Vape_Like_A_Boss

From a shop perspective, if you're going to be selling Chinese boxes, I think you would want a warranty to cover the whole mod, so that in the event of failure you can send it to the manufacturer, and have it repaired or replaced. I don't doubt that if the chip failed, you could pull it and send it to Evolv. But I would think that for a warranty on the device itself, where you just send them the bad one, then they fix it and send it back completed, it would have to be through the manufacturer. If it's zapping boards because of a clearance issue or some form of improper grounding, Evolv can't take on that cost of replacing boards over and over in a device that's got a defective design. I've dealt with a couple of Chinese manufacturers on warranty claims with my personal mods, and I'm a small business owner. If I were you, I'd get specific warranty terms in writing from your distributor or manufacturer before placing the order, and make sure that your wholesale cost is good enough to cover you eating the loss of a couple of mods in case you have to replace them for the customer service aspect and the manufacturer doesn't cover that cost. Since I mentioned my experience where I was really disappointed in the warranty process for a Chinese mod from P4U, I should probably mention that I had to warranty repair a Vapor Shark, and it was really easy with great customer service. It wasn't ideal, but since I needed to use the warranty service, at least they handled it correctly and treated me like they cared if I bought another mod from them later.

I'm really liking my maxamps.com 2000 mah 3S LiPo, if the sizes will work with your dimensions and their lifetime warranty and price work out with your "vape budget" hands as grimm green says. http://www.maxamps.com/proddetail.php?prod=Lipo-2000-111-Pack

Hey James, John, or Brandon, For "beta testing" purposes for us that are installing the early software updates from this thread, would you prefer we do an "update" installation by just running the new exe installer, or would you rather us do a "clean install" and uninstall the old program from Windows before installing the new one? I haven't even had a problem to report yet, but I've had developers prefer both ways, and I've just been installing on top of the old one. I want to test how it helps you guys most though.

That wasn't Jesus, it was a portrait of John, they have the same hair. It's a hidden feature, you found the "Easter Egg"

I love this idea, and I'm more of a "Reader" than most of the people I run across online. I think it's great what you're doing, and will help people start to tinker more knowing they can watch a video when they get to "hiccups." I know it's been done with other mods before, I just think that this amazing board will bring out more people who think it's "worth" their time, and the Escribe software and literature teaches us average Joe's way more about the electrical workings of a mod than we knew before.

I would call support or shoot Brandon a PM or email, I bet they can get you a screen quicker than most places. They offer AMAZING support for things like that.

I wouldn't worry about strain on the board. They're designed to be plugged/unplugged from a circuit board. RC guys have been doing it for years and they don't have issues. They swap batteries way more than we would. [/QUOTE] That's good to know, I was mostly worried about damaging that plug/board connection from swapping batteries. It's the plug's connection to the board I was worried about. It's really solid though, I'm just way too OCD about not damaging components. You're exactly right though, I'm an RC guy (used to be, vaping replaced my RC mail addiction), and that's exactly what I'm doing, using my Hyperion 0606i charger. I can swap my spare battery or balance charge my LiPo completely in 20 minutes or so, although usually I go a tad slower for the batteries longevity. It's kind of neat being an RC guy, I offered support online and moderated forums when brushless and LiPo was first becoming widely accepted in 2008, and now most vapers are new to LiPo and it's like DeJa Vu, but now there's so much more technology available

Shapeways and places like that offer milled and 3D printed components for the DNA 200, I don't know if it's for the 1590A but I think mamu has some machined enclosures on shapeways and I think xevape might have mentioned having his designs somewhere similar.

XEVape who posted above makes beautiful mods. I'm running a Litt Up Customs Model 44, it's a larger box mod with a 2000 mah battery that lasts for a very long time. Battery capacity can be compared to other batteries using watt/hrs, my 2000 mah lipo is 22.2 watt/hrs I believe. Well over a day of vaping at 80 watts with .16 ohm dual claptons, if I was running "reasonable" wattage it would definitely be 2 days for sure. I'm at ~ 24 hours right now because I charged mine in the afternoon yesterday, and I'm at 60% battery, but I slept part of that time. http://littupcustommods.com/The-44-44PINK.htm Xemods puts pretty big batteries in really tiny enclosures, and I'll probably be getting one of his small mods for my girl as soon as the vape budget will allow. She just vapes a tank, but the customization and tuning is so cool, and the vape quality so good, she's *gotta* have one as soon as I can afford it. Also I don't recommend gear best so shop around with other vendors, but there's this for a really good bargain http://www.gearbest.com/temperature-control-mods/pp_219216.html

Have you run boot camp or parallels for anything before? There's been a good bit of feedback from people who went that route and used escribe on their mac. I know you were asking about native mac software, and someone from Evolv might have some information on a general timeline, but I wanted to mention that because this chip is so nice, I really feel like anyone who passes it up will be missing out on a significant player in the vape game.

Does anyone know where one could buy a short JST-XH 3S extension cable? I'm finding them in 8 inches and longer, but I really need one two or three inches long. I swap lipos and I'm wanting to place plug/unplug strain on an extension instead of the board itself. I want to leave the balance connector where it is in the board and mod but have a replaceable extension that takes the strains of connecting/disconnecting my batteries. It's ironic that I'm looking for shorter extension cables lol.

Did you get the triton 316L temp control working? The TFR curve on steam-engine has a few points that are identical (first two and last two I believe) so I got the error when trying to load the saved CSV, or save it after manually copying and pasting the points. Once I realized it was beause it needed every point increased, I replaced a far decimal point so each point increased by like .00000001 above the other one, and that solved the issue. I haven't perfected it, but I will play with it some more in a bit. But it's working good so far, set around 430F to 440F and ~40 watts, I only used it about 30 minutes, but when I realized those points being identical was a problem, I wanted to share. I'll tinker some more after I get done working in a bit.

My results I downloaded escribe and it installed fine, then firmware flash to the device was flawless on first attempt. Windows 7 x 64. I tested the profile change in stealth mode and it's working correctly, it's now easy to see the menus to know what modes you're in without leaving stealth mode, and profile switching menus came up like you intended with the change, so everything looks good here that I tested. Oh and it still vapes when I hit the fire button

John, can you reach that knife in my back? It's in there deep. Lol sorry Brandon, I had to poke a little fun John doesn't get to deal with us much, so we have to take a few swings for him. On a serious note, both of you have truly been inspiring motivation in this industry and honestly made one of the biggest impacts on what we know today as vaping. Neither of you takes the credit you deserve, but there's a lot of us that appreciate the hell out of Evolv as a company, including you two and all of your staff. Brandon you had a vision, and did so much to make it happen. Big thanks to both of you. While I'm being all sweet, I'm really impressed with the level of customer service and communication that's gone on with the early adoption part of this testing phase. I know several of the non staff had a part in it too here on the forums, but you guys together nailed it. The innovation of the product but also the customer interaction and service you've provided even when we screw up, deserves some big appreciation and respect. Thanks guys, and sorry OP for the derailment.

Is this with a temperature control build? Were you using nickel? What's your preheat temperature and time in the profile it was using? This is very abnormal behavior so don't worry, it's not going to do this to you all the time. Once you solve what's causing it, I wake up to the mod pretty much the same way I leave it. It doesn't change at all with my daily driver Kanthal build. I'm an amateur but everything I see looks like it's showing the battery readings as normal for mostly discharged. Edit: Ninja'd by John, I should just set my internet to not work after John's hours start at 2 PM lol

https://instagram.com/p/5xDeB4AWCs/?taken-by=xevape There we go. Had to mill out the top of the case but its in there working/testing. Thank you[/QUOTE] That's a sexy little mod, I think my first from scratch build may be something along these lines, my girlfriend has very picky requirements to rock a DNA 200, she says it's gotta be small and purple or she would rather just steal mine than have her own lol, so it's a win win for me.

Joe Litt finally put his DNA 200 mods up on the site. He sold out the first batch at VaperCon west in a few hours, so they didn't make it online. This is a large mod, not for all of you. Those that don't require a tiny mod and have carried large dual 18650 boxes or some 26650 mods before, I highly recommend the Joe Litt "44". I've been running one for about 21 days, and I've been extremely impressed in the mod's build quality, components used, and the battery's quality and capacity. http://littupcustommods.com/The-44-44PINK.htm Sidenote: Many of you may recognize Joe Litt as the guy with the infamously well built DNA NES controller mods. He's truly an asset to our community, both the vapers AND the modders. In my opinion, he tries to do things the right way, even when it costs a little more. And I love seeing modders who like to "shoot the crap" with the other modders and pass information and ideas around.

If you click on "how it works" in the bottom left corner, there's a page with instructions. It helped me a lot. I just copied and pasted an excerpt "TFR and TCR If the calculator has a resistance factor by temperature table for a particular coil material, it uses that. When the selected temperature points don't correspond to the data points that are stored with the coil material, the calculator approximates them using linear interpolation. If no table is present for a material, the calculator uses the TCR to calculate the resistances."

Man this is really gonna pile the crap on thick, but although I was fortunate enough to have found the Evolv quality on my first step up from the MVP 2.0, the PBusardo video won me over just like these guys. I'm a CAD designer and steel fabricator/erector so I give engineer's quite a bit of hard time, even though (or because) I come from a family of them. But all I could think of watching Brandon and John's evolv tour video was "soon they'll have us vaping the mod version of the roller coaster and powered office chairs. And I really want an R2D2" Scoopy my opinion on this DNA 200 is that people will probably buy it for one reason and way they vape, and end up vaping differently and loving it for another set of reasons. I don't think people will realize how nice that headroom is, and how an Evolv board at 80-120 watts on kanthal feels like vaping an evolv board, until after they've gotten the device and started playing. My usage case when vaping Kanthal is probably a lot like yours, I vape at 80 - 100 watts on .16 fused claptons (dual) as my daily driver, and preferred dual 18650 mods. I'm now running a 2000 mah 3S maxamps.com lipo and it gets me through a day. I vape 6 mg so I don't vape so often that my mod never sees a coffee table or anything. I've been loving vaping on this thing so much (haven't vaped more than two pairs of 18650s in all my other box mods in the last 20 days since I got my DNA 200) that I haven't really done the monitoring and keeping track of my stats like I should, but I really want to start. Anyway, the 2000 mah LiPo gets me a whole day of vaping even when I'm vaping pretty often, and well into the second day when I'm vaping it less.

Perfect update install on Windows 7 x64 and successful board flash first try. I just successfully installed the new EScribe using the above exe and it installed perfectly. So I plugged up my DNA 200, and it notified me of the update. I chose to update the firmware, and it worked the first time, smooth as butter. So far I can only say the escribe install and firmware flash worked perfectly, and the mod seems to be working fine for the few minutes I've been vaping on the new firmware. I'll update this after vaping it a while and let you know if I find any bugs or problems with the mod while using the new firmware. So far, it's just like it should be though. James, thank you so much for providing the change logs with the update links. I know it's not at all a necessity but people like me really enjoy reading them and it gives us a better idea of things to watch for during testing.

How are you guys connecting the resistors to the board? Can it be done accurately with the resistor bank run through the 510 connection or is it being hooked up instead of a 510 for testing?

Others will chime in with much better information, but I can tell you what I've learned about the two features you mentioned. The battery analyzer test runs and discharges the battery from 100% fully charged to find out exactly what the battery's watt/hr rating is (which is how capacity is measured as opposed to just going by the mah to compare lipos and 18650's) and it's discharge curve and I believe cell balance throughout the entire discharge curve. The battery analyzer likely will give data on the battery's internal resistance, but I'm not familiar with how to equate it with the the rest of the connections etc. The case analyzer is used to determine how the board mounting and the case being used dissipates heat from the board. You probably already know those things above and that's the easy part, below I'm just speculating below and looking forward to John's answer, as his engineer mind and IQ combine to make my intelligence look like I'm from peopleofwalmart.com and my elevator doesn't go all the way to the top. I know what you're looking for when you talk about the mod's internal resistance, you're meaning something similar to how a battery has a slight bit of internal resistance, but in all the joints and connections and electronics, and I think you're looking to see where it shows up in the mod like voltage drop in a mech mod kind of, to find if there's an abnormal bottleneck. The board is reading resistance at the 510 connection itself and if wiring is adequate, I'm thinking this internal resistance should be irrelevant as long as power settings are within spec, because the board is going to compensate to get the delivery/readings at the 510 correct. John or the other evolv guy that are on the electronic engineering side (sorry Brandon, you're probably good for a few things too lol) will probably have such a good answer, I'll edit whatever turns out to be incorrect.

I'm running this maxamps.com 2000 mah 3S LiPo pack, and while it's less than the 25.2, it's got 22.2 watt hours, and a "lifetime" warranty. In one year they replace it for free if it dies, anytime after that they give you a replacement for 50% of its price. http://www.maxamps.com/proddetail.php?prod=Lipo-2000-111-Pack It gets me through the day, but I plan to purchase another one for backups and so I can just swap and throw one on my external lipo charger.[/QUOTE][/QUOTE] What enclosure are you using that looks like it would fit in a 1590 b maybe a g I like it[/QUOTE] I'm using a 1590 b I'm pretty sure, it's a pretty good sized mod, not for people who want the tiniest possible device. But for me, it's just right. I measured the box to double check, and it looks like it's a 1590b although it's really late and I'm tired. Oh one more thing, my mod is the Joe Litt model 44, and it's got a trim peace/spacer (3D Printed) on the battery door which adds a tiny bit more space. When I get a chance I'll double check that's the right box, and give you more detailed battery space info with how mine is set up, I'll take pictures of it.

I'm running this maxamps.com 2000 mah 3S LiPo pack, and while it's less than the 25.2, it's got 22.2 watt hours, and a "lifetime" warranty. In one year they replace it for free if it dies, anytime after that they give you a replacement for 50% of its price. http://www.maxamps.com/proddetail.php?prod=Lipo-2000-111-Pack It gets me through the day, but I plan to purchase another one for backups and so I can just swap and throw one on my external lipo charger.

I'm totally just throwing out possibilities based on things I've seen in the past, and I don't know what kind of 510 connection so this may all be worthless, but in case it helps, here's my brainfart session ideas. It could be that the 510 pin (if it's a spring loaded or floating pin) is getting pushed down far enough that the positive pin (in female 510 connection on mod side) is squishing it into a bind with the insulator, or if it's not a tension thing but a depth thing causing it, it's possible that the positive wire that runs to the 510 center pin (If it's one with a floating 510 like the fat daddy and varitube connectors) being pushed to a certain point puts that connection in a bind or something. One other idea is that if it's a spring loaded 510, maybe the spring being compressed is just enough to cause those readings when it's tight, I'm thinking my first thought about the pin quishing into the insulator is more likely though.