VapingBad

I don't like deleting or moderating posts so can we please keep it civil, even if another post got your back up.

Do the math for the particular battery (9-12.6 V & 23 A), but as far as I know most car batteries will hold voltages above 12.6 V so you probably need voltage regulators at least.

OP did say it was a VT133 as well, I only have 3 cell DNA200 so I must have just tuned that out and it just didn't occur to me until I saw the screen shot.

Cheers, it said 5.96 V in device monitor, but it don't help the guy unless he has a 3 cell DNA as well.

I think it may be hitting a 6 V limit for 2 cell operation, I have not seen that specified, but it's 9 V for 3 cells so seems logical to me.

Blakey reckons it works great in temp mode on a DNA 200 see post 10 http://allaboute-cigarettes.proboards.com/thread/62255/krixus-re-wickable-tank-vaping I know him personally and he knows what's what so I have no doubt it can.

You don't need to do anything other than set the watts it will sense it is not a temp limiting coil, if you want you can turn off temp limiting in a profile or by setting the temp past 600 F, but you don't need to.

Make sure you have live ohms, temp and power checked. BTW turning preheat down is more likely to cause dropping out of temp limiting if it is taking too long to get up to temp than turning it up is.

I was not blaming the coil manufacture, just suggesting you ask them for the settings as they will have the most data on the coil. Without a device manager screen shot of it doing it I have nothing to go on. 75 W should be fine up to about 1.15 ohm and the only thing I could think of is it dropping out of temp mode because the temp doesn't raise by 150 F in the first second, but if the res is still less than an ohm as you say I don't see why you would get the warning then.

No, but you didn't say originally, sorry you did and I missed it. I have not used this atty so can give no specific advise, maybe see if the manufacture has a forum or contact their customer services if ther is no info on the www. Failing that I would vape it while attached to Device Monitor to see if you can capture what is happening when you get the warning, hit pause and post the screen shot.

If you look at the power graphs on the data sheet you see that temp sensing coils of 0.37 ohms should go up to just over 110 W, in power mode coils of 0.6 ohm should go up to about 145 W. I would expect the message if you going above these numbers. http://evolvapor.com/datasheet/dna200.pdf

Temp control is working fine for me with 0.03 ohm base res, and this is only a bog standard Rolo with dual 26 AWG Ni200 coils, preheat = 200 W punch = 11 t = 2 s. I know the TCR is x 6 so delta r is X 3 because the res is less than half, but I don't think a YiHi would regulate as smoothly as a DNA, not any of the SX350J family anyway. I just don't have anything with a TCR that low that I could build a 0.07 ohm coils from so this is the closest demo I can do.

You just need to set the wire material if it is a single metal, set Ni if it is Kanthal or Nichrome and it will be automatic. To change material lock (5 clicks on fire) then hold all 3 buttons down for a few seconds. If it is mixed material you need to make a custom csv on SteamEngine.

That was Nick's and it was a proper PSU in an ammo box. There are 2 ways to do this either permanently attach to a 12 V 23+ amp PSU with nothing connected to the balance pins and EScribe set to PSU. Or Leave the settings in EScribe as battery, attach to a 12 V 23+ amp PSU with a resistor across each pair of balance connections (GND-1, 1-2 & 2-3) to mimic the cell voltages and connect the outer 2 balance connections to the main power.

If you are not using the full capacity I would set the battery to Max Recharges in EScribe, as Mike said not fully charging and discharging extend it's life, but not fully charging is a bit more effective and can double the working life of the battery.

Escribe - Tools - Firmware Update It should take you to a folder where all the previous versions you have downloaded are.

If you are vaping at 200 W maybe set the preheat time to zero, logically if you don't have it with punch = 11 and power = 200 W it may slow down the ramp up. I would try both maxing the preheat and turning it off in your very special case.

The V2 Aromamizer has a more conventional metal airflow control ring Steve, I love the V1 and got a V2 on order they are soooo easy to rewick with horizontal coils and excellent flavour IMO.

You can set the USB current to zero in DM, under Diagnostics.

You would need to alter the wiring as well, there is a big thread on 2 x 18650 opperation.

lol phone support, Mrs Bad doesn't vape, but she does use a computer, a Smart TV, a car and many other technical things. My favourite one was a call about all the text in a report she was writing in Word disappeared. I could just hear a fast clicking noise in the background and said "do you have something resting on the space bar?", "oh yes my folder", "take it off and press [ctrl][z]".

https://www.modparts.co.uk/smartblog/11_DNA75-Incoming.html http://www.modparts.co.uk/boards/381-evolv-dna75-0638183554951.html http://www.stealthvape.co.uk/EVOLV-DNA75 This is nothing official, I know nothing more than what is on the net.

It is doing what it's meant to constantly the temp on screen, of course if you are vaping at the temp limit there is not much to see.

You do not get any extra current by putting batteries in series. In series the current remains the same (as the lowest) and the voltage is summed. In parallel the voltage remains the same and the current is summed. Are you confusing input and output current ratings? Input current <= 23 A Output current <= 50 A (55 A peak)

Because the cells are in series it is the continuous current of each cell that is important you cannot add the current capabilities it is the voltage that is summed in series. Forget going by pulse current rating unless the manufactures pulse spec is for more than 20 seconds and even then I would never advise going by the pulse rating.