. I'm not saying SS is garbage, I'm saying it's jumpy, difficult to properly TC, and because of the apparent alloy (foundry) differences one SS316L is not the same as another. In contrast Titanium has a steeper TCR and is both much easier to TC accurately and universally there's only one Titanium Grade 1 vs at least 4 alloy variants of SS316L not to mention multiple standardizations. China uses GB not SAE standards.