VapingBad

You can run the full wattage range, the batteries don't care what ohms you are running. Nothing toxic from Ni at vaping temps, especially using temp protection, wich and liquid are more likely to be an issue IMO, but they are still extremely unlikely to be an issue. It will only degrade if you dry fire until it glows bright and even then it's far far better than SS or Ti, I do dry burn Ni, just not really bright. I really like using Ni twisted, may favourite is 3x 0.2 mm strands, it handles more power, has better flavour, more reliable than clapton style coils plus makes it stiffer and easier to rewick.

Try downloading the latest version of EScribe (link in my foOter) and forcing a service pack (fw) update.

I run 0.05 ohm builds all the time, IDK where that 0.1 ohm spec came from, not Evolv I think.

You could use a serial port app with usbotg that wouldn't be able to edit profiles, preheat or materials.

I have never used one, but IIRC a large part of the issue was the coils had Ni200 legs, IDK if that is still the case, but if it is that would give it a strange TCR and a time delay sensing temp. In general though I have never found preheat makes a difference to temp protection with stainless steel in any of the profiles I have tried, but if that does have Ni legs I spose it is possible.

Any good quality 2.1 A or higher USB supply from a reputable distributor as there are fakes about.

The only thing I can thing of is it is the wrong way round.

I have never seen that before, maybe someone else can shed some light on it.

So Battery - Pack is 0.0 V in Device Monitor?

You should get as much as you did before the message came up, the most likely causes are connections issue, seems like the board is getting a different resistance reading after things get warm. Try checking the connections, make sure the coil loops are slightly spaced and if it continues post some more details and a screen shot of it doing this in Device Monitor.

Could be poor battery connection causing an excessive voltage sag under load, you should be able to see that firing while connected to Device Monitor.

Yes, the resistance increases with temperature and takes a little while to cool and go down again.

It is normal to get that message, it's info and not an error or warning and you can turn it off in EScribe if you want. You said "and it barely hits" do you mean that you are getting less vapour at this point or something else?

If that is the one where the outer of the 510 unscrews take that off and clean the threads, if that is the one with one or two screws next to the battery cap check they are snug. It is almost certainly a ground problem just a case of checking, cleaning and tightening connection points.

Even bullets are hard to fit due to there length and how short you would need to make the battery leads. I have done 4 of these and soldered the battery directly to the board, I put some kapton tape over the underside of the balance connections so I don't short them fitting the board, you can also put some kapton around the inside of the case if you want.

Yeah 0.33 ohm max for 250 W.

Yes, IMO some headroom is the USB Power supply is beneficial, so from your choices probably the 2.1 A, but you will see some voltage drop between the supply and the DNA the best I get is just over 9.5 W. The cable makes a lot of difference and generally shorter is better, have USB power as a charging field to pick the best PSU + cable, also not charge rate will reduce if the board get hot and charge rate is limited to 1 C.

Either Thomasck

Sounds like a ground issue and you have been doing all the right things, I was suggesting the body could oxidise where the 510 screw in and it may be worth checking.

Ground to the 510 and battery?

I think the amp rating advice is with parallel cells is just sensible stuff not pushing the weakest cell too far and allowing for wiring loss and nothing to do with the physics. The main truths are cells in parallel will all be at the same voltage and cells in series will all be at the same current, so the weakest cell in parallel could get too high current demand and the weakest in series would be at a lower voltage.

Batteries store energy. The first law of thermodynamics doesn't say anything about series or parallel, energy is, you cannot create or destroy it, only convert it. Wh vs Ah, Wh just takes the combined cell voltage out of the equation, they are the same thing, but wh makes it far easier to compare different set ups. You can't hold chunky responsible for bad info you read or misread, sorry if that comes over harsh I'm sure you are a good guy but...

I got a bit too interested in just checking different coils cleaning methods with a USB microscope good job I don't have access to that.

Very impressive results, it is average temp across the coil. SS is the most challenging so your results would only get better, if you are of a mind to play about it may be interesting to see if coils dimensions or resistance have much effect, but only if you want to. What I think is one of the most important things is how stable it sits at a temperature as wire grades could vary in TCR. As for seeming cool, it could be you got used to a mod that regulates less smoothly and/or you need more contact area between the coils and wick (6 turns at 450 F make more vapour than 5), it could also be airflow or wicking, but you would probably spotted those straight away. Interesting post Swerved

You need a resistance less then or equal to 0.5 ohm to get full power, for 40 W you should be able to use 0.9 ohm. It is the output voltage limit of 6.2 V that determines the max res at any power setting, there is a graph in the specsheet or you can calculate by (6.2 * 6.2)/power.