VapingBad

/topic/67978-topic/

Looks nice, but I hope they built in reverse battery protection.

I have submitted a link to this thread to the community DNA200 Related Resources list from MikePetro.

So it was due to the dodgy battery then? I tried another LI-PO, just connected the balance lead and the negative and positive right up with electrical tape-it was an old Li-Po, but it would fire at low wattage, so I know it is the batteries now, not the fuse. I was glad it wasn't the fuse blown, I was scared of that. I have to wait for up to a MONTH for the free battery to come-I think I am getting a turniguy Lipo and going to use that for now, 850MAH 45C-90C, and I can afford it, so at least I will be able to use my device. If it doesn't work with a new battery-it's the actual DNA setup itself. I would then have to wait for gearbest to change it, and being my most expensive mod it is quite annoying. At least I have 12 others to use to pass the time lol![/QUOTE] I couldn't say if the battery affects it, but I would not be surprised if it did when it was very very low.

Maybe a dry solder joint or dirty pin on the balance connector.

Have you got the watt hours set correctly in the mod tab in Escribe or messed with the battery curve?

It is not the fuse, it wouldn't fire at all if it was. I don't know of anyone using zinc flux and I would think it would damage the board, I would stick to normal electronics solder you get from Maplins or similar. You need to be tidy soldering the battery leads especially don't get any solder on the 3 small holes near the positive connection and don't keep the heat on for long. I would fit a pair of XT30 connectors if you have room to save having to solder changing the battery, you can get them from StealthVape, ModMaker.co.uk and eBay. I wouldn't use insulating tape either myself.

At worst you may need to do a manual fw update from the tools menu if it doesn't update normally.

Go to the install folder C:\Users\YourUserName\AppData\Roaming\Evolv\EScribe\Languages and copy the EScribe.po file from the en folder to the Dutch folder, you should probably make a copy of the Dutch one in case you want to go back.

I should be near a volt, it is a reference voltage in the circuit and if it is too far out will affect the accuracy form what I glean 50 mV out is acceptable.

http://allaboute-cigarettes.proboards.com/post/1012413/thread

Cell 1 is too low for it to operate properly, I would charge the battery on an external charger if you have one, I doubt there is any risk charging with USB but just don't know 100%. Then see what it is doing with a charged battery.

I found a better way with just a 6.3 mm copper rod, a copper or brass M7x0.5 bolt would be better and instead of 80% of 0.010 ohm I now get 0.004 ohm reading from that mod, the pic shows 0.005 but twisting it into the thread it goes as low as 0.004 and you should always use the lowest reading. Always set the mod res to 0 before doing this.

Or the low tech way with a 6.3 mm copper rod (always set it to zero before doing this), if you screw the copper bar in it goes down to 0.004 do this and use the lowest number.

Your prompt idea is better than the setting idea James . One of these edge cases that come up once you work is in the wild.

It is not impossible there is some life in the 6 year old battery if it has never gone flat and kept a a mild temperature, but that is very old for one and I would not expect much from it.

Yes

6 years it is almost certainly knackered mate regardless of charge cycles, IIWU I would battle on with your current battery until the replacement arrives, but to replace I would go for the FullyMax Evolv sell, I think vapegeek.co.uk are getting some in the UK next month, or HobbyKing Turnegy 950 mAh which are an OK cheap battery, but some reports of them coming with faults.

Might be worth having a VM setting James that doubles or triples the time-outs with an info pop up before enabling.

Digital try chasing them on facebook or a forum where they are active, they have a customer service rep on AAE-C who is very nice and helpful.

Don't forget to change the USB current in Device Monitor - Diagnostics - Set USB Current Limit or it will start charging. And change it back after you're done.

Have you update the firmware since getting it? The very first batches of boards went out with pro-production firmware that the manufactures and resellers should have updated to a release version and that had an issue that could discharge the batteries, but it shouldn't have go out into the wild.

That sounds fine, the cut-off is under load voltage and LiPo have very little charge left under 3.5 V so would charge up to that in very little time. You can always put the cell voltages on the custom display fields or hook it up to device monitor turning the USB current down to 0 and watch exactly what happens.

Good work BRD, a small one off the to of my head, maybe also about the area around the USB getting hot if you try and charge with a blown fuse, but can't think hoe to phrase it ATM. The custom fields I chose to display while charging do not display: Check the screen brightness is greater than 0% for charging in Escribe, they only display when in idle about 30 seconds after connecting the cable.